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I Think that Jegs is BS'ing Their Customers About "Made in USA"

71350SS+454

Active Member
So I'm shopping for a lift plate to pull an engine and I see this one at JEG's :
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/80097/10002/-1
and its $13.69 so that's OK but then I see this one that says mabe in the USA so I want to buy that one but its $41.99 ?
here it is :
Now here's the dilemma I have. To my eyes both of these plates look the exact same as each other and I think the only part that's really made in the USA is the
studs and nuts in the "Made in the USA" product thus making it legal to say its "made in the USA" and get some people to buy this one because some of us want to support
any product thats made here in America.
But take a good look and tell me that something made overseas and something that's made here should look at least a little different,right ? Both those plates are identical to each other. I'm of the opinion that only the hardware that comes with the USA kit is actually made here and so then they are charging way too much for the plate because that hardware kit isn't worth more than $28 and change to me.
I'll bet that made in the USA kit is a real profit maker right ?
Does anyone agree with what I see ? Or am I seeing something the wrong way ?
 
Look at the lift holes in the first one - they are round. The lift holes in the second one are oval. They are not the same plate.
 
Probably the same CAD file for the laser or waterjet used on the bottom plate, but different manufacturers used.
Jegs outsources all of their products, but they could be using an American manufacturer for one of them.
 
As a person who like to only buy and willing to pay more for good materials from the USA, if I ran into this delima, I look at materials. Not knowing what the cheap one's material thickness is would be an issue. I see the 'made in USA' has all measurements of thickness, dimensions, looks plated, etc... . I would tend to believe that by the looks and definition, the more expensive 'looks' better built.

Though I'm not impressed with either of them in the welds. I know that's not the specific one you are getting. But I would be throwing a bead on all those joints. to include the bottom where the vertical goes into the plate. But I made my own, so this is just an observation on those.
 
I bought one of those engine block stands (for my 396 block) a couple years back that you can roll the block around the shop on, and one of the mounting holes didn't line up where the block attaches. But, I needed to use the thing so I just went ahead and used it...block is fine on there but for the cost (it was inexpensive) my bet is it's not made in the USA thus the dilemma! :-( One just doesn't know anymore!
 
I prefer a chain going from 1 rear 3/8ths threaded hole in a head to the opposite front hole, I know I'm odd guy out just never trusted a manifold meant to hold down a carb

If it's an aluminum intake I won't use that engine lift bracket.

I built a 3' 1 1/2 schedule 40 steel pipe flanked by 2" flat bar welded on the top and bottom with strain steel welded at the lift point and at the ends where 4 chains hang and I'll lift from the manifold exhaust bolts.
 
And Never use a Jacaranda tree limb lol, in the mid 80's I pulled the 350 & T350 from my 73 Elky and dropped a 70 454/467 & built T350 in it using a chain across the top of the engine and a chainfall then had to lift the BB back up to get the headers in, then the limb broke :eek: But the engine dropped right where it needed to go and I still have all my fingers (y)(y) No one else around either so if it would've Bit me I'd been screwed
 
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