Picked this up today.

[77cruiser]

Evolution R355CPS: Multi-Material Cutting Chop Saw With 14 in. Blade

Features Outperforms Abrasive Saws 14:1Not only is it faster, safer and more accurate, the R355CPS chop saw is more economical. Save time and save money with every smooth, square cut you make. Huge Cut CapacitiesCut up to 4-3/4 inch square tube, 3-3/4 inch x 7-1/8 inch rectangle tube and Ø5-1/8...

store.evolutionpowertools.com

Never tried one before.

 

[cheveslakr]

We used those saws exclusively, or at least the carbide blade, for light metal. Perfect for 10 gauge roll or formed stock. Be careful when coming down on your metal, a quick jab can easily wipe off a couple carbide tips and then the blade is choppy and performance drops significantly. Also, be careful cutting anything thicker than .120, or just switch out to an abrasive wheel.
You'll love it.

 

[kmakar]

Funny, I had just been researching the carbide blades for speed and longevity because when my new building is up I planned on buying either a floor horizontal band saw or chop saw like the one above.

Let me know how it works out. I've been leaning towards the chop saw though.

 

[kmakar]

Did you try it out yet Jim? I have lots of straight cuts to do (electrical strut) so I can weld them together for the solar array (panels mounted on the strut)?

 

[Kawickrice]

I am a commercial metal framer by trade and we use chop saws every day for cutting studs.
Very handy for a straight cut. We buy the blades by the case. We use 14 gauge exterior structural studs down to the paper thin 25 gauge for interiors.

 

[kmakar]

I've used metal chop saws a number of times, but looking for a low RPM 1450RPM Chop saw for carbide blades (not abrasive). Abrasive chops saws run at 3800 to 4200 RPM so I don't want to toast a carbide steel cutting blade on the first cut.

 

[Molly's 70]

I have used the friction disk type of chop saw & they weld just fine. Problem is they have some "flex" to them.
At work we have what's called a cold saw. Looks similar but it has coolant.

In my book, anything is better than an Oxy/acetylene or plasma cut for welding. You have to clean All the burnt metal off or its instant contamination.
Not saying it can't be done. It's just tedious to me.
I think a Sawzall & a metal blade would work? Unless you need a new tool.

 

[kmakar]

I have used the friction disk type of chop saw & they weld just fine. Problem is they have some "flex" to them.
At work we have what's called a cold saw. Looks similar but it has coolant.

In my book, anything is better than an Oxy/acetylene or plasma cut for welding. You have to clean All the burnt metal off or its instant contamination.
Not saying it can't be done. It's just tedious to me.
I think a Sawzall & a metal blade would work? Unless you need a new tool.

Yeah, I want straight cuts that I have to duplicate like 32 times and the chop saw with carbide blade will give the cleanest cut requiring the least work, plus it'll be good for the tool arsenal.

 

[Kawickrice]

Have you checked the rpm speed on a carpenter type miter saw? I have one someone gave me with a carbide blade on it that he cut aluminum stock with.

 

[kmakar]

Have you checked the rpm speed on a carpenter type miter saw? I have one someone gave me with a carbide blade on it that he cut aluminum stock with.

Yeah, I have a chop saw for wood that can do aluminum (and I have cut aluminum with it), but steel is a different monster. Blade must go slower.

Most steel carbide blades spin at a max of 1600 to 1800, and the normal chop saw runs over 3500 rpm. 1 cut into steel at that speed and you'd waste the $80 blade. That'd sure piss me off wasting a $80 in under a second.

 

[Molly's 70]

We're waiting for Jims reply for his opinion of the saw. I bet his wife forgot to untie him this morning.

 

[77cruiser]

Did you try it out yet Jim? I have lots of straight cuts to do (electrical strut) so I can weld them together for the solar array (panels mounted on the strut)?

Yea I've used it a bit. Not sure if the blade got dulled a bit buy cutting some rusted stuff.
I tried cutting a piece of 1/4 inch flat it had a hard time till it broke through & then it was fine.
If you look at the web site they have several different ones, this was the one they had at Menards.

Evolution Power Tools | Miter Saws, Chop Saws, Circular Saws & Blades

Evolution specialize in multi-material cutting technology and steel fabricating saws, blades, drills and cutters. Engineered to deliver power, accuracy and reliability, to cut through ferrous and non-ferrous metals, hardwoods, softwoods, even nail embedded wood. U.S customer support, 5-Star...

store.evolutionpowertools.com

 

[kmakar]

Yea I've used it a bit. Not sure if the blade got dulled a bit buy cutting some rusted stuff.
I tried cutting a piece of 1/4 inch flat it had a hard time till it broke through & then it was fine.
If you look at the web site they have several different ones, this was the one they had at Menards.

