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Finally getting close to 327 assembly, head gasket ?

Richard150MPH

Veteran Member
I will need to bolt up a head to check valve to piston clearance with my cam and heads.
The cam is not particularly high-lift but the Brownfield/AFR valves may be "Relocated" a bit.
Looking at the price of .036" head gaskets I hate to waste one just for measuring.
So what are guys doing about this, waste a $40.00 gasket, shim stock, other?
 
I will need to bolt up a head to check valve to piston clearance with my cam and heads.
The cam is not particularly high-lift but the Brownfield/AFR valves may be "Relocated" a bit.
Looking at the price of .036" head gaskets I hate to waste one just for measuring.
So what are guys doing about this, waste a $40.00 gasket, shim stock, other?
I wouldn't bother with a low lift stock cam. Or check it without a gasket installed.
 
Lift usually doesn't matter, but the duration does. Max lift the piston is down quite a ways.
 
This is why you keep the last gaskets that were on the engine before the rebuild. Something easier said than done.
Nashville is right in suggesting that if it's ok without the gasket you're good. I put clay on top of the piston to get a view of what the quench is like..
 
When I do piston to valve checking I do not ever use a gasket , why you ask? because all you have to do is add the thickness of the gasket into the measurements you take without it. So if lets say your piston to valve clearance is .080 just add in the .036 gasket number and you will now have .116 clearance having not to waste a new head gasket.
 
Cam is not stock, actually fairly radical solid lifter at 3,000 - 7,200 operating range.
It will run at less RPM but not as efficiently.
Lift is about .458", so not the wild .550" some guys run.
My major concern is the "60/40" move of the valves.
Maybe I will use some thin paper between the head and block.
Do not want to scratch the head surface.

I have put some checking springs in my on-line shopping cart.
I already have clay.
 
Cam is not stock, actually fairly radical solid lifter at 3,000 - 7,200 operating range.
It will run at less RPM but not as efficiently.
Lift is about .458", so not the wild .550" some guys run.
My major concern is the "60/40" move of the valves.
Maybe I will use some thin paper between the head and block.
Do not want to scratch the head surface.

I have put some checking springs in my on-line shopping cart.
I already have clay.
You will have more than enough clearance with the .458 cam in your 327 and remember it's about the overlap events not the max lift that creates clearance problems.
 
Probably should mention the pistons are 10.75-1 forged JE's at zero deck.
At current gas prices and octane levels I am probably building "Too much engine", but I've always wanted a killer play car.
Skirts have been coated for durability.

IMG_2740.jpgIMG_2741.jpg
 
Cam is not stock, actually fairly radical solid lifter at 3,000 - 7,200 operating range.
It will run at less RPM but not as efficiently.
Lift is about .458", so not the wild .550" some guys run.
My major concern is the "60/40" move of the valves.
Maybe I will use some thin paper between the head and block.
Do not want to scratch the head surface.

I have put some checking springs in my on-line shopping cart.
I already have clay.
For checking springs go to Home Depot and get a couple Bifold door springs they're the same thing, also my alum headed 10.8:1 comp runs fine on 91 Non Eth and No change in power on the dyno between 93 and 91 non eth
 
Probably should mention the pistons are 10.75-1 forged JE's at zero deck.
At current gas prices and octane levels I am probably building "Too much engine", but I've always wanted a killer play car.
Skirts have been coated for durability.

View attachment 4776View attachment 4777
You could go over .600 lift with that piston and have enough clearance like my SRP's did. I have over .120 on the intake side with my .600 lift Engle cam. Going back to the Elfin flat tappet cam with 1.6 rockers as it has much more explosive power than this roller cam does.
 
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