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- Thread starter Andy69
- Start date
Chevelle_Nut
Shop Foreman
When at temp are you getting power to the relay? Beyond the relay? Can you jump the connection for the relay and make the fan work?
Shouldn't there be a "temperature switch" in that circuit. Not a temp sender ?
kmakar
Janitor
When I briefly looked, I couldn't see where the harness was getting the info from to kick the fans on which is why I wired my own.
I left the temp sender in place wired (and it works), but added my own harness with a 160 degree temp switch (with relay) in an aluminum collar mounted inline on the upper radiator hose.
My thermostat opens at about 165 degrees, sends coolant through the radiator hose, activates the switch and kicks the fans on. Works perfectly.
I left the temp sender in place wired (and it works), but added my own harness with a 160 degree temp switch (with relay) in an aluminum collar mounted inline on the upper radiator hose.
My thermostat opens at about 165 degrees, sends coolant through the radiator hose, activates the switch and kicks the fans on. Works perfectly.
Ah. OK, I think this makes sense. The temp sender is for the dash but the fan still needs a temp switch. There should have been one with the kit maybe?
cage2592
Administrator
Depends. Can you post the part number or picture of the kit? I have bought fan kits with just the fan. Like Kevin, I like to do my own wiring using a good relay. Though I would trust a SPAL kit and Painless Wiring. On my own 70, I run a regular on/off switch and not a temp switch.
I bought the universal single fan relay kit from Autowire. It didn't come with the switch. I'll have to add one. Not sure where though. Seems like I would want it to be between the thermostat and the radiator inlet.
kmakar
Janitor
With my new AAW harness a temp switch was not included. I bought a 180 temp switch (although I'm going to drop it to a 160) and made my own harness and just used the power from the block (has an efan circuit). I bought a stub, cut the hose and put it between right at the radiator and wired it there.
cage2592
Administrator
I've used the 'temp sensor' that pushes in the radiator, hose mounted, radiator drain plug mounted, and thermostat housing mounted. If you have a dual sensor thermostat housing, you could put both the sensor and switch it there. Or one in housing and the other in the intake passage.
My setup is a thermo sender in the thermostat housing for the gauge. My electric fan is a on/off switch. For the summers, when I start the car, back out the drive, and put it in FWD gear, I turn on the switch. I have a 160* thermostat. My and others philosophy is, dont wait till it gets to ???* and start cooling the engine. Its easier to cool an engine from the beginning than to wait for it to reach a temp and then try to cool. On the colder days like this morning, I didn't even turn on the fan. All that and a standard copper radiator and I never see temps above 175-180* in the hottest of days idling.
My setup is a thermo sender in the thermostat housing for the gauge. My electric fan is a on/off switch. For the summers, when I start the car, back out the drive, and put it in FWD gear, I turn on the switch. I have a 160* thermostat. My and others philosophy is, dont wait till it gets to ???* and start cooling the engine. Its easier to cool an engine from the beginning than to wait for it to reach a temp and then try to cool. On the colder days like this morning, I didn't even turn on the fan. All that and a standard copper radiator and I never see temps above 175-180* in the hottest of days idling.
I put a temp sensor in the manifold like Mike has in the red circle and used a Hayden adjustable Tstat on a relay on 1 of the 2 Windstar fans the 2nd fan is on another relay on the IGN spade at the fuse box