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Power to well at pond.

You really want the pump on a 20 amp dbl pole breaker and the other receps on they’re own breaker, the pump motor would probably fry beyond repair before tripping a 30 amp breaker
 
That panel won't do you any good, as the two breakers in it feed the receptacles below the breakers. I would just put in a 40 amp sub panel, then use a combo breaker (20 amp 2 pole in the center, two 20 amp single pole on the outside). Then you can pipe the pump directly into the panel, and install a couple of 20 amp receptacles below the panel.


This breaker would work, but it would be best to find the actual GE breaker for the panel.

 
You really want the pump on a 20 amp dbl pole breaker and the other receps on they’re own breaker, the pump motor would probably fry beyond repair before tripping a 30 amp breaker
I was going to use a 30A at the garage end.
 
I would also like either a timer or low press. shut off for the pump. Thoughts on that?
 

Too far for #10 to run the well pump and two 20 amp circuits.

If you just meant a duplex plug (1 plug really), then at bare minimum you'd need #8 to minimize voltage drop and you could run 1 DP 20 amp for the well and 1 single pole 20 for a receptacle.
 
Too far for #10 to run the well pump and two 20 amp circuits.

If you just meant a duplex plug (1 plug really), then at bare minimum you'd need #8 to minimize voltage drop and you could run 1 DP 20 amp for the well and 1 single pole 20 for a receptacle.
That would be enough I think the only other thing I would probably have is some kind of air pump for aeration.
 
That would be enough I think the only other thing I would probably have is some kind of air pump for aeration.

Cheapest way would be to buy a 500' & a 250' spool of #8 and put that into 3/4 carlon pvc and then ground the remote box with an 8' ground rod (don't run a ground from the garage).
 
Cheapest way would be to buy a 500' & a 250' spool of #8 and put that into 3/4 carlon pvc and then ground the remote box with an 8' ground rod (don't run a ground from the garage).
Can I ground to the well casing?
 
Cheapest way would be to buy a 500' & a 250' spool of #8 and put that into 3/4 carlon pvc and then ground the remote box with an 8' ground rod (don't run a ground from the garage).

Code requires a ground wire in the conduit (as far as I remember), plus it adds safety to the run. I would use 1" PVC (easier to pull through). #6 THHN, with a #10 ground. That will prevent any voltage drop (it will be just under 3% with #8, so you can use that if you want to). You can purchase the wire by the foot at Home Depot.
 
Code requires a ground wire in the conduit (as far as I remember), plus it adds safety to the run. I would use 1" PVC (easier to pull through). #6 THHN, with a #10 ground. That will prevent any voltage drop (it will be just under 3% with #8, so you can use that if you want to). You can purchase the wire by the foot at Home Depot.

That has been abandoned for the simple issue that if the ground originates at the panel and goes to the endpoint and there is a lightening strike or other underground issue, the charge will return to the main panel. Grounding at the endpoint gives the shortest path.
 
That has been abandoned for the simple issue that if the ground originates at the panel and goes to the endpoint and there is a lightening strike or other underground issue, the charge will return to the main panel. Grounding at the endpoint gives the shortest path.

I don't ever recall that being abandoned. The NEC still requires it. Perhaps there are some places in the country that don't make people do it, but I would never make a run without one - not worth the risk.
 
This is a pretty good explanation for why it is needed:

The purpose of the ground wire (in U.S. terminology) is to provide a path back to the source of the electrical current — the main electrical panel — in the event of a fault. Hopefully this current is enough to trip the breaker or blow the fuse. A fault might be something like having the hot live wire of an appliance touch its metal case.

The purpose of the ground wire is NOT to provide a path to the ground, or to some rod buried in the ground. I can’t stress that enough.

In the U.S. and the U.K., and I think in the rest of the world, our electrical system is grounded at the utility transformer. This means that at the transformer there’s a cable from the neutral terminal that goes into the ground. One big benefit of this type of grounded system is protection from lightning strikes.

