Pete 67
Well-Known Member
It was fun removing them while contorting my body into a very awkward position while the cordless screwdriver kept slipping.
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- Thread starter Pete 67
- Start date
It was fun removing them while contorting my body into a very awkward position while the cordless screwdriver kept slipping.
kmakar
Janitor
Imagine the poor bastard who had to put those in with a regular flathead screwdriver.... before screw guns came out I can't tell you how many times I gashed my fingers when the screwdriver slipped.
Pete 67
Well-Known Member
When I got the car up to Vegas, it was obvious the entire floor needed to be replaced. Was equally clear that block sanding the roof & detailing the under carriage would be much easier if I could spin the car upside down. With that in mind I began scouring Craigslist in search of a rotisserie. Local Vegas CL is pretty much a wasteland when it comes to old car parts & much of anything else, so I always expand my search to most of the Southwest.
I found a few promising ads, but either my work schedule wasn't cooperative or the sellers were asking $1500 for decent rotisseries. A few weeks after getting the car up here, I spot one in Phoenix being advertised for $750. Things line up & I take a road trip to pick it up. After a a lot of friendly BSing with the seller & little haggling, I talk him down to $650. He helps me load it up & I'm on my way back to Vegas. Took me 7 hours & about $100 in gas, but it was totally worth it.
About a month after that, the body is ready to come off the frame so we bring it back down to my buddy's shop to make use of the lift again. After removing the doors, I almost lost a finger trying to remove the tension spring of the tailgate.
Note to self, read the manual or ask in advance before removing a tailgate. 
Pretty soon it was time to lift the body off, mount it to the rotisserie, & send it on its way to the media blaster.
When it got to the blaster, I realized I forgot to remove & document this Fisher Body tag that was in place under the headliner.
A few days later the owner of the blast shop sent me some updates. A few surprises in the qtrs, but not much damage to speak of. Everything else was rust free & in great shape. After these pics, he blasted away the thin layer of filler.
Here she is ready for the ride home.
I found a few promising ads, but either my work schedule wasn't cooperative or the sellers were asking $1500 for decent rotisseries. A few weeks after getting the car up here, I spot one in Phoenix being advertised for $750. Things line up & I take a road trip to pick it up. After a a lot of friendly BSing with the seller & little haggling, I talk him down to $650. He helps me load it up & I'm on my way back to Vegas. Took me 7 hours & about $100 in gas, but it was totally worth it.
About a month after that, the body is ready to come off the frame so we bring it back down to my buddy's shop to make use of the lift again. After removing the doors, I almost lost a finger trying to remove the tension spring of the tailgate.
Note to self, read the manual or ask in advance before removing a tailgate. Pretty soon it was time to lift the body off, mount it to the rotisserie, & send it on its way to the media blaster.
When it got to the blaster, I realized I forgot to remove & document this Fisher Body tag that was in place under the headliner.
A few days later the owner of the blast shop sent me some updates. A few surprises in the qtrs, but not much damage to speak of. Everything else was rust free & in great shape. After these pics, he blasted away the thin layer of filler.
Here she is ready for the ride home.
Pete 67
Well-Known Member
I don't feel bad for him...he should've found a better way to repair that area to begin with!
Pete 67
Well-Known Member
The day the flatbed picked up the body for the ride home, I dropped off the rest of the body parts, fenders, hood, etc. About a week later I had them all back in my garage with the body shell. The blaster did an awesome job. Did the inside & outside of every panel with the exception of the inside of the hood skin & the inside of the roof. I was thrilled with the work, worth every penny of the $1500 (that prices includes the frame) he charged. Another guy in town quoted me $1400 just to blast the outside of the shell without any panels or the frame.
Here's what I have to work with.
Mud in the qtrs was thin, other than the area near the bumper. They got crunched a little when the car was hit in the tailgate.
Door jambs & rear floors are nice & clean. Although the rear cargo floor looks like it had a tough life. It was fun trying to get that straightened up.
Both fenders & the passenger door, & the hood could be NOS.
Drivers door had a little parking lot damage, but nothing major.
You can see how careful the blaster was on the inside of the hood.
Here's a better look at the damage to the spare tire well.
Here's what I have to work with.
Mud in the qtrs was thin, other than the area near the bumper. They got crunched a little when the car was hit in the tailgate.
Door jambs & rear floors are nice & clean. Although the rear cargo floor looks like it had a tough life. It was fun trying to get that straightened up.
