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Quite possibly a very stupid ammeter question

JohnC

Veteran Member
Senior Member
The C10 has an issue where the ammeter doesn’t seem to work very well. It’s stays centered and deflect only minimally. It also seems to move the wrong direction. If I rev the engine the needle moves slightly toward discharge. My Dad replaced the gauge at one point. Not sure the issue with the original but perhaps true same thing.

I checked the two fuses on the core support and they’re good.
Regarding the needle seemingly moving the wrong direction it’s not possible to simple swap wires because the gauge is fed by one of those flexible circuit boards deals.

I asked my Dad about it and he seems to remember the problem seemed to start many years ago when the alternator voltage regulator stopped working and he replaced the alt with an internally regulated single wire alt. Not sure if this has anything to do with it.

Is there anyway to bench test an ammeter? See if the gauge moves as it should?

Thanks
 
Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I suspect the gauge was tied to the external voltage regulator.
 
Have you checked voltage at the battery while it's running and give a few light revs to see if voltage increases?
 
Wired backwards? If it is charging and showing discharge this is a possibility.

"Regarding the needle seemingly moving the wrong direction it’s not possible to simple swap wires because the gauge is fed by one of those flexible circuit boards deals."

Unless it was wired wrong under the hood (not likely) it can't be wired backwards. His father went from an external regulator type to a single wire alternator (like you just installed on your tractor), so it no longer goes through the external regulator which is why I suspect the lead to power the ammeter came from the external regulator.
 
"Regarding the needle seemingly moving the wrong direction it’s not possible to simple swap wires because the gauge is fed by one of those flexible circuit boards deals."

Unless it was wired wrong under the hood (not likely) it can't be wired backwards. His father went from an external regulator type to a single wire alternator (like you just installed on your tractor), so it no longer goes through the external regulator which is why I suspect the lead to power the ammeter came from the external regulator.
Anything is possible, I have run into strange stuff. After so many years and many people working on things stuff just can be flat done wrong.
 
Anything is possible, I have run into strange stuff. After so many years and many people working on things stuff just can be flat done wrong.

I wasn't arguing with you Jon, but based on what John said, I didn't see that as the problem, but since neither of us can see it directly, neither of us can say with a certainty. Anything is possible.
 
I wasn't arguing with you Jon, but based on what John said, I didn't see that as the problem, but since neither of us can see it directly, neither of us can say with a certainty. Anything is possible.
It is amazing some of the hackery. Being a C10, depending on year, electronics could be minimal, who knows maybe a wrong gauge was installed.
 
Thanks folks. I’ll check to see whether the ammeter is fed from the external voltage regulator.

I’ll also check the battery voltage when the engine is rev’d

I’m pretty sure he got the ammeter from LMC so it should be the right one.

It’s a pretty unmolested truck. There no hackery of the wiring harness.
 
Well a little internet search confirms this is almost certainly an issue created by the single wire alternator. I’m the kind of person who if it’s on my car I want it to work even if it’s not really necessary. Problem is I haven’t found a “fix” that I’m confident in. Most threads are “yup, that’s your problem. Why do you want an ammeter anyway? They’re worthless.” Oh well. Maybe I’ll put the Malibus alternator in the truck and go back to externally regulated.
 
Good call. The ammeter will have to be wired differently and possibly replaced with a 1 wire alternator. The 3 wire alternator with an external voltage regulator will feed a wire to the stock ammeter.
 
I’d go with a newer type electronic ext regulator But if you want a new in the box point type you can have the new (a cpl yr sitting in a tool box) just pay post office, I mailed a 30 lb convertor yesterday and was $46.26 so I’m guessing under $10 in a Post Office small box
 
Nice offer. I’ll have to check mine. It might be that the voltage regulator isn’t even bad.
Thanks
I was having dimming/ bright light issues after I put a Load Boss 135 amp 3 wire alt on my car so I called Load Boss and the owner told me I needed an electronic ext reg with their alternators so I did that and no more problems, my under dash volt gauge bounced a lot before the electronic reg too
 
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