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What’d you work on today?

JohnC said:
You guys have convinced me. I just need to practice laying the clear without orange peel so I don’t sand off all my hard work and product. I think I’ll practice and try bumping my pressure a bit. I believe my gun is a Sata knockoff made by Astro. Paint (Tamco) recommended pressure of 28-32 or something like that. I shot at the very lower end of that range.
Click to expand...

I really really admire anyone who can lay down clear flat enough, even on a flowcoat, where sanding & polishing isn't necessary. Personally, I've never been able to pull it off on a body panel. I've sprayed interior, underhood parts & door jambs that came out really nice, but if the rest of the car is sanded & polished, that one fender will stick out like a sore thumb with an uncut flow coat, IMO.

I didn't realize you're only shooting the top of the fender. I might give that a try, but I'd spray clear from the entire length from front to back on that top strip. Foam tape isn't the best method on this one, IMO. I think I'd back tape it instead & as soon as you spray the last coat of clear, I'd carefully remove the tape & use an aerosol blender very lightly on the entire body line on each side (assuming you aren't painting the underhood section of the fender jamb)
 
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Closed the feculent "Pay-Pal" account! :mad:
Fed up with their constant stream of excuses to hold my funds, demanding new photo ID despite having an account for years, demand for my SS so their crack-head employees may more easily steal my ID, etc.
Yah sure, it's for "Security". AKA more Gov. Org. snooping.
Cash is king and my bank still takes checks.
Now I will have to wait another week for payment, but at least the funds will not be counted as income twice!
 
Richard150MPH said:
Closed the feculent "Pay-Pal" account! :mad:
Fed up with their constant stream of excuses to hold my funds, demanding new photo ID despite having an account for years, demand for my SS so their crack-head employees may more easily steal my ID, etc.
Yah sure, it's for "Security". AKA more Gov. Org. snooping.
Cash is king and my bank still takes checks.
Now I will have to wait another week for payment, but at least the funds will not be counted as income twice!
Click to expand...
Govt is making payPal report sales, ebay is too.
 
Pete 67 said:
I really really admire anyone who can lay down clear flat enough, even on a flowcoat, where sanding & polishing isn't necessary. Personally, I've never been able to pull it off on a body panel. I've sprayed interior, underhood parts & door jambs that came out really nice, but if the rest of the car is sanded & polished, that one fender will stick out like a sore thumb with an uncut flow coat, IMO.

I didn't realize you're only shooting the top of the fender. I might give that a try, but I'd spray clear from the entire length from front to back on that top strip. Foam tape isn't the best method on this one, IMO. I think I'd back tape it instead & as soon as you spray the last coat of clear, I'd carefully remove the tape & use an aerosol blender very lightly on the entire body line on each side (assuming you aren't painting the underhood section of the fender jamb)
Click to expand...
I’ll research this further before I take a stab at it.
I agree that I could get the paint to lay perfectly flat on my dash (different gun, different clear coat) and on my tail light bucket I got a lot less orange peel but on large panels I struggle more.

My thought is that on a small part you are able to put on heavier coats that flow out better and really watch for runs but on a large panel you move a lot faster because you have a lot of area to cover and want to keep moving to keep your wet edge. I guess that’s my theory at least.

By back taping, that’s where you mask and roll the tape edge back so that some paint settles underneath the rolled edge but hopefully not a hard edge? Is this an example of the blending spray



Thanks for everyone’s advice. Painting is fun but frustrating. I’m gonna find a panel tonight and try spraying a little with a higher pressure and see what that does for my Orange peel.
 
Gov can pretty well shove it.
Funds to pain-pal show up as income, then again when I transfer to my bank. :rolleyes:
So to keep life simpler I will just take checks.
The older I get the less patience I have for 1984 type crap.
 
Richard150MPH said:
Gov can pretty well shove it.
Funds to pain-pal show up as income, then again when I transfer to my bank. :rolleyes:
So to keep life simpler I will just take checks.
The older I get the less patience I have for 1984 type crap.
Click to expand...

Couldn't agree more. Tired as hell of every government agency holding their hand out and them putting their nose in my personal business.

I try to do all cash transactions as much as possible and encourage everyone else to do the same.
 
JohnC said:
I’ll research this further before I take a stab at it.
I agree that I could get the paint to lay perfectly flat on my dash (different gun, different clear coat) and on my tail light bucket I got a lot less orange peel but on large panels I struggle more.

My thought is that on a small part you are able to put on heavier coats that flow out better and really watch for runs but on a large panel you move a lot faster because you have a lot of area to cover and want to keep moving to keep your wet edge. I guess that’s my theory at least.

