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This site is completely free and there are no costs. Please enjoy and provide feedback.What a decent low budget HVLP gun?
- Thread starter 77cruiser
- Start date
kmakar
Janitor
They will all put mist in the air even at low pressure. Harbor Fright has a few of them ranging from cheap to moderately priced, but technique has alot to do with finish.
This guy proved just that with the cheap harbor Fright gun.
kmakar
Janitor
This is the gun I have and it does a great job. It's not as expensive as others, but it's good for production and great results every time. Jerry can chime in as he has the same gun.
I also use the 3M PPS and bought the adapter for the Iwata.
I also use the 3M PPS and bought the adapter for the Iwata.
The HF one is probably not much different than the one I have.
I think I paid about $50 for this one.
I think I paid about $50 for this one.
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kmakar
Janitor
Yeah, looks about the same as the HF one. I bought the HF to do "basic" painting on stuff I make (steel projects), but don't use it for any finish painting (like for cars).
In a BC/CC system, Isn't shooting the clear the really difficult part ?
I want to paint my Camaro myself. The body is in good shape.
I was thinking of using a low priced gun to shoot the basecoat and then
take it to someone with a nice booth to shoot the clearcoat ?
Maybe a Devilbiss gun like Tom mentioned just for the basecoat ?
I want to paint my Camaro myself. The body is in good shape.
I was thinking of using a low priced gun to shoot the basecoat and then
take it to someone with a nice booth to shoot the clearcoat ?
Maybe a Devilbiss gun like Tom mentioned just for the basecoat ?
IMO, shooting the clear is the easiest part. My struggle has always been getting Metallica to lay right without mottling. I personally wouldn’t use a cheap throw away gun for anything other than primer or painting a chassis. For $200, the starting line gun is a small investment to get a decent job.
As for actually shooting the car, you won’t have a long enough window of time to move the car between base and clear. You could also introduce contamination to the color coat and cause a host of other problems.
When I spray a car myself, I lay the sealer and color down, then the clear the next day. I use PPG materials so there is a 24 hour window to clear after basecoat.
Spraying an entire car in one day is a TON of work and a long day.
Both bc and clear have their challenges. Metallics need a very good, even pattern to not show tiger striping or modeling. Clear needs an excellent atomization to lay flat. Never used the starting line guns, but my brother has good success with them. If you are buying a gun for a single job, I'd highly recommend practicing on test panels and watching some tutorials with that particular gun to set a baseline, air pressure, fluid, distance, speed and overlap.
I'd never follow clear over someone's base and I doubt you'd find someone to do so.
I even had a bit of tough time with my iwata shooting base until I logged some time with it and purchased the base cap.
We usually team up when doing a complete, it does take a solid 8 hrs to position, clean, tape, spray and then it usually stays put for a day minimum.
I'd never follow clear over someone's base and I doubt you'd find someone to do so.
I even had a bit of tough time with my iwata shooting base until I logged some time with it and purchased the base cap.
We usually team up when doing a complete, it does take a solid 8 hrs to position, clean, tape, spray and then it usually stays put for a day minimum.