Both fenders & the passenger door, & the hood could be NOS.
Drivers door had a little parking lot damage, but nothing major.
You can see how careful the blaster was on the inside of the hood.
Here's a better look at the damage to the spare tire well.
Pete 67
Well-Known Member
The tailgate was pretty rough from the collision, too beat up for my meager body skills. Luckily, my dad happened to be passing through Vegas right after I got it back from blasting, so he was kind enough to take it home to work his magic. I have to say he's a much better body man than he is a photographer.
This is what he started with. You can see there's a bunch of holes someone drilled to pull with a slide hammer.
He welded them up & used his pry tools & stud gun to pull the panel straighter.
In Vegas, I started on the other panels.
After spraying epoxy on everything but the shell, I began metal working on the drivers door. It had some minor parking lot dings & other small issues that looked like it was from the factory. It barely needed a skim coat of finishing glaze in a few spots when I was done.
Here's the passenger fender & door in epoxy
Since there are about 8-10 holes all over the car that were punched out from the installs of a Chapman lock & a dealer added A/C unit, I bought two packs of round sheetmetal plugs from Speedway that come in different sizes & thicknesses.
Here's the drivers fender welded up & ground down from the backside. I either neglected to take a pic of the outside or I can't seem to find it.
Too late now, the fender has been primed & blocked. First with epoxy, then poly primer.
Same thing with the hood.
In the meantime, my dad dropped off the tailgate & I primed & blocked it as well.
The primed & blocked passenger fender & door pics are nowhere to be found, but rest assured, they are in the same stage as the others. They required minimal effort to get them straight. With that said, all the unboltable panels are ready for final urethane priming. Can't believe I'm saying this, but the body work had been a breeze thus far. It felt like cheating to have panels this nice.
This is what he started with. You can see there's a bunch of holes someone drilled to pull with a slide hammer.
He welded them up & used his pry tools & stud gun to pull the panel straighter.
In Vegas, I started on the other panels.
After spraying epoxy on everything but the shell, I began metal working on the drivers door. It had some minor parking lot dings & other small issues that looked like it was from the factory. It barely needed a skim coat of finishing glaze in a few spots when I was done.
Here's the passenger fender & door in epoxy
Since there are about 8-10 holes all over the car that were punched out from the installs of a Chapman lock & a dealer added A/C unit, I bought two packs of round sheetmetal plugs from Speedway that come in different sizes & thicknesses.
Here's the drivers fender welded up & ground down from the backside. I either neglected to take a pic of the outside or I can't seem to find it.
Too late now, the fender has been primed & blocked. First with epoxy, then poly primer.
Same thing with the hood.
In the meantime, my dad dropped off the tailgate & I primed & blocked it as well.
The primed & blocked passenger fender & door pics are nowhere to be found, but rest assured, they are in the same stage as the others. They required minimal effort to get them straight. With that said, all the unboltable panels are ready for final urethane priming. Can't believe I'm saying this, but the body work had been a breeze thus far. It felt like cheating to have panels this nice.
Pete 67
Well-Known Member
We're going to do some more time traveling here....
After dropping the body off to the blaster back in April of 19, I had to get the frame ready for blasting soon after. First step was pressure washing it to remove most of 50 years worth of desert crud. The rolling chassis was still at my buddy's shop & one of his guys was bored at lunchtime.
Even with him getting most of the grime off, the amount of petrified grease left on the suspension parts was amazing. Here's a couple of shot of the controls arms, after I began chipping it away with a screwdriver.
My plan was to remove the front suspension & leave the rear axle in place so it was still moveable with the front crossmember on a dolly. We figured out a way to rig it to a tow dolly for the short ride over to the blaster. He had a small lift to get underneath & cleaned it up where it looked freshly welded at the plant. The frame came home & sat one on side of my garage while I concentrated on the body panels.
Body work starts to get old & the Vegas summer heat was starting kick in, so my plan was to move the body off the rotisserie on to a makeshift body cart. I took the idea from Rich L79s wagon page & it worked out great. $40 for 4 giant cooking oil barrels, $100 for barrel dollies, & $20 for 2 4 x 4's & voila. I had to cut the barrels down so the car would clear my 8 foot garage ceiling, but I can move the shell around with minimal effort by myself.
