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9 Rules for Improving Engine Cooling System Capability in Hi-Per Autos

Kirk’s67SS

Active Member
Senior Member
This might be a good read
https://www.enginebasics.com/Engine Basics Root Folder/Engine Cooling.html
9 Rules for Improving Engine Cooling System Capability in High-Perf Autos

Produced by the National Automotive Radiator Association (NARSA) and by Richard F. Crook, Transpro, Inc.

- RULE # 1 -Anything you can do to increase the coolant flow rate, within limits described, will improve heat transfer and cooling performance.
Anything you do to restrict or reduce the coolant flow rate will hurt cooling performance

- RULE #2- Anything you can do to improve airflow through the radiator core will help. Anything that blocks or slows airflow,
either before or after the radiator, will hurt.

- RULE - #3 Increasing the face area of the radiator by making the radiator larger will help.
Relocating other heat exchangers that were in front of the radiator in order to expose more radiator face area to ambient cooling air will also help.

- RULE- #4 Increasing the fin count may help, but it may hurt. Increasing the count above 16 fins per inch will almost always hurt.

- RULE- #5 A plate fin radiator and a serpentine fin radiator of the same fin count, tube size, tube rows, face area, core depth, etc.,
will have the same heat transfer performance. However, serpentine fin radiators can be made with higher fin counts,
sometimes resulting in improved performance.

- RULE-#6 Louvered fins provide greatly improved heat transfer with some increase in cooling air restriction.

Changing from a non-louvered radiator to a louvered radiator core almost always improves heat transfer performance.

- RULE- #7 Adding a row of tubes may help, but it may hurt by increasing cooling air restriction and reducing the coolant flow rate in the tubes.
If the cooling airflow has been increased over the original installation, adding a row or two will probably help in this situation.
Increasing the number of rows beyond 4 in a louvered fin core will almost always hurt.

- RULE- #8 Adding two rows of tubes without increasing the coolant flow rate

(Bigger pump or turning the old pump faster) will probably reduce performance because of low coolant flow rate in the tubes.
Reducing the tube size or going to dimple tubes may help.
Increasing the coolant flow rate will surely help.

- RULE- #9 For maximum heat transfer performance in warm climates, use water as a coolant with an additive
to provide a corrosion inhibitor and water pump lubricant.

For winter service, use a 50/50 water to ethylene glycol coolant solution that includes corrosion inhibitors and a pump lubricant.
 
Nice write up. I have a battle that some can relate to....my cars sit, and sit. I've had 2 recent big blocks that had corrosion evident in the coolant system. I maintain the coolant, but I believe ph is the culprit. If you see signs of corrosion, any degree of brown in the green coolant, here's a good fix. First, test the ph, anything below 7 is a potential problem. Drain the coolant from the radiator, then remove a side block drain and notice the rate of flow, and the color. Chances are good that the flow rate from the block will be slow with corrosion present. I've had them actually plugged and had to pick at the sediment to allow the block to drain. If they are this bad, you may want to consider popping the block freeze plugs and doing a thorough clean. My last 396 sat for quite a few years on a fresh rebuild and good coolant, but still managed to rot the steel freeze plugs and clot the drains. Flushing in virtually every direction, revers, side to side, and straight, can get most of the crud out. Once you see clear water released in the flush, reinstall plugs and fill with new coolant. I now use a coolant system stablizer in all my rides.
 

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What about the Red Long Life Coolant? I know the green and gold are not very good for diesels so many of us use red, will that help with the PH issues?
 
Here's some light reading....bottom line, stick with whatever your system was designed for and what you've been using.

 
In my experience, always start with a good radiator and an aluminum with two rows of 1.25" tubes is an excellent start.
Then just use a factory shroud, the factory 7 blade fan with a good clutch, and a 160 to 180 hi-flow thermostat and you're set.
 
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