What's new
By:
Filters
Old Chevelles

Welcome to OldChevelles.com, built by Auto Enthusiasts for Auto Enthusiasts. Cars are not our only interests so please feel free to post about any subject the community might enjoy or you just feel you need to air.

We respect free speech and constructive dialogue however we don't allow threatening talk against members, nudity, or pornography. Threads are monitored and trolls are not tolerated.

This site is completely free and there are no costs. Please enjoy and provide feedback.

  • We've enabled the website app for anyone who wants to use it on a mobile or desktop device.

  • We've changed the header logo to display our Member's Cars.

    If you'd like your car to show up there, go to the forum Site Bugs & Feature Requests and post your image in the "Member's Car Pictures for the Header Logo" and we'll add your car into the lineup.

clunk!

overpaid

overpaid

Well-Known Member
So as you all know I just finished my LS swap and I am noticing this clunk if I stab the throttle and I am coasting. Doesn't seem to care much about the rpm or speed but imagine you are crusing, let off and then instead of a light tip in you stab the throttle. The driveshaft is a new 4" aluminum with new 1350 joints and the rear is a new quick performance 9" with a eaton posi.

It is not a bad clunk but it is a clunk, not that I feel but I hear.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!
 
Honestly, you would not hear it if I took a video
The initial thing that comes to mind when I hear it is a u joint but like i said those are new.
and when i go under the car, grab the driveshaft and try and move it rotational and back and forth it is tight...
maybe something in the trans? maybe it is normal slop in the 9 inch..?
:(
 
I have BMR upper and lowers with the poly bushings. Solid spherical in the housing though for the uppers but where it connects to the frame it is poly.
 
Seems tight all around. I am going to get it up on stands soon and take a closer look. One thing I thought of was maybe the driveshaft is too long and on load the yoke is bottoming out on the output shaft but I know for a fact that was measured correctly but I will double check.

is there any chance it could be the transmission?
 
Definitely something with the diff! I just put the rear up and I can move the one side tire like a couple degrees and nothing else moves....eaton tru trac i know should be tighter than that
 
I have had 2yrs on my QP9 and no clunck. My uppers and lowers are UMI with full SOLID ROTO-JOINTs.

With the rear jacked up, you may hear a sound buy turning the tires forwards and back. As was suggested, did you check the pattern prior to setting in the 3rd member?

We've installed sever QP9's and Ive never seen an issue.
 
cage2592 said:
I have had 2yrs on my QP9 and no clunck. My uppers and lowers are UMI with full SOLID ROTO-JOINTs.

With the rear jacked up, you may hear a sound buy turning the tires forwards and back. As was suggested, did you check the pattern prior to setting in the 3rd member?

We've installed sever QP9's and Ive never seen an issue.
Click to expand...
Yea they are great! Love those guys. Just got off the phone with them and he said that for a tru trac they do act kinda werid when they are in the air like that, he said it seems normal....so back to the beginning.

So as far as checking anything, I just received the complete build 3rd member from them and put it in....
 
As far as i can tell I have checked everything else off the list. U joints, slip joint, suspension, engine and trans mount, cross-member....

That is how I felt, I sent these same vids to QP, waiting to hear what they say.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom