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Various paint questions….

JohnC

Veteran Member
Senior Member
As I mentioned before I painted my 67 Bolero red BC/CC late winter (shot a red tinted epoxy sealer first). Although it was pretty cool temperature and I used a fast reducer I had a lot of orange peel problems plus some little things I need to fix (bugs, runs etc). I’ve been lazy and life getting in the way so I have worked on it as much as I should have.

Currently car is wet sanded with 800 grit. Because my orange peel was pretty coarse I always thought that I’d be re-clearing it. I wasn’t comfortable that after taking the orange peel down flat that there’d be enough clear to buff without breaking through.

Even thought I was reasonably careful, I broke through a clear a handful of times on and edge etc.
Questions:
Is wet sanded with 800 a good base to apply sealer and/or clear?

Where I sanded through to base coat, my plan is to hit just those areas with 1 coat epoxy sealer, then re coat just that areas with BC then clear the whole car. Sound good?
I’ll paint small parts or a fender first to make sure I can lay it down flatter before shooting the whole car. I got more of the same clear (Tamco glamour clear) but with a slow reducer this time. Because our summers are pretty mild here it wouldn’t be hard to find a day in the 70s or low 80s to paint.

There are areas when I’m pretty happy with what I’ve got and don’t feel the need to re clear, like the door jams. Any tips on masking an area like that so you don’t get a hard tape edge line?

There’s also an area (inner edge of the fenders - the area that lies under the edge of the hood) where I got some heinous runs. I scraped down my runs and blocked with a piece of acrylic but still broke though small areas. Other areas are fine (acceptable orange peel) and I didn’t feel the need to flatten the clear. Can I just scotch bright scuff up the decent part, and reseal and BC the problem areas and reclear the whole panel? In other words I shouldn’t try to blend the clear - I should reclear the whole panel.

I’m happy with how my flattened clear layed out on my dash (it’s a different clear coat than the rest of the car) but I think it’s too flat. With this clear you can change gloss by changing mix ratio. Can I just scotch bright scuff the clear and shoot 2 coats of glossier clear over it? I hadn’t painted my AC ball bezels and glove box door yet. As long as I put paint then at the same time as I reclear the dash, the gloss should match? In other words does the old, duller clear on the dash alter the gloss level when I reclear it or is it really just the top layer that determines the gloss level?

Hope those make sense.
Anything that needs to be explained better let me know and thanks again for everything.
 
I have painted many parts and panels for myself. Though a body man I'm not. A lot of the issues you posted is why I like to use a two stage. Its more work but I like to fix my issues at each step like sand and then add another coat. I tried a nice single stage once and I couldn't get the color/clear to match from panel to panel.

Hopefully Derek will write in as I would trust his judgement and explanation.
 
Instead of resealing over the breakthroughs, reclear. Same protection, but it'll be void of pigment so you'll not have an issue with matching. You have some common problems with gun or setup, or just technique, not sure. Tell us your gun choice, air supply, air pressure, technique, temp, etc. and I'll try to be of help there.
 
Thanks. As far as resealing vs clear coating my sand throughs, I think your idea is great. Most of the sand through there is barely a discoloration so it makes more sense to clear then add some coats of base rather than starting over with the sealer.

I’ll post more about the gun tomorrow. It’s an Astro gun which I think is a Sata knockoff. It was considered a quality, inexpensive gun. Gun pressure I’ll look at the tech sheet but I’d guess is was 28# trigger pulled. Something in that range I think but I’ll check.

I’ve got an 80 gallon compressor so air volume isn’t a problem

My belief is that my clear coat problem was mostly due to using a fast activator. It seemed like the right thing to do given the time of year but perhaps not. I was able to lay down epoxy, thinner epoxy sealer and base coat without texture. Just this one clear gave me problems. My flattened clear (a different product) also layed out smooth with a $13 Amazon cheepo gun.

Watching guys spray clear on YouTube, I’m also gonna try moving the gun a lot faster but having much more overlap in my passes. In retrospect I think I moved the gun too slowly trying to pour on material so it would flow out but didn’t overlap my passes as much as I could have.

Thanks for the help. I’d love to get the clear right this time and not have to wear my ass out sanding the clear.
 
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