Kiefer Racing Team
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- Thread starter Derek69SS
- Start date
Kiefer Racing Team
Derek69SS
Veteran Member
2019 autocross season was humbling. I had somewhat expected to get right back into it and to be a contender in some bigger events, but after 8 years away from the sport, a lot had changed. The competition had gotten a lot faster, and I wasn't driving as well as I could. I fought brake lock-up on corner entry all season and just couldn't get the feel for that edge with a hydroboost.
I did quite a bit of local autocross, and a little travelling with it. Goodguys Des Moines was its first event of the year. We drove it to the Northern Ohio Chevelle Show 1400mi round trip, averaging about 18-19mpg running 80-85mph. I was awarded a "top 50" at that show of about 300 Chevelles. The car stayed mostly together all season, with only minor issues... I did have to replace the water-pump in the middle of the Northern Ohio Chevelle Show after it had started leaking at Dragway 42 the night before. I trailered it to LS Fest in Bowling Green, but had kind of disappointing results there.
At the end of the season, I started to focus on just having fun, and stopped putting pressure on myself to be fast... and that's exactly what I needed to finally start getting faster.
I did quite a bit of local autocross, and a little travelling with it. Goodguys Des Moines was its first event of the year. We drove it to the Northern Ohio Chevelle Show 1400mi round trip, averaging about 18-19mpg running 80-85mph. I was awarded a "top 50" at that show of about 300 Chevelles. The car stayed mostly together all season, with only minor issues... I did have to replace the water-pump in the middle of the Northern Ohio Chevelle Show after it had started leaking at Dragway 42 the night before. I trailered it to LS Fest in Bowling Green, but had kind of disappointing results there.
At the end of the season, I started to focus on just having fun, and stopped putting pressure on myself to be fast... and that's exactly what I needed to finally start getting faster.
Derek69SS
Veteran Member
I didn't change much over the winter of 2019/2020 other than removing the hydroboost and changing to manual brakes. First time out for a cruise in spring of 2020, my 8:1 Sweet Mfg. steering box (new previous fall) had developed a pretty significant leak, and while looking at that, I noticed that I corded the inside edges of the front tires. I re-checked alignment and everything had moved. Less camber, and a lot of toe out led to discovering my lower A arms were just starting to collapse. Thankfully, SPC replaced them with their newer beefier version.
My first event of the year was, again, Goodguys Des Moines.
My first event of the year was, again, Goodguys Des Moines.
Derek69SS
Veteran Member
It was a combination of multiple factors... design was poor, tubing size too small and weld in the middle of the bend made a weak spot. Also, tires got a lot stickier in a short amount of time since they were designed. 200tw "street" tires are now as good as Hoosier slicks were in 2010.
kmakar
Janitor
Looks like they changed the design and that improvement alone should have made a big difference.
Derek69SS
Veteran Member
Yeah, the other thing about when these came out, there were very few people running more than a 245mm tire in the front. Most of the PT cars were still running 8" wheels in front. The fastest guys were running 265 - 275mm on 9" or 9.5" wheels, and the "fast" tires cost $800/set and would last 2-3 seasons.
Now, I'm running 10.5" front wheels with 295s that cost $1800/set and last half a season.
Now, I'm running 10.5" front wheels with 295s that cost $1800/set and last half a season.
Derek69SS
Veteran Member
Yeah, I chose those arms because at the time they were the only ones that offered additional caster from the lower arms (moving the lower balljoint forward about 1/2"). I would use UMI CornerMax if I was starting over today, because I like their lower drop out center design better.
I'm still a huge fan of SPC's adjustable uppers though.
Derek69SS
Veteran Member
That was done winter of 2020/2021... we'll get there soon.
Great thread
Derek69SS
Veteran Member
2020, all things considered, turned out to be a pretty awesome season. The change to manual brakes resulted in more consistency, and with more focus on driving better I made noticeable gains against the laptimes some of my faster friends. At the beginning of the 2020 season, with things getting shut down due to COVID, I was unsure how many events I would be able to attend, so I made the decision to run cheap tires (Federal 595RS-PRO) By the end of the season, I was finally within range where better tires might have made up the rest of the difference. I had a few hiccups and breakdowns, but got lucky with some easy repairs and only needing the trailer once for less than 60 miles.
We also spent a lot of time with some really fun people...
We also spent a lot of time with some really fun people...
Derek69SS
Veteran Member
With no karting league at the beginning of winter due to covid, and waiting for parts to come in I made a decision to cut up the rear suspension and change the converging 4-link to a parallel 3-link. Getting decent geometry while keeping the back seat is a challenge. The result is an 11" upper link, offset 9" from center, and a lot of adjustability for anti-squat.
Instant center location is improved a lot over stock, all roll-bind is eliminated, and I have full freedom to adjust roll-center height. The only unknown is whether the 9" offset will work... I'm not smart enough to figure out the math needed to calculate that, so I will just try it and if it doesn't work, I will add a link to the other side and turn it into a parallel 4-link.
I also added a drain plug while it was apart... If you ever put a Ford 9" in anything, get the drain plug option. You're welcome.
Instant center location is improved a lot over stock, all roll-bind is eliminated, and I have full freedom to adjust roll-center height. The only unknown is whether the 9" offset will work... I'm not smart enough to figure out the math needed to calculate that, so I will just try it and if it doesn't work, I will add a link to the other side and turn it into a parallel 4-link.
I also added a drain plug while it was apart... If you ever put a Ford 9" in anything, get the drain plug option. You're welcome.
Derek69SS
Veteran Member
Spring of 2021, I decided to finally do a project I had wanted to do for about 12 years.
I bought a fiberglass hood from Glasstek, and modified it for functional heat extractors that I moulded into the hood and tied into the shape of the SS bulges. The holes are right behind the radiator, located in a low-pressure area and will help pull high-pressure air out from under the hood, significantly reducing aero-lift at high speeds, reducing under-hood temperatures, and increasing air flow through the radiator.
The fiberglass hood also removed 40 lbs of high-centered weight off the front of the car. (Stock hood 72.3 lbs, FG 32.3 lbs)
I bought a fiberglass hood from Glasstek, and modified it for functional heat extractors that I moulded into the hood and tied into the shape of the SS bulges. The holes are right behind the radiator, located in a low-pressure area and will help pull high-pressure air out from under the hood, significantly reducing aero-lift at high speeds, reducing under-hood temperatures, and increasing air flow through the radiator.
The fiberglass hood also removed 40 lbs of high-centered weight off the front of the car. (Stock hood 72.3 lbs, FG 32.3 lbs)
Derek69SS
Veteran Member
Over the years I had changed my opinion on a few things, and wasn't real fond of the smoothed rear tail panel painted body color anymore, so in 2021 I added the trim back on, and painted the panel satin black like a factory SS car.
I also moved the battery to the trunk to help balance the car, and bought a fiberglass trunk lid to help shed some weight.
I wanted to take advantage of the aero allowances for the classes I intend to run with. What you see here is a ridiculous looking 10" SCCA CAMT-legal spoiler. I also made an 8" version for USCA events. It will be easy enough to swap out size and adjust AOA depending on use... Big one at steep angle for low-speed events (autocross) and smaller ones laid back more for higher speeds (roadcourse)
I don't expect everyone to like it, but it is there for a purpose, and I will take any performance advantage I can get.
I also moved the battery to the trunk to help balance the car, and bought a fiberglass trunk lid to help shed some weight.
I wanted to take advantage of the aero allowances for the classes I intend to run with. What you see here is a ridiculous looking 10" SCCA CAMT-legal spoiler. I also made an 8" version for USCA events. It will be easy enough to swap out size and adjust AOA depending on use... Big one at steep angle for low-speed events (autocross) and smaller ones laid back more for higher speeds (roadcourse)
I don't expect everyone to like it, but it is there for a purpose, and I will take any performance advantage I can get.
Derek69SS
Veteran Member
As usual, completely changing the car meant re-learning how to drive and set it up the following season. The 3-link took a few events to get dialed in, but when I did, it really helped the car everywhere.
Having conventional spring/shock in the rear was limiting my ability to take advantage of the adjustable rear roll center as I could only find "rear" springs up to 250lb rate. I discovered that I could use a "front" spring from a QA1 hybrid coilover setup, which opened up a lot of options for spring rates. I moved to 350lb with great results, and plan to try 450lb next.
Changing anti-squat from 180% down to 110% really helped in both braking and driving off the corner. Eliminating all of the roll-bind made it more predictable mid corner.
I ran a few events with the steel hood and trunk back on it as I ran out of time doing the body work on the fiberglass parts.
Drove my Chevy to the Levee but the Levee was dry... stopped at the Buddy Holly crash site on the way home from Goodguys Des Moines.
Having conventional spring/shock in the rear was limiting my ability to take advantage of the adjustable rear roll center as I could only find "rear" springs up to 250lb rate. I discovered that I could use a "front" spring from a QA1 hybrid coilover setup, which opened up a lot of options for spring rates. I moved to 350lb with great results, and plan to try 450lb next.
Changing anti-squat from 180% down to 110% really helped in both braking and driving off the corner. Eliminating all of the roll-bind made it more predictable mid corner.
I ran a few events with the steel hood and trunk back on it as I ran out of time doing the body work on the fiberglass parts.
Drove my Chevy to the Levee but the Levee was dry... stopped at the Buddy Holly crash site on the way home from Goodguys Des Moines.
Derek69SS
Veteran Member
I was signed up for UMI Autocross Challenge 2021, and decided if I wanted a shot at winning an invite to KOTM, I'd need the fiberglass parts and the spoiler mounted. I didn't have time to get blocked smooth and painted, so I shot them with black epoxy primer and installed them unfinished for the rest of the summer.
Fresh 295/35/18 squared Yokohama A052s, as well as taking 40lbs off the front, 18.5lbs off the back, and adding the spoiler did the trick, as I won the invite by 0.059 second over 2 days.
Fresh 295/35/18 squared Yokohama A052s, as well as taking 40lbs off the front, 18.5lbs off the back, and adding the spoiler did the trick, as I won the invite by 0.059 second over 2 days.