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Selecting Connecting Rods for my L78 Build

L78fanatic

L78fanatic

Well-Known Member
Senior Member
Hey guys, While I await my Sealed Power L-2242NF 30 - Speed-Pro Forged Pistons from Summit, I've been reviewing connecting rods. Of course I'd love to go with Dimple Rods, but they are hard to find and the question exists whether or not to go with the stock 3/8" bolts or the beefier 7/16" bolt design. Plus, being old it's all about the condition. In my research, I found good reviews of the SCAT I-Beam Connecting Rods, and here is a link to one on eBay (I haven't verified if this is the correct one for me to use, but you can get the idea of the design):

www.ebay.com

Scat Connecting Rod Set 26135P; Pro Stock I-Beam 6.135" Pressed 2.2" Rod for BBC | eBay

SCAT rods are made from a 2-piece chromoly steel forging to ensure maximum strength and durability. Precision finished at SCAT on the newest and most modern machinery available by SCAT's master machinists.
www.ebay.com

I think this rod looks pretty good for the money.

What do you think? Any other advice? Floating or Press-Fit Pins?

Thanks,

John
 
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L78fanatic said:
Hey guys, While I await my Sealed Power L-2242NF 30 - Speed-Pro Forged Pistons from Summit, I've been reviewing connecting rods. Of course I'd love to go with Dimple Rods, but they are hard to find and the question exists whether or not to go with the stock 3/8" bolts or the beefier 7/16" bolt design. Plus, being old it's all about the condition. In my research, I found good reviews of the SCAT I-Beam Connecting Rods, and here is a link to one on eBay (I haven't verified if this is the correct one for me to use, but you can get the idea of the design):

www.ebay.com

Scat Connecting Rod Set 26135P; Pro Stock I-Beam 6.135" Pressed 2.2" Rod for BBC | eBay

SCAT rods are made from a 2-piece chromoly steel forging to ensure maximum strength and durability. Precision finished at SCAT on the newest and most modern machinery available by SCAT's master machinists.
www.ebay.com

I think this rod looks pretty good for the money.

What do you think? Any other advice? Floating or Press-Fit Pins?

Thanks,

John
Click to expand...

I think they look good, but I don't have much experience with engine rebuilding. Hopefully someone else can chime in shortly.
 
Callies has a quality inexpensive rod line called Compstar, Callies is the ones who finish Scat cranks so they probably do the final finish work on the Scat rods too but that's just a guess, I have Manley H beams from Wolfplace, I'd give him a call or/and CNC Motorsports Edit buying from these guys I wouldn't bother taking to a machine shop to get "fixed" Ebay stuff would go to a machine shop...MO $$ Or call Vortecpro to see has Recond. rods for sale??
 
L78fanatic said:
Hey guys, While I await my Sealed Power L-2242NF 30 - Speed-Pro Forged Pistons from Summit, I've been reviewing connecting rods. Of course I'd love to go with Dimple Rods, but they are hard to find and the question exists whether or not to go with the stock 3/8" bolts or the beefier 7/16" bolt design. Plus, being old it's all about the condition. In my research, I found good reviews of the SCAT I-Beam Connecting Rods, and here is a link to one on eBay (I haven't verified if this is the correct one for me to use, but you can get the idea of the design):

www.ebay.com

Scat Connecting Rod Set 26135P; Pro Stock I-Beam 6.135" Pressed 2.2" Rod for BBC | eBay

SCAT rods are made from a 2-piece chromoly steel forging to ensure maximum strength and durability. Precision finished at SCAT on the newest and most modern machinery available by SCAT's master machinists.
www.ebay.com

I think this rod looks pretty good for the money.

What do you think? Any other advice? Floating or Press-Fit Pins?

Thanks,

John
Click to expand...
Wolfplace recommended them to me as part of the rotating assy I bought from him.
Much stronger than any stock rod IMHO.
The H beam rods are a little more, I think $100 more; the I beam rods are a little over $300.
I got the floating ends. Don't get press fit; if you ever have to remove a piston, it can be destroyed in the process.
 
Nashville Cat said:
Wolfplace recommended them to me as part of the rotating assy I bought from him.
Much stronger than any stock rod IMHO.
The H beam rods are a little more, I think $100 more; the I beam rods are a little over $300.
I got the floating ends. Don't get press fit; if you ever have to remove a piston, it can be destroyed in the process.
Click to expand...

Original L78 Dimple Rod pins were pressed fit but I realize the technology has gotten better. Nothing wrong with my old engine except for a few broken valve springs. If I go more $ the the Scat I-beam comes with floating pins and they are polished. Cost is about $400. I believe these are good rods but just not sure.
 
IMHO I'd rather buy from a well respected Pro engine builder so you know 100% what you're getting, buying from someone on Ebay could be selling 2nds or Blems or maybe nothings wrong but you'd still want to pay $ to have them checked so IMHO it's a wash or you could even end up spending more $ getting them corrected, JMHO
 
Shovelrick said:
IMHO I'd rather buy from a well respected Pro engine builder so you know 100% what you're getting, buying from someone on Ebay could be selling 2nds or Blems or maybe nothings wrong but you'd still want to pay $ to have them checked so IMHO it's a wash or you could even end up spending more $ getting them corrected, JMHO
Click to expand...
I agree Rick. The eBay seller replied to my questions but I won’t buy from eBay. I’ve been getting a lot from Summit, including my Howards Cams cam, solid lifters, and springs. Magnum Rockers & Pushrods from Comp Cam thru Summit. I just want to figure out what Rods to use...the Callies H-rods look awesome but almost $700...that’s more than the forged Pistons! Rods are probably the most important part of the internal combustion engine so I don’t want to skimp tho.

