What's new
Old Chevelles

Welcome to OldChevelles.com, built by Auto Enthusiasts for Auto Enthusiasts. Cars are not our only interests so please feel free to post about any subject the community might enjoy or you just feel you need to air.

We respect free speech and constructive dialogue however we don't allow threatening talk against members, nudity, or pornography. Threads are monitored and trolls are not tolerated.

This site is completely free and there are no costs. Please enjoy and provide feedback.
  • We've enabled the website app for anyone who wants to use it on a mobile or desktop device.

  • We've changed the header logo to display our Member's Cars.

    If you'd like your car to show up there, go to the forum Site Bugs & Feature Requests and post your image in the "Member's Car Pictures for the Header Logo" and we'll add your car into the lineup.

Gas Tank Sending Unit

Chevelle_Nut

Shop Foreman
I picked up a new sending unit from Ausley's Chevelle on the way home last night. To my surprise they had it cheaper than what I could get it for online at that Jungle Website.
 
Well, back to Ausley's tomorrow, I bought a 2 tube sending unit, should have bought a 1 tube.

I rigged up an electric fuel pump and hose, made wires to attach to my boat battery and pumped the tank dry before taking it down. Tank came down easy

When I pulled the old sender out, the pickup filter fell off. I tested the old one with a meter, yup it is bad. I don't remember where I got that one, it has been years.
 
Just to tag on, I am going to restore my 67 gas tank. I know replacements are cheap so this is more an exercise in DIY rather than a sensible decision.
I always thought I’d just replace it so when I pulled it I just leaned it against the shed and due to exposure to the elements it’s got a little spot of pitting on the side that was sitting in the dirt. But when I pulled the sending unit, it is actually very clean inside. After making sure there are no fumes inside (gas was emptied about 2 years ago) I’m gonna use a stud welder to pull a couple of little dents. Wire brush the outside to get rid of surface rust. Throw some welds or braze the pitted areas. Clean the inside and coat it.
Just got figure out how to test the sending unit to see if it works or needs to be replaced.

Not sure if I should use a product like Eastwood gas tank paint or not on the exterior. Heard mixed things about it.
 
Just to tag on, I am going to restore my 67 gas tank. I know replacements are cheap so this is more an exercise in DIY rather than a sensible decision.
I always thought I’d just replace it so when I pulled it I just leaned it against the shed and due to exposure to the elements it’s got a little spot of pitting on the side that was sitting in the dirt. But when I pulled the sending unit, it is actually very clean inside. After making sure there are no fumes inside (gas was emptied about 2 years ago) I’m gonna use a stud welder to pull a couple of little dents. Wire brush the outside to get rid of surface rust. Throw some welds or braze the pitted areas. Clean the inside and coat it.
Just got figure out how to test the sending unit to see if it works or needs to be replaced.

Not sure if I should use a product like Eastwood gas tank paint or not on the exterior. Heard mixed things about it.
Hook an ohm meter to the sending unit, the values will move up and down accordingly. When on empty settings should be in the teens, when full close to 99
 
When I removed my tank the sending unit looked brand new but I had never driven the car to see how the gage was working. I bought a new tank for the car with the intentions of using the sending unit that was in the old tank. What I did was I tested the sender outside of the tank hooking up the brown wire to it and grounding it also. I then turned the ignition on and and moved the sender float arm from the empty position to approximately the 1/4 level, then 1/2, then 3/4, and then full. As I was doing this I was checking the gage at the same time and it responded closely at each level so I used it.
 
Just to tag on, I am going to restore my 67 gas tank. I know replacements are cheap so this is more an exercise in DIY rather than a sensible decision.
I always thought I’d just replace it so when I pulled it I just leaned it against the shed and due to exposure to the elements it’s got a little spot of pitting on the side that was sitting in the dirt. But when I pulled the sending unit, it is actually very clean inside. After making sure there are no fumes inside (gas was emptied about 2 years ago) I’m gonna use a stud welder to pull a couple of little dents. Wire brush the outside to get rid of surface rust. Throw some welds or braze the pitted areas. Clean the inside and coat it.
Just got figure out how to test the sending unit to see if it works or needs to be replaced.

Not sure if I should use a product like Eastwood gas tank paint or not on the exterior. Heard mixed things about it.

That eastwood paint is bogus overpriced generic spray paint. The one tank I wound up reusing I cleaned up as best as I could & sprayed some rustoleum metallic silver on the top. On the bottom & sides where it was visible, I sanded with 320, 400, & 600. Then I sprayed it with clear from a gun. Light coats so it didn't appear too glossy. Held up for years til I sold the car. The new owner said it looked good while he still had it as well.
 
Put 10 gallons in the tank, registering about 1/2 tank, need to take her out and fill it up, probably will do that on Sunday.
 
That eastwood paint is bogus overpriced generic spray paint. The one tank I wound up reusing I cleaned up as best as I could & sprayed some rustoleum metallic silver on the top.
I saw on the internet that it was a paint high in zinc and that a good, cheap substitute was “shiny galvanizing” spray paint which is sold at hardware stores to paint chain link fences. Might buy a can and try that out.
I think the Eastwood paint costs $15 which is not terrible if it works ok, but my guess is that it might take 2 cans to do an entire tank (just a guess) and $30 isn’t cheap.

When you said you painted with clear from a gun, are you talking about a catalyzed paint? Does it need to be catalyzed to hold up to gas spills?
 
I saw on the internet that it was a paint high in zinc and that a good, cheap substitute was “shiny galvanizing” spray paint which is sold at hardware stores to paint chain link fences. Might buy a can and try that out.
I think the Eastwood paint costs $15 which is not terrible if it works ok, but my guess is that it might take 2 cans to do an entire tank (just a guess) and $30 isn’t cheap.

When you said you painted with clear from a gun, are you talking about a catalyzed paint? Does it need to be catalyzed to hold up to gas spills?

Yes it was 2K automotive clear like you'd spray for a BC/CC paint job. It held up really well & didn't yellow. I wouldn't trust rattle can clear to hold up to gas spills or not to yellow.

A friend used that Eastwood tank-tone & it looks really cheesy when compared to bare metal tank. It might contain zinc, but I doubt it would make a difference in longevity compared to can of Krylon silver metallic or dull aluminum.
 
Top Bottom