What's new
Old Chevelles

Welcome to OldChevelles.com, built by Auto Enthusiasts for Auto Enthusiasts. Cars are not our only interests so please feel free to post about any subject the community might enjoy or you just feel you need to air.

We respect free speech and constructive dialogue however we don't allow threatening talk against members, nudity, or pornography. Threads are monitored and trolls are not tolerated.

This site is completely free and there are no costs. Please enjoy and provide feedback.
  • We've enabled the website app for anyone who wants to use it on a mobile or desktop device.

  • We've changed the header logo to display our Member's Cars.

    If you'd like your car to show up there, go to the forum Site Bugs & Feature Requests and post your image in the "Member's Car Pictures for the Header Logo" and we'll add your car into the lineup.

1966 LS swap

So here is what I see I have left:

Torque converter bolts
starter
install and wire termintator X max
have driveshaft shortened
Mate up exhaust to new headers
radiator
Air inlet piping
misc wiring (engine grounds, new positive batt cable)
 
Another knock on Speed Engineering, the collector on the one header points slightly up, more than the other and due to this the exhaust will hit the transmission crossmember. Looking for a work around. If I dent the pipe it will pass, or I have to neck it down from 2.5 to 2.25 and back to 2.5, or do a smalll s bend down and back.......
 
Another knock on Speed Engineering, the collector on the one header points slightly up, more than the other and due to this the exhaust will hit the transmission crossmember. Looking for a work around. If I dent the pipe it will pass, or I have to neck it down from 2.5 to 2.25 and back to 2.5, or do a smalll s bend down and back.......
On the flange that's pointing up; can you grind on the lower 50% of the flange to help angle it back down ?
 
so these headers do not have a flange, they have just a 3" pipe. I used a reducer and welded a ball socket end to try and get some movement and I can point it down but then it just will make it difficult to connect to mid pipe. I will get a picture.. Like i said the other side is perfect though.
 
Here are some photos of some options. The first reducer, forgive the welding but you will see the ball socket I can use. Then I have another reducer that I can just use with straight pipe but you will see if I go straight it will hit....
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3171.JPG
    IMG_3171.JPG
    102.7 KB · Views: 9
  • IMG_3173.JPG
    IMG_3173.JPG
    108.1 KB · Views: 6
  • IMG_3174.JPG
    IMG_3174.JPG
    98 KB · Views: 6
I do not think that will help since the whole collector for the primaries is pointing up. If I weld this on, sure I can point the ball down lower but at some point it has to come back up so that would mean another ball socket.....
 
I do not think that will help since the whole collector for the primaries is pointing up. If I weld this on, sure I can point the ball down lower but at some point it has to come back up so that would mean another ball socket.....
I don't get it ? If the pipe is pointing 5 degrees up, why can't you weld the new piece on to correct that ?
 
I don't get it ? If the pipe is pointing 5 degrees up, why can't you weld the new piece on to correct that ?
Same here lol. If it’s 5 degrees up then correcting it will put it 5 degrees down toward the ground. I need it to be straight

If I just use the ball to make it straight then it will still be hitting the crossmember

It needs like an s jog bend to go a little down and then back up again.
 
FYI, i just called speed engineering and they said the headers are designed that way. Huh? So one side is kicked up and the other is flat? Makes no sense, he didnt have any explanation for why other than that is how it is. Again, calling BS on them.
 
Had a set of headers many years ago & one of the collectors was on crooked & angled up. Had to do something like that.
 
They charge a 20% restock fee, I have to pay return shipping on 350 dollar headers. I’m gonna pull them and take the loss I think. Probably will go with the hooker ones…going to think about it over the weekend. Anyone local wants them for 150 they are yours!
 
I was thinking you could probably heat them and put in a vise and bend down but I don’t wanna mess with that.
 
On the picture with the yellow sticker, you could cut that pipe back and have a shop but a little curve in a piece to weld on the backside.

When I did my exhaust, I went to a local muffler shop with a mandrel bender, put it on the lift and then the owner and I bent and welded everything. Is there a shop in town that will help you out?
 
On the picture with the yellow sticker, you could cut that pipe back and have a shop but a little curve in a piece to weld on the backside.

When I did my exhaust, I went to a local muffler shop with a mandrel bender, put it on the lift and then the owner and I bent and welded everything. Is there a shop in town that will help you out?
Yea I was thinking that what you suggested very good thought. Or just heat it up and use a pipe to dimple it. All in all though I just hate the idea of having to put a kink or bend in the exhaust around the poorly created headers. Last night I was thinking this was a good chance to change directions and do a turbo lol but now I was thinking maybe I should try and heat and bend that collector down more. If not then yea I think your suggestion is the way to go.... will keep you all posted! Thank you.
 
this is about as good as I can get it fellas. I have to clean it all up a little and get rid of those stupid labels but hey its gonna work!
 

Attachments

  • E0C8AD2F-DFF8-493F-B759-1F00F4D16F83.jpg
    E0C8AD2F-DFF8-493F-B759-1F00F4D16F83.jpg
    141.8 KB · Views: 6
  • 22144594-40FF-4FED-ACFC-529C6446A653.jpg
    22144594-40FF-4FED-ACFC-529C6446A653.jpg
    139.8 KB · Views: 6
  • 64F0D62E-8A9A-42B1-B644-304A117F1599.jpg
    64F0D62E-8A9A-42B1-B644-304A117F1599.jpg
    110.5 KB · Views: 5
Top Bottom