Once that was done, I began the process of setting the frame up on the rotisserie so I could begin prepping it for paint. I unbolted the rear arms & rear spring clamps & set the 10 bolt on dollies & easily rolled it out of the way.
Here's remnants of the factory inspection marks on the spring perches.
After dropping the body off to the blaster back in April of 19, I had to get the frame ready for blasting soon after. First step was pressure washing it to remove most of 50 years worth of desert crud. The rolling chassis was still at my buddy's shop & one of his guys was bored at lunchtime.
Even with him getting most of the grime off, the amount of petrified grease left on the suspension parts was amazing. Here's a couple of shot of the controls arms, after I began chipping it away with a screwdriver.
My plan was to remove the front suspension & leave the rear axle in place so it was still moveable with the front crossmember on a dolly. We figured out a way to rig it to a tow dolly for the short ride over to the blaster. He had a small lift to get underneath & cleaned it up where it looked freshly welded at the plant. The frame came home & sat one on side of my garage while I concentrated on the body panels.
Body work starts to get old & the Vegas summer heat was starting kick in, so my plan was to move the body off the rotisserie on to a makeshift body cart. I took the idea from Rich L79s wagon page & it worked out great. $40 for 4 giant cooking oil barrels, $100 for barrel dollies, & $20 for 2 4 x 4's & voila. I had to cut the barrels down so the car would clear my 8 foot garage ceiling, but I can move the shell around with minimal effort by myself.
Once that was done, I began the process of setting the frame up on the rotisserie so I could begin prepping it for paint. I unbolted the rear arms & rear spring clamps & set the 10 bolt on dollies & easily rolled it out of the way.
Here's remnants of the factory inspection marks on the spring perches.
Pete 67
Well-Known Member
When the frame went to the blaster, I also left him the front control arms, sway bar, front springs, and other various parts.
Once they came home it was time to remove all the bushings & the ball joints. I got to work on the arms before swapping the body on to the cart & the frame on the rotisserie.
Here's one of the uppers before I drilled out the rivets.
Here's all the original GM parts before I sent them on their way to the trash bin. It's too bad there's no way to restore the ball joints.
After the bushings were pressed out, the front arms were prepped & ready for paint. It's so nice working on southwest pit free metal.
Fast forward again & with the frame in place on the rotisserie it was time to remove the 3 speed linkage bracket that was welded in place.
Here's it is after I ground down the remaining weld & spread a little body putty. It's all sanded flat & ready for paint.
Here's some details of the frame & you can see how clean the steel is.
Original GM part number. Dated 8/29/63.
Some random stamped number
A couple of days later it was time for paint. The frame on the rotisserie didn't want to spin completely on it's side, so I devised a plan to spin it 1/4 of a turn in each direction in order to spray the top & bottom.
Meanwhile the UPS guy showed up with all of the pieces to rebuild the suspension components.
Most parts are still Made in the USA. All the bushings, ball joints, idler arm, tie rods, etc. Unfortunately AC Delco shocks are not. I'm considering reusing the original center link.
Forgot to take pics of the front arms when I sprayed them, but here's how the frame looks with the rebuilt uppers loosely mounted in place.
Here's a shot of the original GM control arm bump stop reinstalled.
Once they came home it was time to remove all the bushings & the ball joints. I got to work on the arms before swapping the body on to the cart & the frame on the rotisserie.
Here's one of the uppers before I drilled out the rivets.
Here's all the original GM parts before I sent them on their way to the trash bin. It's too bad there's no way to restore the ball joints.
After the bushings were pressed out, the front arms were prepped & ready for paint. It's so nice working on southwest pit free metal.
Fast forward again & with the frame in place on the rotisserie it was time to remove the 3 speed linkage bracket that was welded in place.
Here's it is after I ground down the remaining weld & spread a little body putty. It's all sanded flat & ready for paint.
Here's some details of the frame & you can see how clean the steel is.
Original GM part number. Dated 8/29/63.
Some random stamped number
A couple of days later it was time for paint. The frame on the rotisserie didn't want to spin completely on it's side, so I devised a plan to spin it 1/4 of a turn in each direction in order to spray the top & bottom.
Meanwhile the UPS guy showed up with all of the pieces to rebuild the suspension components.
Most parts are still Made in the USA. All the bushings, ball joints, idler arm, tie rods, etc. Unfortunately AC Delco shocks are not.
I'm considering reusing the original center link.Forgot to take pics of the front arms when I sprayed them, but here's how the frame looks with the rebuilt uppers loosely mounted in place.