Evolution Power Tools | Miter Saws, Chop Saws, Circular Saws & Blades

Evolution specialize in multi-material cutting technology and steel fabricating saws, blades, drills and cutters. Engineered to deliver power, accuracy and reliability, to cut through ferrous and non-ferrous metals, hardwoods, softwoods, even nail embedded wood. U.S customer support, 5-Star...

store.evolutionpowertools.com

Blades are all over the place for durability and how well the cut. It's the one thing I was reading about when you posted this thread.

There are some better than others on how fast they cut, and how long they last and of course money is at the root of that. Better blades cost alot more.

I was interested in your thoughts on the saw itself and how it felt (good medium duty saw or not). I already planned on buying a new blade based on the research I'd done.

Here's the video I'd been watching.

 

[kmakar]

Jim, did the saw you bought come with the 36 tooth or 66 tooth? If it came with the 36 tooth, that may be your problem if you're cutting thicker stock.

The 36 tooth is for aluminum and thin steel stock. The 66 tooth is for medium thicker stock, and the 90 tooth can cut stainless.

I'm going to order this saw and also buy the 66 tooth blade.

 

[Shovelrick]

Until reading this thread I always thought you could just put a metal cutting blade in any chop saw, I have a 12" Ridgid compound mitre saw but never cut metal with it, we used the body shops chop saw when we put the new 3" SS exhaust in my car and it worked fine for that but had to cut slowly

 

[77cruiser]

The clamping for the work is a little weak & flexible. If I wreck this one I'll step up to a better one. The miter saw deal looks interesting.

Evolution S355MCS: Mitering Chop Saw With 14 In. Mild Steel Blade | Heavy Duty | Metal Cutting

The Evolution S355MCS 14" Mitering Chop Saw handles heavy-duty metal cutting with precision and ease. Check it out at Evolution Power Tools!

store.evolutionpowertools.com

Might have to check out a different blade.

Jim, did the saw you bought come with the 36 tooth or 66 tooth? If it came with the 36 tooth, that may be your problem if you're cutting thicker stock.

The 36 tooth is for aluminum and thin steel stock. The 66 tooth is for medium thicker stock, and the 90 tooth can cut stainless.

I'm going to order this saw and also buy the 66 tooth blade.

36 tooth

 

[kmakar]

The clamping for the work is a little weak & flexible. If I wreck this one I'll step up to a better one. The miter saw deal looks interesting.

Evolution S355MCS: Mitering Chop Saw With 14 In. Mild Steel Blade | Heavy Duty | Metal Cutting

The Evolution S355MCS 14" Mitering Chop Saw handles heavy-duty metal cutting with precision and ease. Check it out at Evolution Power Tools!

store.evolutionpowertools.com

Might have to check out a different blade.

36 tooth

I think the clamp would be fine if you had it on a table (or the floor). The clamp is just to hold the stock steady, but it rests on a table or supports. The miter box version is nice, but a waste of $ in my opinion. If you're doing fine work, it'd be good, but if just chopping and welding, no need for it.

I'd buy a 66 tooth blade (or better) and I think you'll see a big difference. Watch the video as he does the comparison and how well they cut.

 

[77cruiser]

I think the clamp would be fine if you had it on a table (or the floor). The clamp is just to hold the stock steady, but it rests on a table or supports. The miter box version is nice, but a waste of $ in my opinion. If you're doing fine work, it'd be good, but if just chopping and welding, no need for it.

I'd buy a 66 tooth blade (or better) and I think you'll see a big difference. Watch the video as he does the comparison and how well they cut.

I watched part of it. Did he really try to cut that chunk of rail? Oh yea make sure you wear hearing protection, they are a bit loud. If you've ever cut sheet metal with a skill saw, it's about the same.

 

[kmakar]

I watched part of it. Did he really try to cut that chunk of rail? Oh yea make sure you wear hearing protection, they are a bit loud. If you've ever cut sheet metal with a skill saw, it's about the same.

Yeah, if you watch the video, further in he shows the DB's of each. I always wear hearing protection with anything louder than 80 DB's. I'm hard of hearing now anyways from being stupid when I was younger, so I'm just trying to save what I have left.

 

[77cruiser]

Yeah, if you watch the video, further in he shows the DB's of each. I always wear hearing protection with anything louder than 80 DB's. I'm hard of hearing now anyways from being stupid when I was younger, so I'm just trying to say what I have left.

I wanted to see him cut that rail. I guess that's what they call click bait.