Wilwood Big Brake kit

[Shovelrick]

This is a front 12” rotor kit I bought for our 68, kind of surprised at the fittings being a little rounded off and silver showing under the black finish (A returned set?) and I would’ve thought at least grade 8 hardware and Japan bearings ???

 

[Nashville Cat]

Those calipers will look good behind the front wheels

 

[Shovelrick]

Just noticed the rotor pic didn’t load and if I leave the rear calipers I’ll paint those black to match the front, This Old House lol has me so damn busy I hope I get a chance to work on the car before summer gets here

 

[JohnC]

17 in wheels minimum?

 

[BlueSS454]

I hope they work better for you than they did on the one car I put them on. Car didn't stop worth a shit.

 

[Shovelrick]

I ordered new flex lines today, I didn’t read enough and factory type don’t work, figures

 

[Derek69SS]

I hope they work better for you than they did on the one car I put them on. Car didn't stop worth a shit.

Could it have been solved with a MC bore size change, or a pad compound change?

 

[BlueSS454]

Could it have been solved with a MC bore size change, or a pad compound change?

I tried 3 different master cylinder bores and adjusting the valve through its cycle. Nothing worked. I had to literally stand on the brakes to hold it still at idle. They got marginally better once they had some heat in it but were still inadequate IMO. My 70 with stock discs stopped 100 times better.

 

[cage2592]

I have Wilwoods all the way around on my 70 and they have been amazing. 12.19" rotors. 15" minimum wheel dia. Mine are 18" fronts. I did replace my lines with the braided when I installed the brake kits.

The kit pictured above did look used.

 

[Shovelrick]

Finally got the front brakes replaced, bled the fronts a little while ago with a vac type bleeder but had to leave, going back later today to bleed the rear factory front D52 brakes then test drive and bed the pads, hoping the work better than the previous red D52 brakes did, the brakes on the rear are actually front D52 calipers that came in the kit I bought 12ish years ago, a No E brake kit

 

[Shovelrick]

I got a dumb question that I forgot the answer to, can you vac bleed brakes with the MC lid off as long as you don’t run it dry?

 

[77cruiser]

Yup.

 

[kmakar]

That's how I always bleed the brakes. Bleed a bit, check, add, bleed more. Backs are the ones I'm careful of since it'll dry the master cylinder out quick.

 

[Nashville Cat]

I got a dumb question that I forgot the answer to, can you vac bleed brakes with the MC lid off as long as you don’t run it dry?

Yes, that's how I've always done it. The lid needs to be off so the brake fluid will flow out smoothly.
If the lid is on, the fluid will resist flow (not good).

 

[Shovelrick]

Hum, bled all wheels till I got clean looking fluid, started her up and pedal goes to floor softly, before I started it it went to the floor too think I still have air in the system? Rear calipers were Red but I painted them an engine black to math fronts still 500* paint

 

[Molly's 70]

Looks fantastic!

 

[kmakar]

Hum, bled all wheels till I got clean looking fluid, started her up and pedal goes to floor softly, before I started it it went to the floor too think I still have air in the system? Rear calipers were Red but I painted them an engine black to math fronts still 500* paint

You'll need a 2 to 3 pumps to get them where they will sit. I usually bleed, then pump the brakes. then bleed again. May be overkill, but I always think better safe than sorry. I always do everything overkill anyways. It's my SOP.

 

[Shovelrick]

You'll need a 2 to 3 pumps to get them where they will sit. I usually bleed, then pump the brakes. then bleed again. May be overkill, but I always think better safe than sorry. I always do everything overkill anyways. It's my SOP.

So use the vac bleeder tool on all 4 wheels starting farthest first then pump pedal 2-3 times then vac bleed all 4 wheels again? It was 12ish yrs ago when I first put these brakes on and bled but the Mighty Vac did the job after getting all the SS lines seated to not leak, but I might have had Kathy pedaling the brake too? Been a long time lol

 

[kmakar]

So use the vac bleeder tool on all 4 wheels starting farthest first then pump pedal 2-3 times then vac bleed all 4 wheels again? It was 12ish yrs ago when I first put these brakes on and bled but the Mighty Vac did the job after getting all the SS lines seated to not leak, but I might have had Kathy pedaling the brake too? Been a long time lol

Yes. Bleed them all first, lock the bleeders, pump the brake 2 or 3 times (engine running with vacuum), shut it down, then bleed them again. When I bleed brakes I'll go through a full quart.

 

[Shovelrick]

Yes. Bleed them all first, lock the bleeders, pump the brake 2 or 3 times (engine running with vacuum), shut it down, then bleed them again. When I bleed brakes I'll go through a full quart.

I’m about out of the first Qt I’ll pick up another qt tomorrow after work and get back at it, I started the car and pumped 10-12 times but still went to the floor then I had more calls to go and take care of, nother busy day tomorrow but want to get this going since I’m anxious to see how it stops , on a side note I wish I could forward a few text messages from a customer agreeing to a price VIA text last Sept then I sign on to his permit a few months ago to install a new mini split in a garage conversion to a MIL apt, now he thinks the price is too high lol, I told him I’m taking my company name off the permit and told him to read back to his text from Sept where he agreed to the $2,800 price for complete installation including dryer vent and bath fan, Oh well let someone else deal with it