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Reproduction Part Issues

Chevelle_Nut

Chevelle_Nut

Shop Foreman
My Gold 72 was put on the road in June, it was off the road for probably 16 years.

It is amazing how many things have to be addressed once the car is back into operation. It seems like most of the issues I am having are not reused original parts but the reproduction parts.

1. Two Master Cylinder failures.
2. Sail Panels bubbling.
3. Neutral Safety Switch failure
4, Turn signal switch failed.

I know the list isn't long but 3 of the 4 were safety items. The resellers know there are problems but they have no control over it. OEM parts are far superior to the parts at the parts distributers.
 
How'd your MCs fail? It's tempting to buya $40 mc, and I'm guilty, but any car I plan on keeping gets a oem SS sleeved rebuild. Cost is roughly $200. I've had cheapies leak and recently had one that would not pressurize the rear. Had it on and off twice and bench bled both times. The primary pushrod wasn't pushing the secondary rod past the inlet to draw fluid. Design flaw and proves there's no qc anymore. As for switches, I tear the oems apart and 90% of the time they're just gummed up or a contact has slipped out of place. I've even epoxied broken plastic on switches because I have 0 trust in repops.
 
A few years back there was a problem with quite a few people buying new brake proportioning or combination valves that ended up leaking. When I was working on my car I was collecting parts I intended on changing and that was one of the parts I bought. In the mean time I was reading about all these failures and hoped I didn't have one of these defective valves. Sure enough before I even got to bleed the brakes I had a puddle on the floor right under where the valve was mounted. Seeing I had replaced everything new in the brake system I had decided to use Silicone fluid which saved the freshly painted frame from having the paint destroyed. Seeing this part was something I felt was a safety concern I took a poll on another Chevelle Site trying to either pin point a manufactuer or vendor that was selling these defective valves. It seemed to be spread over a number of different vendors but the one I purchased my valve from was at the top of the list. Even though I had bought my valve way over a year in advance I informed the vendor of the poll I took and they sent me a new one anyways. I already had bought a valve from a different vendor that had the least amount of complaints and after about 7 years it still is working fine. I also had bought a Retro Sound Radio that crapped out in less than 250 miles. I had a new speedometer cable let go in about the first 250 miles also which I think was caused more from the cable not being able to go up to the back of the speedometer without a slight bend in it. The second cable lasted about 1200 miles but ended up ripping the stem off the back of the gauge where it screwed on to. Seeing I had to replace the guage at that point I decided to go with a GPS speedometer and eliminate the cable all together. So don't feel bad your not the only one that went through the new part blues.
 
cheveslakr said:
How'd your MCs fail? It's tempting to buya $40 mc, and I'm guilty, but any car I plan on keeping gets a oem SS sleeved rebuild. Cost is roughly $200. I've had cheapies leak and recently had one that would not pressurize the rear. Had it on and off twice and bench bled both times. The primary pushrod wasn't pushing the secondary rod past the inlet to draw fluid. Design flaw and proves there's no qc anymore. As for switches, I tear the oems apart and 90% of the time they're just gummed up or a contact has slipped out of place. I've even epoxied broken plastic on switches because I have 0 trust in repops.
Click to expand...
I have 2 72s. On my Gold 72 I installed a MC when restoring it, never really drove the car. When we got it back to NC from the paint and body the MC locked up tight to the point I had to have a tow rope attached to a truck to get it in the driveway after a quick road test. I replaced that one with another Advance Auto MC. That one lasted 1 month and then the brake light came on. Replaced it. The replacement had a bore issue, front brakes locking up again, had to put spacers between the MC and booster, problem fixed.

On my Bronze 72 I had rear brake issues. Bought a MC online because it had correct bleeders. Never worked, brake went to floor. Seller would not honor warranty. Bought an Advance Auto to replace it. I also had the Proportioning Valve rebuilt professionally. Brakes on it work fine now.
 
Still have the Original Dual MC for Manual Brakes on my 67

On another Note A month ago I Replaced the Factory Alternator on my 05 Ranger
2 weeks later it Failed // good thing is that the NAPA Garage fixed & replaced it for Free
 
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