Here's a shot of the original GM control arm bump stop reinstalled.
Pete 67
Well-Known Member
Let's continue our chassis build. After painting the front springs & shocks, I installed them into the frame. One of my least favorite things to do on a car project is compressing front springs. Using the all thread method through the upper shock hole with the lower hooks from a spring compressor, both sides went in without a hitch & more importantly, without any injuries.
Since I bought this car, I've been going back & forth about using the original stock drum set up. I even went as far as detailing the original drum spindles & backing plate, but in the end I couldn't bolt them on. I found a nice original disc take off from a '69 Chevelle that included original backing plates, spindles & caliper brackets for $100. Way too cheap to pass it up.
After dunking them all in the Evaporust bucket over night, this is what they looked like.
After some TLC, this is how they turned out...
I sprayed the backing plates with some Rustoleum bright silver metallic that really looks like silver cad.
With some new rotors & rebuilt calipers...
Here's a couple of shots of the original drum brake dust caps next to some new repops. Close enough from the outside, but notice the original has a spring inside.
Since I bought this car, I've been going back & forth about using the original stock drum set up. I even went as far as detailing the original drum spindles & backing plate, but in the end I couldn't bolt them on. I found a nice original disc take off from a '69 Chevelle that included original backing plates, spindles & caliper brackets for $100. Way too cheap to pass it up.
After dunking them all in the Evaporust bucket over night, this is what they looked like.
After some TLC, this is how they turned out...
I sprayed the backing plates with some Rustoleum bright silver metallic that really looks like silver cad.
With some new rotors & rebuilt calipers...
Here's a couple of shots of the original drum brake dust caps next to some new repops. Close enough from the outside, but notice the original has a spring inside.
Maybe I missed it, which seat pattern are you going with, the corvair, or chevelle? SMS is great at providing material, but if you commission them to build your seat covers allow 2 years. They are a necessary evil for rare patterns but I'm just thankful they're still available.
Pete 67
Well-Known Member
Jerry,
This is all time lapse. If you recall on OCS, I had sent you a PM asking your advice how to sweet talk Doug at SMS to get my stuff out the door. It took just under 2 years, so I'm "fortunate" I knew that going in, but it still was down to the wire when I was moving out of my house last year.
I wound up choosing the original Chevelle 300 pattern, not the Corvair.
Pete 67
Well-Known Member
Technology is a wonderful thing, except the times when your photos mysteriously disappear. Which seems to be the case of my rear end freshen up & rear drum backing plate builds. The only pics I have are of the broken drill bits with the removed housing bushings & the center section with the gasket awaiting the cover install. I digress...
One bushing came out pretty easily after drilling the rubber. The other did not want to give up the ghost. That took me the better part of an afternoon with lots of swearing mixed in. Luckily beer makes everything better...
Here's the 12 bolt before the cover goes back on. It received new axle bearings & seals. I gave it such a pretty paint job, with the center section cast iron gray, while the axle tubes & cover were sprayed with the stainless steel paint mocking bare steel. I know it's technically incorrect for judging, but I don't care. I like the look of it. I'll get a shot of it & post it up at some point.
Then it was time to paint the rear arms.
Here are the lowers after blasting & a shot of the NOS upper arm I found with the notched ear & correct reinforcement to clear the 12 bolt housing. The wagon originally had the 10 bolt upper arms that have the factory adjustment on them with the special bolts & the cams. Unfortunately the one side doesn't clear the 12 bolt, so I just picked up another mint, rust free upper arm from All American Classics in Oregon.
After I painted them & then pressed the bushings in, here they are...
They are literally like new.
Here's the rear control arm bolts & the front brake hose brackets after a dip in the black oxide solution from Caswell plating.
Which seems to be the case of my rear end freshen up & rear drum backing plate builds. The only pics I have are of the broken drill bits with the removed housing bushings & the center section with the gasket awaiting the cover install. I digress...One bushing came out pretty easily after drilling the rubber. The other did not want to give up the ghost. That took me the better part of an afternoon with lots of swearing mixed in. Luckily beer makes everything better...
Here's the 12 bolt before the cover goes back on. It received new axle bearings & seals. I gave it such a pretty paint job, with the center section cast iron gray, while the axle tubes & cover were sprayed with the stainless steel paint mocking bare steel. I know it's technically incorrect for judging, but I don't care. I like the look of it. I'll get a shot of it & post it up at some point.