My problem is I had an engine builder near me but I’ve decided to go elsewhere. He’s very old school, a well respected engine guy but he’s older than me & I believe he’s backing out of business...he doesn’t communicate well at all, so he’s not gonna build my engine. This is one part I may leave up to the builder. Other than the connecting rods and a 6223 Crankshaft I pretty much have everything for my build.

Btw, I am building a numbers date correct 1967 L78 Engine (as close to stock as possible). When it’s done it will look exactly what my engine looked like in my 1967 SS. Then I will look for a suitable car to put it in to match my original Chevelle. My current EG block was built at Tonawanda the very same day my car was assembled in Kansas City.....June 9, 1967!
 
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I think Callies sells the Compstar in an I beam too but Im not 100% sure, when I was looking to buy parts to put my 489 together I was looking between Callies Compstar, a bal kit from CNC Motorsports and Lewis Racing engines aka Wolfplace and went with Mike since he personally does his work and he's the guy on the phone, or his wife 👍👍🙂
 
L78fanatic said:
I agree Rick. The eBay seller replied to my questions but I won’t buy from eBay. I’ve been getting a lot from Summit, including my Howards Cams cam, solid lifters, and springs. Magnum Rockers & Pushrods from Comp Cam thru Summit. I just want to figure out what Rods to use...the Callies H-rods look awesome but almost $700...that’s more than the forged Pistons! Rods are probably the most important part of the internal combustion engine so I don’t want to skimp tho.

My problem is I had an engine builder near me but I’ve decided to go elsewhere. He’s very old school, a well respected engine guy but he’s older than me & I believe he’s backing out of business...he doesn’t communicate well at all, so he’s not gonna build my engine. This is one part I may leave up to the builder. Other than the connecting rods and a 6223 Crankshaft I pretty much have everything for my build.

Btw, I am building a numbers date correct 1967 L78 Engine (as close to stock as possible). When it’s done it will look exactly what my engine looked like in my 1967 SS. Then I will look for a suitable car to put it in to match my original Chevelle. My current EG block was built at Tonawanda the very same day my car was assembled in Kansas City.....June 9, 1967!
Click to expand...
I remember Bill aka Billdini had a Howards hyd flat tappet & lifter kit go flat at break in and he did everything right, are you using a roller cam? if not I'd send the Howards cam back and call CamKing Mike Jones for one of his U.S.A. made kits, JMO
 
Mike Lewis is a good source for parts and he will be up front with you about buying options. Nothing wrong with scat stuff or callies compstar. I use I beam stuff and personally prefer it over H beam stuff. AKA Wolfplace
 
Shovelrick said:
I remember Bill aka Billdini had a Howards hyd flat tappet & lifter kit go flat at break in and he did everything right, are you using a roller cam? if not I'd send the Howards cam back and call CamKing Mike Jones for one of his U.S.A. made kits, JMO
Click to expand...
My Howards cam is a Flat Tappet Solid Lifter American Muscle Camshaft with a slightly higher lift than the stock L78 cam. Howards references the same GM part no. (# 3904362) as the original L78 cam. I need to have press-fit pins since my pistons (still on order) - Sealed Power L-2242NF-30, Speed Pro Forged Pistons come with pressed-fit pins. A good friend has the exact same cam in his '69 L78 Chevelle SS and it's been marvelous, so that's one reason I went with Howards. I could be wrong, but I don't believe Howards Cams are imported. They have their own equipment. One reason I went with them instead of Elgin and others.
 
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I've used Howard's many times and they do use the good cores. Did Billdini ever respond on which valve springs he used?
 
Friction is friction and friction is resistance. Floating pins have less friction.
 
cheveslakr said:
I've used Howard's many times and they do use the good cores. Did Billdini ever respond on which valve springs he used?
Click to expand...
I'm not sure if he used the springs that came on the Summit/Dart heads or bought the springs to match the cam as a Cam, Lifter, Springs kit? I can ask though
 
Shovelrick said:
I'm not sure if he used the springs that came on the Summit/Dart heads or bought the springs to match the cam as a Cam, Lifter, Springs kit? I can ask though
Click to expand...
I bought the Howards springs as they recommended. I didn’t just order I called and spoke with them each time. They were very straight with me...even recommended the Comp Cams rockers over their own!
 
KwikSS said:
Friction is friction and friction is resistance. Floating pins have less friction.
Click to expand...
The pressed fit pins don't move at all in the piston but the pin rotates on the rod, so there really isn't any advantage when it comes to friction.
The advantage with floating pins is when you disassemble a piston from a rod, with a pressed in pin, sometimes the piston is damaged during removal.
This doesn't happen with floating pins. I had a piston ruined by a clueless auto shop guy.
 
If you don’t have to take an engine apart there’s no issues then. My original L78 was something to behold and it did just fine with domed pistons with pressed pins and dimple rods. Anyone who drove a car back in the day with that marvelous L78 engine can relate. If this engine can match that one I’m a happy camper. Then there’s that “sound” with solid lifters and headers! That’s my dream come true! No doubt some of the mods I’m making will most likely improve things to boot (like larger exhaust valves). I just need for the connecting rods to be up to the task. So far, I believe the Scat Rods are very good for the money. I haven’t bought them yet however, so I’m open to more suggestions.
 
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Nashville Cat said:
The pressed fit pins don't move at all in the piston but the pin rotates on the rod, so there really isn't any advantage when it comes to friction.
The advantage with floating pins is when you disassemble a piston from a rod, with a pressed in pin, sometimes the piston is damaged during removal.
This doesn't happen with floating pins. I had a piston ruined by a clueless auto shop guy.
Click to expand...
Also if the pin doesn't move in the rod the piston and pin stay in a constant wear position. With floaters the wear is distributed much more evenly each rotation. "Longevity"
 
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