By back taping, that’s where you mask and roll the tape edge back so that some paint settles underneath the rolled edge but hopefully not a hard edge? Is this an example of the blending spray



Thanks for everyone’s advice. Painting is fun but frustrating. I’m gonna find a panel tonight and try spraying a little with a higher pressure and see what that does for my Orange peel.
Click to expand...
Yes on the back taping. That's a really hard edge on the top of that fender, so you should be able to do this close to invisibly. Since that top area is pretty narrow, you can spray the clear from the hood side of the fender in a back & forth motion. Try to avoid coming at it from the outside of the fender, as that is more likely to create a hard line. Before the 3rd coat, peel the tape down a little, spray your clear, then lightly use the blend spray. Before the last coat, peel it down a little more, then spray another light coat of the blend spray. Remove the tape very carefully a few minutes later. If you do get a slight line, it should sand away pretty easily with 1500-2000 grit as you're sanding the top of the fender. Then you can buff it out together when you're done sanding the top.

That spray in your link is clear blender, but I'm not sure I would trust it. Call Tamco & see if they recommend a blender which is compatible with their clears.

Personally, I fucking despise painting. It's one of the few jobs I'll happily farm out. I'll paint interior parts, underhood, & jambs, but I'm not sure I have the stomach to paint an entire car that I'm restoring. Too much can go wrong if you're not setup with a really strong compressor with a dry, clean air supply & a clean shop with plenty of lighting. Materials cost way too much for trial & error these days.

I had a great hook up in Vegas where I would do all my bodywork & prep, then I would take it to a guy who worked at one of the huge car auctions. They had a giant downdraft booth with an Axalta mixing bank in their reconditioning shop. Cost me $2500, materials included, to have my wagon sprayed over a weekend. That was for 2 gallons of waterborne basecoat & 2 gallons of Axalta clear with the hardener. Materials alone at a paint supplier were more than that $2500. Then I took it back to my shop to sand it down & buff it myself.
 
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Thanks for going through the effort to walk me though this.
I like painting but I hate cleaning the gun. I also hate that I don't have a real dust free paint room.

I pulled out some old scrap sheet metal to do some tests last night. Sprayed some clear on at 28#, 30# and 32#, the ranges recommended by the paint manufacturer. 32# clearly has the least orange peel and 28# (where I sprayed previously) clearly had the most. The panels were laying flat so that probably helped but I'm hopeful I can lay it down flatter next time.
 
JohnC said:
Thanks for going through the effort to walk me though this.
I like painting but I hate cleaning the gun. I also hate that I don't have a real dust free paint room.

I pulled out some old scrap sheet metal to do some tests last night. Sprayed some clear on at 28#, 30# and 32#, the ranges recommended by the paint manufacturer. 32# clearly has the least orange peel and 28# (where I sprayed previously) clearly had the most. The panels were laying flat so that probably helped but I'm hopeful I can lay it down flatter next time.
Click to expand...

Just because the manufacturer of the gun recommends between 28 to 32 doesn't mean you can't go a little higher (like to 34 or 36), but typically going higher just means it's atomizing better because the mix is thicker.

Depending on the paints used will also depend on how much reducer used and you can always add a little more to help with atomization. Test panels are your best friend.
 
Installing a 3 ton (36k) mini-split in my house ; and it will be hooked to solar power.
Laying down some plywood walkways in the attic so I can move around up there.
Need to get this done before the nukes start flying :)
 
Today I soda blasted my Lotus Europa fiberglass bonnet.
Here are my observations.
It required more soda than I would like at $1.00 a pound.
After a few minutes I was able to reduce the soda flow while keeping the efficiency.
Smooth side blast a lot quicker than the rough.
Original paint can be stubborn.
I still need to touch up a few spots on the rough side.
If there were a chemical stripper that could be used without issue it would probably be my preference.
But Soda gets ALL the paint and filler off so reveals every old repair and flaw.
It also takes the soft Bondo away.

I am now convinced that Soda is the best for fiberglass if the body is to have all old issues addressed.
 
Spent the day yesterday explaining and going over everything with the buyers of our house, mowed the lawn for the last time there (supposed to be getting a cashiers check today instead of them depositing the proceeeds in our account), mowed my grass (new property), met with the septic guy and did a number of test digs for the septic field but hit limerock at every hole I dug, and finally found a spot that was pure sand so now we don't have to have a mounded septic field with a pump station, and then finally put a new LG microwave in the bus (over the stove).

We'd bought a brand new Whirlpool Convection Microwave, but after 2 weeks it shit the bed and Whirlpool can't get the replacement parts and refuse to refund our money.

So I told Lisa I'll put the Whirlpool away until they get the parts to fix it and when the guy comes out and fixes it, as soon as he's done fixing it and testing it, I'm going to shoot it 5 or 6 times with my .40 with the repair man watching. What a pile of shit.
 
Worked i the garden last night pulling weeds and rolling up chicken wire and dumping diesel on fire ant nests.

Days are getting shorter, makes for long nights.
 
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