What's new
Old Chevelles

Welcome to OldChevelles.com, built by Auto Enthusiasts for Auto Enthusiasts. Cars are not our only interests so please feel free to post about any subject the community might enjoy or you just feel you need to air.

We respect free speech and constructive dialogue however we don't allow threatening talk against members, nudity, or pornography. Threads are monitored and trolls are not tolerated.

This site is completely free and there are no costs. Please enjoy and provide feedback.
  • We've enabled the website app for anyone who wants to use it on a mobile or desktop device.

  • We've changed the header logo to display our Member's Cars.

    If you'd like your car to show up there, go to the forum Site Bugs & Feature Requests and post your image in the "Member's Car Pictures for the Header Logo" and we'll add your car into the lineup.

Bolero red 67

Thanks. So just to be clear.
Sand out the area of the bug feathering it out. Then flatten the clear on the whole panel.
Then spot seal and spot base the defect area but not the whole panel.
Then clear the whole panel

But doesn’t the area that I spot spray base have a risk if it slightly overlaps the area of the spot sealer? And if I spray base on a smaller area to make sure the base is only on top of sealer, then the sealer will show. Hope that makes sense.

Thanks for the advice. Always willing to learn and never expected to not have some mistakes to fix.
I’ve already decided there is a pretty good chance I’ll have to sand flat the clear on the exterior of the trunk lid and respray since the orange peel is pretty bad. But I’ll sand it first and seen where that gets me.
 
Thanks. So just to be clear.
Sand out the area of the bug feathering it out. Then flatten the clear on the whole panel.
Then spot seal and spot base the defect area but not the whole panel.
Then clear the whole panel

Yep.

But doesn’t the area that I spot spray base have a risk if it slightly overlaps the area of the spot sealer? And if I spray base on a smaller area to make sure the base is only on top of sealer, then the sealer will show. Hope that makes sense.

Nope. You need the sealer otherwise the feathered edges will most likely bubble or "caterpillar" as I call it. Spot seal the area covering and going over the CC (past the feather edges), then shoot the BC blending that in, let it flash off, then clear the whole panel.
 
You can seal it with clear, but you have to wait an hour minimum, then spot repair your base, and clear as discussed.
 
So just to make sure I'm clear.... the risk of lifting is when the base is sprayed over the feathered edge of the clear right? Base itself over clear is fine, just not a feathered edge?

So for example, I've got a bug or other defect 1/2 cm wide. I sand with a block and feather than area several inches wider than the actual defect, say 4 inches diameter.
I block the whole panel's clear coat flat and spot seal the feathered area perhaps 5 inches (in my case tinted, reduced epoxy). Then spot the base a little wider still so that I don't risk having the sealer not fully covered. They clear the whole panel again?

Do I finally have that right? Thanks for your advice and patience.

What final grit would you recommend on the sanded, flattened clear before spraying more clear?
 
Top Bottom