How To Measure Your Car’s FRONT Wheel/Tire Wells

[Kirk’s67SS]

This may or may not help with the FRONT Wheel/Tire Combos

On BOTH sides of your Car's Front Wheel Wells

1. Measure the Height Room you have from your current Wheel/Tire Combo at Full Turn
Top of Tire to the Wheel Well Underside Fender Lip
Driverside = ??" ///// Passengerside = ??"
2. Measure any Width Room between the Tie Rods/Frame Suspension Parts and the Side of the Tire
Driverside = ??" ///// Passengerside = ??"

If using the same Wheel Diameter / Width / BackSpace then just Compare
the New Tire's Width difference with your Old Tire's Width = ??"

Compare the Differences of your Current Tire Height and Width
with the New Tire Height and Width
Divide by 2
EG. Height - 26" less 28" = 2" / = 1" Room needed at the Top plus allow for some Upward Suspension Movement
if/when you hit a Bump, Curb or Pot Hole
EG. Width - 7.9" less 6.9" = 1" / = .50" Room needed at Side of Tire to not Rub on Stuff
also allow for Side Wall Flex when driving and Turning at Max

 

[Derek69SS]

The front is a challenge because there are a lot of factors that effect your clearances. There's far more variability in the front depending on ride height, static alignment, and also the geometry of the front end whether you're using stock spindle or tall spindle/tall balljoint to correct the camber curve.

Cars with corrected camber curve and a lot of static camber can run much wider tires and really tight clearances.
Stock geometry pushes the top of the tire OUT when the suspension is compressed, corrected geometry pulls it IN when compressed.

I'm running 295/35/18 on 10.5" wheels up front, on a really low car with AFX tall spindle and -2.5deg static camber... sounds crazy but it works.
I tried 315/30/18 on 11" wheel, but it limited turning radius too much when the inner bead rubbed the lower A-arm.