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Noise On Startup (I Am LIVID)

1971Chevelle

1971Chevelle

Veteran Member
Senior Member
I just barely got this engine installed back in February. To say that I am livid that it has this noise is an understatement. It happens only on startup after it has sat for a little bit (either overnight or yesterday when it did it again after being parked for just a few minutes). I am going to get under the car right now to make sure that the torque converter bolts are tight, but I am hoping that someone can tell where the noise is coming from if it isn't the bolts.

I also discovered two coolant leaks on the intake. Couple that with the oil leaks at the front AND rear (balancer seal and the rear main seal) that were discovered the NEXT day after the first startup, and you have someone who is exceedingly ticked off right now.

Please view the two videos and let me know what you think. Thanks in advance.

www.dropbox.com

Engine Noise 10-18-2021

Shared with Dropbox
www.dropbox.com www.dropbox.com
 
From what I hear something is definitely hitting and sounds like (and from what I can see) you have to keep goosing it to keep it running. Sound is clearest at 21 to 24 seconds (second video).

Kinda sounds like the starter's not disengaging.
 
kmakar said:
From what I hear something is definitely hitting and sounds like (and from what I can see) you have to keep goosing it to keep it running. Sound is clearest at 21 to 24 seconds (second video).

Kinda sounds like the starter's not disengaging.
Click to expand...

I am goosing it because the engine is cold and I don't use a choke. The starter is not staying engaged (that would produce a grinding noise).
 
1971Chevelle said:
I am goosing it because the engine is cold and I don't use a choke. The starter is not staying engaged (that would produce a grinding noise).
Click to expand...

Not always. I had a starter that engaged and was slow to disengage (I think there was something wrong with the shaft), but it would eventually disengage, but never made a grinding noise. Could never figure it out until the starter died (only a month later), and when I pulled it out to have it tested, that's when we saw what was happening.

I'm assuming the bolts for the torque converter are not loose, otherwise the noise would persist. Is it a bottom end noise or top end noise, or are you unable to isolate it?
 
All three of the torque converter bolts were loose. I pulled them out and applied blue loctite to them. We will see what happens when I start it up tomorrow.
 
With my limited Engine experience with my Engines over the years
i always go to the Expert Builders on this type of thing
However
the First Video sounds like Rockers & Guide Plates
the 2nd Video sounds like there is a lot more going wrong/on

Do not feel to bad it happens to us all when we cannot do it ourselves
had a Engine Built by a Rep Engine Builder in 2013 and after babying it for 2 years
she blew two Guides up and scourged some Rockers / Lifters ETC.
This was found by my Pro Racer/Mechanic who was just going to TuneUp the Old 750 Holley for me
he notice this just by the Ticking Sound of the Motor

427-336998db2abf6cb9a3d624bbdf9eda80.jpg
425-078e9b1e60d7f885920b9eeee324b06d.jpg
424-989c8e293ef5aa8f4f2931e8e6778a5d.jpg
431-a0c33b9cd27c3bd1e3fd6ba830498ee7.jpg
 
Kirk’s67SS said:
With my limited Engine experience with my Engines over the years
i always go to the Expert Builders on this type of thing
However
the First Video sounds like Rockers & Guide Plates
the 2nd Video sounds like there is a lot more going wrong/on

Do not feel to bad it happens to us all when we cannot do it ourselves
had a Engine Built by a Rep Engine Builder in 2013 and after babying it for 2 years
she blew two Guides up and scourged some Rockers / Lifters ETC.
This was found by my Pro Racer/Mechanic who was just going to TuneUp the Old 750 Holley for me
he notice this just by the Ticking Sound of the Motor

427-336998db2abf6cb9a3d624bbdf9eda80.jpg
425-078e9b1e60d7f885920b9eeee324b06d.jpg
424-989c8e293ef5aa8f4f2931e8e6778a5d.jpg
431-a0c33b9cd27c3bd1e3fd6ba830498ee7.jpg
Click to expand...

Once the initial noise goes away, there are no other noises. The valve train is quiet. See my post just above yours.
 
kmakar said:
Not always. I had a starter that engaged and was slow to disengage (I think there was something wrong with the shaft), but it would eventually disengage, but never made a grinding noise. Could never figure it out until the starter died (only a month later), and when I pulled it out to have it tested, that's when we saw what was happening.

I'm assuming the bolts for the torque converter are not loose, otherwise the noise would persist. Is it a bottom end noise or top end noise, or are you unable to isolate it?
Click to expand...

I did not notice any marks on the flex plate when I was under there, and I would presume that there would be if the starter was hanging up.
 
True. I had to replace my flywheel as the teeth were a bit chewed I assume after the starter gear disengaged. Did you use older bolts for the torque converter? I've always used new because a trans builder told me that once used they chuck them because they do loosen. I've also used pressed nuts to prevent them from backing off.

Glad it was the torque converter bolts. Easy fix.
 
kmakar said:
True. I had to replace my flywheel as the teeth were a bit chewed I assume after the starter gear disengaged. Did you use older bolts for the torque converter? I've always used new because a trans builder told me that once used they chuck them because they do loosen. I've also used pressed nuts to prevent them from backing off.

Glad it was the torque converter bolts. Easy fix.
Click to expand...

I won't know if that was the issue until I start it up tomorrow morning. I am going to call the transmission shop this week to find out if it is okay to use either high quality star washers or lock washers with the washer head bolts. If they loosen up again, then I will use lock nuts if they approve.
 
1971Chevelle said:
I won't know if that was the issue until I start it up tomorrow morning. I am going to call the transmission shop this week to find out if it is okay to use either high quality star washers or lock washers with the washer head bolts. If they loosen up again, then I will use lock nuts if they approve.
Click to expand...

I use locknuts without lockwashers. I call them pressed nuts because you can easily identify them with indentations usually on the sides. I've never had one back off ever. To me it's one of those "set it and forget it" things.
 
kmakar said:
I use locknuts without lockwashers. I call them pressed nuts because you can easily identify them with indentations usually on the sides. I've never had one back off ever. To me it's one of those "set it and forget it" things.
Click to expand...

That only works if your torque converter uses bolts and nuts. Mine has lugs on it, so it is only bolts that attach it.
 
Sorry, didn't know. Are they through holes? If so then maybe the locknuts on the backside to cinch them tight.
 
1971Chevelle said:
Aftermarket converter. Using the bolts that the company supplies with it.
Click to expand...
Sounds to me like a clearance issue for the bolts. You might want to rotate the converter and see if they are rubbing the block, will be hard to see. Also make sure they are installed in the proper direction.
 
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