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Polishing and Waxing

Chevelle_Nut

Chevelle_Nut

Shop Foreman
I don't know about you but polishing and waxing have never been my favorite thing to do. I have been working on the Excursion and the paint has started to show discoloration in a couple of places on the roof and hood. I haven't waxed it in years. So I am using a polish and then wax, with a power polisher of course, and she is coming around but man that thing has a lot of real estate. All I have left are the sides and front bumper. 3 days to do hood, roof and tail gate area.
 
When we bought our Ex used it hadn't been buffed or polished in years. Took me a week to do the whole thing, but yeah, the roof was a mother. Standing on a ladder for so long my calves were killing me for days.
 
kmakar said:
When we bought our Ex used it hadn't been buffed or polished in years. Took me a week to do the whole thing, but yeah, the roof was a mother. Standing on a ladder for so long my calves were killing me for days.
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I did the roof in stages, about 6 hrs total time.
 
What took me the longest was getting the road grime and tar off sides without destroying the paint. Must have gone through 2 cans of WD40 to get it off, but boy when I was done, it was pretty, almost like off the showroom floor.
 
Im going through this now on some of our vehicles showing wear. Went and bought a 6" DA polisher, all the proper pads, rags and lotions

Been following this guy on YT for some time.

Im using (in this order)
1. Wash with a degreaser car soap. Dish soap works good as it removes greas and oil.
2. 3D Cutting Compound 501 (if heavy marks in paint)
3. 3D finishing polish 502 or 520 (Can start with this if its light imperfections)
4. Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Liquid Wax.

Fixes most corrections.
 
Lisa just saw the pics and she reminded me she wasn't happy I sold her Excursion..... I hope that doesn't set the mood for today.
 
cage2592 said:
I'm actually looking for a 7.3 Excursion now.
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2000 is the last year of the cast iron block (that's the year we had). Spacious as all getout, and she could pull a house. I have to admit I do miss it. It was the best SUV (real SUV) we ever had, but with the kids all grown, couldn't see keeping it.
 
I have a plenty big diesel truck for towing now as it is. So not worrying about pulling or lack of power from a gas. Wanting the 7.3 was mainly because of parts availability and longevity. Everyone I know that has a 7.3 are over 400,000 miles with minor maintenance to the engine. Mostly just getting the Trans rebuilt at 250K - 350k mile mark. I also like the aftermarket parts availability for the fuel filters and pump to make them very accessible after the upgrades. They just seem like they go forever.

I'm also trying to stay away from a 4wd. Already have some of those as well and would never 4wd this anyway. A 2wd with a real locker is always an amazing upgrade. I see 4wd's that get stuck regularly out here in the country that are limited slips with still one tire in the front and one rear still spinning. Plenty of 2wds with a rear locker pulling them out.
 
cage2592 said:
I have a plenty big diesel truck for towing now as it is. So not worrying about pulling or lack of power from a gas. Wanting the 7.3 was mainly because of parts availability and longevity. Everyone I know that has a 7.3 are over 400,000 miles with minor maintenance to the engine. Mostly just getting the Trans rebuilt at 250K - 350k mile mark. I also like the aftermarket parts availability for the fuel filters and pump to make them very accessible after the upgrades. They just seem like they go forever.

I'm also trying to stay away from a 4wd. Already have some of those as well and would never 4wd this anyway. A 2wd with a real locker is always an amazing upgrade. I see 4wd's that get stuck regularly out here in the country that are limited slips with still one tire in the front and one rear still spinning. Plenty of 2wds with a rear locker pulling them out.
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My Ex is a standard axle and gets stuck in a snowflake.

My sister has a 2000 7.3l and it has basically become a farm truck at 500,000 miles. The 4R100 is the weak point of a 7.3l, the 6.0L has the 5R110. Carry a spare cam and crank sensor with you in a 7.3.

The problems with the 6.0L were most people tuned them and lifted the heads, not all are studded, in fact there are many 6.0l out there with head bolts and never had issues. I have done multiple upgrades to my truck without heavily modifying anything. Coolant filter, 170 AMP alternator, increased battery cable sizes, upgraded turbo boots, deeper transmission pan, air bags, upgraded EGR cooler, Hellwig rear sway bar etc.
 
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