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Valve lash adjustment, hydraulic lifters "Best" method?

"Best" method for setting SBC Valve lash?

  • Just #1 and #6 TDC to do all of them.

    Votes: 1 16.7%
  • I&E for each cylinder in turn.

    Votes: 2 33.3%
  • I&E every 90º following firing order.

    Votes: 3 50.0%
  • Another method.

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    6

Richard150MPH

Veteran Member
Hope this does not start a major argument. Let's make it a poll!
Looking for the "Best" way to adjust the valves for my new cam.
Last time around I apparently left a couple too loose and did not hear the clatter with my bad hearing.

I have to set them with the engine not running until the cam is run-in.
Once it is run-in I can re-set them with the engine running.

I've looked at several methods.
One claims they may all be set using #1 and #6 TDC.
That is what I did last time and now I'm spending $500 and a few days fixing it. :(

Cam companies want to insist on doing both valves for each cylinder in turn.
That requires a lot of dry engine rotations, leaving me wondering if any break-in lube would remain on the cam and lifter faces.

The third option appears to be adjusting both valves by firing order every 90º of rotation.
I like this idea as it only requires two engine rotations.
I took the time to mark my balancer every 90°.
The method is, to adjust the valves start at #1 TDC and adjusted both I&E.
Then move 90° and adjust both on #8 TDC and move 90° again to #4 TDC, repeat through the entire firing order.
SBC firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.
If it matters my cam is pretty mild as it's for a truck.

I don't build a lot of Chevy engines, usually four or six cylinder sports cars.
They usually make it easy as you can just look at the cam to set the valves.
 
W/O the intake on is the best way IMO, if the intake is on I like to turn the engine by hand and adj each lifter when at it's highest point by checking for least up/down movement and be sure PR's can spin, I had a rebuilt 355 installed replacing a 305 HO in an 84 T/A 5 spd in the late 90's and the builder decided to adj while engine was running in the car well oil got on the headers and caught on fire, guy got all excited trying to put the small fire out lol so not the best way unless you have old valve cover you can cut the top up, they do sell splash clip on guards for doing that
 
W/O the intake on is the best way IMO, if the intake is on I like to turn the engine by hand and adj each lifter when at it's highest point by checking for least up/down movement and be sure PR's can spin, I had a rebuilt 355 installed replacing a 305 HO in an 84 T/A 5 spd in the late 90's and the builder decided to adj while engine was running in the car well oil got on the headers and caught on fire, guy got all excited trying to put the small fire out lol so not the best way unless you have old valve cover you can cut the top up, they do sell splash clip on guards for doing that
I have splash guards but it is still a messy job.
 
I think these are the same ? But it's not as easy if you don't have a timing tape on the balancer
  • I&E for each cylinder in turn​

  • I&E every 90º following firing order.​

 
Not the same, I&E for each cylinder in turn means having to turn the crank a lot more.
First bring one lifter to max lift before adjusting the other valve, then bring the other lifter to the top to adjust the remaining valve on that cylinder.
Lot of engine turning that way on a V8.
 
Last edited:
On hyd cams I use the same as I set them for solids, IO-EC method. I only add 1/4 turn to the lifter preload.
 
I go 3/8 turn preload on hydros but my stuff is all street. I think 1/4 is for competition no?
 
Not the same, I&E for each cylinder in turn means having to turn the crank a lot more.
First bring one lifter to max lift before adjusting the other valve, then bring the other lifter to the top to adjust the remaining valve on that cylinder.
Lot of engine turning that way on a V8.
I've always turned it 90 degrees each turn and adjusted them in firing-order. That way both intake and exhaust are sitting closed on the base circle.
Why would anyone turn more than 8 times ?
 
I think I am going with option three.
Adjust following firing order.
Once it is running I will have my buddy listen to it for me.
Have to get it right this time.
 
There is one other method I used all the time in my early car days bit it's messy. Adjust them with the car running, messy but it is the best way with hyd lifters.
 
Before it can run at all the valves have to be close.
On a new cam they have to be very close.
I am going with option three.
I've been able to verify that it will put the lifters on the heel of the cam.
 
On hyd cams I use the same as I set them for solids, IO-EC method. I only add 1/4 turn to the lifter preload.

This is backwards. It's EO-IC. Just as the exhaust begins to open, set the intake. Just as the intake valve is finished closing, set the exhaust. 1/2-3/4 turn past zero lash. Don't spin your pushrods to find zero lash...move them up & down.

You guys doing this any other way won't get your valves as accurate as this. And forget about doing this running...Dave Ray made this point on the OCS about 20+ years ago. I'll paraphrase; "Valves are to be adjusted on the engine stand. Think about what you'd do if you have a speed boat with a big block chevy. No chance to adjust them running."

Dave also had a member take pics documenting using this method...with no intake in place, you can clearly see the base of the lobes are in their lowest points when you go to set the lash. I've been doing it this way since Dave set us all straight. Never an issue.
 
When my second try at buying a piston stop arrives tomorrow evening I will finally be able to degree the cam and adjust the lifter pre-load.
So hope to have the truck back on the road this weekend.
Have one last eight hundred mile trip to make, then sell it.
Seems to be the only way I will break my habit of buying more cars when I am optimistic for the future. Doubting I will be optimistic again anytime soon in any case.

If I can come reasonably close to break-even on the truck I will get the El Camino completed faster.
I have also given up on ever getting on a road course again, so no need to worry about towing to the track.
Do they still sell bail insurance for lead-foot drivers? ;)
 
W/O the intake on is the best way IMO, if the intake is on I like to turn the engine by hand and adj each lifter when at it's highest point by checking for least up/down movement and be sure PR's can spin, I had a rebuilt 355 installed replacing a 305 HO in an 84 T/A 5 spd in the late 90's and the builder decided to adj while engine was running in the car well oil got on the headers and caught on fire, guy got all excited trying to put the small fire out lol so not the best way unless you have old valve cover you can cut the top up, they do sell splash clip on guards for doing that
Intake removed, just set the lash on the cam lobe's base circle. Hydraulic.... Zero lash & 1/4 turn and that's assuming you can see the cam lobes of course.
Easy Peasy
 
Intake is off but the cam is not visible on a SBC.
But you CAN easily verify that the lifters are on the heel of the cam by looking at them.
They will both be at the same height and low in the bores.
 
I voted for number 1 because it is the method in the factory service manual for flat tappets. For MOST circumstances, this is all you need.

Ps. I can’t tell you how many people I’ve come behind that can’t sense when the rocker is at zero lash. This is the most important part.
 
There is one other method I used all the time in my early car days bit it's messy. Adjust them with the car running, messy but it is the best way with hyd lifters.
I've always used the Mr Gasket clips that keep the stock rockers from spraying oil, combined with some stock valve covers with the lids cut off to catch the oil. :)
This doesn't work with roller rockers :(
 
I've always used the Mr Gasket clips that keep the stock rockers from spraying oil, combined with some stock valve covers with the lids cut off to catch the oil. :)
This doesn't work with roller rockers :(
Did you have the ones that are stamped sheet metal or the wire ones with the plastic tip that goes in the oil hole? I had the former but bought them in the late 70s. These were my favorite but someone helped me out of them long ago.
20A9AFD9-0DAB-43CD-A2A9-F927832BA69A.jpeg
 
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