Remember that electricity will always try to complete a circuit. It always wants to go back to where it came from. In our case that’s the utility transformer.

So here’s what the system looks like at the transformer:
main-qimg-ad4c0cbbd3129edc9adb8120849be059-lq

Things are a little different in other countries, but you get the idea. There are high voltage cables coming into the utility transformer, there are low voltage cables coming out and going into the house, and the neutral side at the transformer is connected directly into the ground.

So what happens if there’s a ground fault?

Here’s what things looked like before there was any grounding.
main-qimg-c135caebc0c649b57a5b82c688312cdc-lq

There’s no ground wire, but also no problems so we’re OK.

Now here’s what happens with no ground wire, but a ground fault is present.
main-qimg-adb76f716784c034369124d4c9d1d239-lq

If you touch the appliance case when it’s electrified then you might complete a path to the ground, and all the current is going through you. But there’s not nearly enough electrical current flowing through the circuit breaker, so it won’t trip off. There’s a good chance that you’ll be electrocuted. (Note though that if you’re not grounded then nothing might happen. You have to be completing a circuit for current to flow through you.) And remember that electricity always wants to complete a circuit, so the fault current here is going to try to get back to the grounded side of the transformer.

Now here’s what happens when we ground the appliance, and that ground wire goes back to the neutral bus bar in the electrical panel.
main-qimg-19f7cd323f949f5124204c906ddbc383-lq

We have a green ground wire going back to the neutral bus bar in the main panel. This wire has very low resistance and so the electrical current will easily flow through it. This also creates a short circuit condition, which will draw a lot of current and so trip off the breaker. That’s what we really want — for the circuit breaker to trip off. Note here that you’re still part of the circuit. But you’re in a parallel circuit to the ground wire, so most of the current will flow through the low resistance ground wire.

And here’s what happens if we try to ground to the earth instead of back to the neutral bus bar.
main-qimg-94f501073f7389018d7dad0af74e1ae0-lq

Again you’re part of a parallel electrical path. But the other path is trying to go through the ground — and of course back to the transformer. But the earth has too much resistance and so that path won’t be able to draw enough current to trip the breaker. So current will continue to flow through you and there’s a good chance that you’ll be electrocuted.

To summarize, the ground fault path has to have very low resistance so that it will quickly carry a lot of current in order to trip off the breaker. The only way to do this is with a wire going back to the neutral bus bar. If you try to ground into the earth then the fault current path will have too much resistance and it won’t trip off the breaker.
 
I understand your point, BUT, the ground and neutral in many instances is the same. Most boxes have a bonding screw the ties the ground bar to the neutral bar inside the box and everywhere I've ever been it is required.

Next, when I'm telling Jim to run power from his panel, there will be 3 wires, 2 hot legs, and the neutral, and NO ground. The ground is at the endpoint (subpanel in Jim's case at the pond location).
 
I understand your point, BUT, the ground and neutral in many instances is the same. Most boxes have a bonding screw the ties the ground bar to the neutral bar inside the box and everywhere I've ever been it is required.

Next, when I'm telling Jim to run power from his panel, there will be 3 wires, 2 hot legs, and the neutral, and NO ground. The ground is at the endpoint (subpanel in Jim's case at the pond location).

The neutral in a sub panel should not be bonded, which is why the ground wire is required. I would never make that run without one - too big of a risk.
 
The neutral in a sub panel should not be bonded, which is why the ground wire is required. I would never make that run without one - too big of a risk.

The neutral in a sub panel is NOT bonded, it's bonded only in the main panel, and that's why the ground is at the endpoint (subpanel).
 
The neutral in a sub panel is NOT bonded, it's bonded only in the main panel, and that's why the ground is at the endpoint (subpanel).

The ground must be connected to the origin point. I am done talking about this. I have never installed a sub panel without a ground in the conduit and I have installed close to 100 of them in my time (I was an electrician/foreman for several years). It is not worth the risk to someone's life to leave it out. The wire is not that expensive and makes for a better, safer installation.


 
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