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This site is completely free and there are no costs. Please enjoy and provide feedback.I like that idea. I don't know if I wanna go all the way and actually roll the frame out from under the body, or just lift it a foot or two. Wish I had a bigger garage!I lifted the body by the seatbelt anchor points.
Yep. They also like to kick back at you if you hit the edge at just the right angle. This happened the first time I used it. I was going along great and then.....Ditto on those paint/ rust removing discs. They are the cats meow. I got them on eBay and Amazon too for the 4.5 inch grinder. Be careful around edges as that tends to eat them up fast
Chicks dig scars so wear wear shorts a lot. J/k. Sorry about you accident.
Fortunately I’ve never been injured but have had them kick on me here and there. I have to admit I took the guard off one of mine to get into a tight place. This reminds me to go put that back on.
I might attempt removing the frame from my 67 vert. Anyone think I need to weld in diagonal braces for insurance to stiffen the body ?
The interior is bare and the engine / trans is out.
It's already been painted and I'm not going to remove the front fenders. So I would have to support everything from the radiator support to the trunk.
Agree. Jacking from the bottom while supporting almost everything will minimize twist. It might take a while !If you plan on leaving it assembled (including doors) you will get some twisting as there is no roof to hold the doors and jams.
If it were me, I'd jack from the bottom and put the body on a body rack (home made or bought), but that would be the safest bet.
Agree. Jacking from the bottom while supporting almost everything will minimize twist. It might take a while !
My friend was doing the body on a guys gutted out 65 Mustang Convertible. I went up to help him and the car was up on jackstands and he couldn't figure out why the door gaps had become wider. Instead of supporting the car from the front and rear suspension like it would have been when it was on the floor he supported it under the sides of the car in the interior area of the body. I went to the back of the car leaned on the trunk area and the gaps opened even more. Put the car back on the ground and the gaps were perfect so you would definitely be better by bracing the car.I might attempt removing the frame from my 67 vert. Anyone think I need to weld in diagonal braces for insurance to stiffen the body ?
The interior is bare and the engine / trans is out.
It's already been painted and I'm not going to remove the front fenders. So I would have to support everything from the radiator support to the trunk.
I sure would. Even welded braces in my first hardtop I pulled from the frame, a bit overkill though.I might attempt removing the frame from my 67 vert. Anyone think I need to weld in diagonal braces for insurance to stiffen the body ?
The interior is bare and the engine / trans is out.
It's already been painted and I'm not going to remove the front fenders. So I would have to support everything from the radiator support to the trunk.
You mean like this...I sure would. Even welded braces in my first hardtop I pulled from the frame, a bit overkill though.
I've used the seatbelt holes, and while I was successful, it's a bit more unstable than lifting the rear and setting it on saw horses with a cross beam, then lifting the front with a cherry picker, pulling from the firewall fender mounts or hooking from the lower cowl braces....then just rolling the frame out.