Then it was time to paint the rear arms.
Here are the lowers after blasting & a shot of the NOS upper arm I found with the notched ear & correct reinforcement to clear the 12 bolt housing. The wagon originally had the 10 bolt upper arms that have the factory adjustment on them with the special bolts & the cams. Unfortunately the one side doesn't clear the 12 bolt, so I just picked up another mint, rust free upper arm from All American Classics in Oregon.
After I painted them & then pressed the bushings in, here they are...
They are literally like new.
Here's the rear control arm bolts & the front brake hose brackets after a dip in the black oxide solution from Caswell plating.
Pete 67
Well-Known Member
So with the rear installed & the frame back on 4 wheels(photos later), I turned my attention the the drivetrain. If you recall, I bought the 327 from the seller of the wagon. For $250 he gave me the short block, a set of pyramid casting heads, a couple of starters, a flyweel, 621 bellhousing, a 3795397 GM intake from a '62 Vette, an original GM chrome air cleaner lid from the mid 60s, a set of aluminum M/T valve covers & a bunch of other random parts.
First up was drop off the engine at the machine shop. This was the low horse 327 from a '66 Vette. Can't believe they used those tiny balancers.
The engine other than having a slight ridge on the top of the cylinders was in really nice condition. The machine shop manager was shocked when he tore the block apart that it had never been rebored. Until now. The block went .030 over, the crank & rods were .010 under. I also had him drill & tap the crank, install the L79 domed pistons on the rods & refresh the 461 double hump heads I've had for 20 years.
A look at the goodies...
Here it is back in my garage starting the reassembly.
All the pistons installed, one head on.
Installing the pump pick up on the new Melling pump. Standard pressure M55....Later on I added the screen retainer from Pioneer.
Side by side of the original timing set & the new set from Cloyes. Notice the GM casting mark on the Cloyes cam gear. Another part I've had sitting around for the better part of 20 years..
Timing chain installed.
I ran an L79 cam in a 283 for about 5 miles when I bought my first '67. Then I decided to put a big block in it. That was 1991. That cam & Rhoads lifters have been awaiting a home ever since.
Here's the valvetrain parts all neatly stored & ready to go...
Heads on & alternator mocked up. The upper bracket is a GM NOS piece for an L79.
First up was drop off the engine at the machine shop. This was the low horse 327 from a '66 Vette. Can't believe they used those tiny balancers.
The engine other than having a slight ridge on the top of the cylinders was in really nice condition. The machine shop manager was shocked when he tore the block apart that it had never been rebored. Until now. The block went .030 over, the crank & rods were .010 under. I also had him drill & tap the crank, install the L79 domed pistons on the rods & refresh the 461 double hump heads I've had for 20 years.
A look at the goodies...
Here it is back in my garage starting the reassembly.
All the pistons installed, one head on.
Installing the pump pick up on the new Melling pump. Standard pressure M55....Later on I added the screen retainer from Pioneer.
Side by side of the original timing set & the new set from Cloyes. Notice the GM casting mark on the Cloyes cam gear. Another part I've had sitting around for the better part of 20 years..
Timing chain installed.
I ran an L79 cam in a 283 for about 5 miles when I bought my first '67. Then I decided to put a big block in it. That was 1991. That cam & Rhoads lifters have been awaiting a home ever since.
Here's the valvetrain parts all neatly stored & ready to go...
Heads on & alternator mocked up. The upper bracket is a GM NOS piece for an L79.
Automotive porn. Love it
Glad you went with front discs
Glad you went with front discs
There is a garage I look in on my way home from work every night that has one of these sitting in it. It has windows thou.
If he didn't have a BLM sign in his yard, I would stop and ask what he`s doing with it. I might anyway when summer rolls around.
Love those little vans.
Pete 67
Well-Known Member
Edit...didn't realize you were replying to Jerry. Been a long day.
Last edited:
Pete 67
Well-Known Member
Nice build Pete.
Love those wagons.
Did you post the address of where you got it? Seems I remember seeing a google street view of the wagon a few years ago when you posted it on the other site.
Not sure if it was yours or not?
Yes...I did actually. When I found the car I created an OCS thread saying "My turn to hit the Chevelle lottery". I'll look up his address...
Comment #33. L79 cam he had from 1991.
Just above the picture of the lifters and rods.