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What’d you work on today?

I'm about 75% done installing a 3 ton (36k) Mr Cool mini-split.
Outside condenser is mounted on a pad and the inside air handler is hung on the wall bracket.
It will be hooked to my solar system. Plans are to hook two mini-split heat pumps, the fridge and freezer to solar.
I have a 1600 sq ft main floor with a walk-out basement. 36k mini-split on the main floor and 18k downstairs.
I paid a kid from across the street to help me lift the 36k inside air handler onto the wall bracket.
Pics :
Inside air handler mounted . The drywall had to be cut so I could run a drain line down to my kitchen sink drain
which is directly below the air handler

1665103445730.jpeg


1665102714174.jpeg

Pic of the air handler drain line tying into my kitchen sink drain. I found a barbed fitting that I was able to screw into the
PVC pipe. It cut it's own threads and I used pipe dope to make sure it sealed.
Need the correct hose clamp to finish this tomorrow :)

1665103192528.jpeg
 
Nashville Cat said:
I'm about 75% done installing a 3 ton (36k) Mr Cool mini-split.
Outside condenser is mounted on a pad and the inside air handler is hung on the wall bracket.
It will be hooked to my solar system. Plans are to hook two mini-split heat pumps, the fridge and freezer to solar.
I have a 1600 sq ft main floor with a walk-out basement. 36k mini-split on the main floor and 18k downstairs.
I paid a kid from across the street to help me lift the 36k inside air handler onto the wall bracket.
Pics :
Inside air handler mounted . The drywall had to be cut so I could run a drain line down to my kitchen sink drain
which is directly below the air handler

View attachment 8336


View attachment 8333

Pic of the air handler drain line tying into my kitchen sink drain. I found a barbed fitting that I was able to screw into the
PVC pipe. It cut it's own threads and I used pipe dope to make sure it sealed.
Need the correct hose clamp to finish this tomorrow :)

View attachment 8334
Click to expand...

Be careful as mini-splits are supposed to have an air gap with the drain (loose not connected to a fitting). It'd be wiser to tie in a p-trap and let it drip in without being clamped onto a fitting.
 
Nashville Cat said:
I'm about 75% done installing a 3 ton (36k) Mr Cool mini-split.
Outside condenser is mounted on a pad and the inside air handler is hung on the wall bracket.
It will be hooked to my solar system. Plans are to hook two mini-split heat pumps, the fridge and freezer to solar.
I have a 1600 sq ft main floor with a walk-out basement. 36k mini-split on the main floor and 18k downstairs.
I paid a kid from across the street to help me lift the 36k inside air handler onto the wall bracket.
Pics :
Inside air handler mounted . The drywall had to be cut so I could run a drain line down to my kitchen sink drain
which is directly below the air handler

View attachment 8336


View attachment 8333

Pic of the air handler drain line tying into my kitchen sink drain. I found a barbed fitting that I was able to screw into the
PVC pipe. It cut it's own threads and I used pipe dope to make sure it sealed.
Need the correct hose clamp to finish this tomorrow :)

View attachment 8334
Click to expand...
Hey if it's not too late be sure to use Nylog Blue on the flare fittings, I learned about that in a few Gree mini split classes and I Never have any leaks since, Don't use Nylog Red
 
kmakar said:
Be careful as mini-splits are supposed to have an air gap with the drain (loose not connected to a fitting). It'd be wiser to tie in a p-trap and let it drip in without being clamped onto a fitting.
Click to expand...
Not sure I understand.
The sink drain is vented through the roof so the drain pipe has no pressure on it to stop the flow ?
I'll be sure to check the drain for flow/leaks when the weather gets hot next year.
There won't be any flow in the drain until the humidity rises and the weather heats up.
Thanks for the heads up :)
 
If you plan on doing more by yourself a mini split bracket install helper is sold for around $200, I can't think of the name of it but have one at my shop that I'll post a pic of tomorrow, fanastic tool for installing these by yourself
 
Nashville Cat said:
Not sure I understand.
The sink drain is vented through the roof so the drain pipe has no pressure on it to stop the flow ?
I'll be sure to check the drain for flow/leaks when the weather gets hot next year.
There won't be any flow in the drain until the humidity rises and the weather heats up.
Thanks for the heads up :)
Click to expand...
Negative air pressure drain, best to have P trap
 
Shovelrick said:
Hey if it's not too late be sure to use Nylog Blue on the flare fittings, I learned about that in a few Gree mini split classes and I Never have any leaks since, Don't use Nylog Red
Click to expand...
You betcha ! I have a bottle and used it on my 18k install about 18 months ago in the basement.
I haven't connected the refrigerant lines yet but will definitely use nylog.

1665105732632.png
 
When the blower wheel is after the evap coil in air stream it should have a P trap, if blower is below evap coil No P trap
 
Nashville Cat said:
Mini-splits are two seperate units - inside air handler and outside condenser.
There is no seperate fan ?
Click to expand...
The indoor blower is basically above the coil so needs a P trap or it can suck air and tied to a household drain can suck bad fumes EDIT I told you Wrong the blower wheel is inside the 2 sides of the coil, I'll post a pic from my phone in a min, 4-5 brews LOL
 
Last edited:
Shovelrick said:
The indoor blower is basically above the coil so needs a P trap or it can suck air and tied to a household drain can suck bad fumes
Click to expand...
OK, I'm totally lost here.
Mini-splits have a catch pan that is under the cooling coils. It's just a tray that sits under the coils.
In hot weather, water drips off the cold coils and collects in the "catch pan."
The pan has a hose connected that funnels the water away.
There is no suction on the drain line. It's all done by gravity.
 
Let me put it this way....

When the mini split wasn't running you'd be getting sewer gases through the drain hose. Any stack pressure (wind blowing across the stack vent on your roof will force the gases through the tube. You need a p-trap to stop that. The drain hose can be loose in an extended vertical pipe of the p-trap.
 
When the unit runs WO a P trap it will pull air through the drain pipe and any sewer fumes, it's also against National code to tie ac drain to a sewer line, outdoor hot air too but with a P trap it can't pull outside air
 
Mitsubishi Ducted mini split systems Can Not drain properly with a P trap when in a Horz position like an attic since the blower is behind the coil Pushing air across the coil but when an attic type Horz unit blower is Pulling air across the coil it needs a P trap, Neg & Pos pressures on the drain line, I know this isnt your situation but thought Id mention it
 
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