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Adjusting a noisy valve lifter on my '67 L35 396

L78fanatic

Well-Known Member
Senior Member
I knew there was a noisy lifter when I looked at the car online before purchasing "Big Red" last year, but I am finally getting to attending to mechanical things on my mostly original '67 Chevelle SS (Atlanta build). I doubt this engine has ever been messed with internally as it's original to the car. So, what is the simplest way to quiet this noisy lifter?....it gets better once the engine is warmed up but it's really LOUD upon cold start-up.

Now, my only other Chevelle was my '67 L78 car back in the day as many of you know, and that engine was a solid-lifter design, so I only needed to set the valve lash when changing out a broken spring or when simply adjusting the valves, which wasn't often if at all to my memory, since I only had it for 3 years before going into the Service (sold it which I regret to this day!).

Looking at old posts on Team Chevelle, I see the usual methods and other methods to tighten up hydraulic lifters. But, if I can isolate which lifter is making all the noise (it's on the passenger side I am certain) can I merely tighten it up with the engine running until it quiets down? Or, is it necessary to go through the entire valve train and redo everything (which I'd prefer to avoid honestly)?

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

John
 
If I had it, I'd get it hot then pull plugs and do the EOIC method adding 1/2 turn preload. Let it cool, then listen. If it still persists, replace the lifter, but that requires pulling the intake and going through a break in process. If you have any suspicion of lifter wear, pull the valve covers, clean the pushrods so you can put a clear mark on the pushrods all facing center of motor, then run it and verify the rods are spinning. If not, check again. If still not moving, break out the dial indicator and check lift at the pushrod cup of the rocker, compare to another lifter and verify wear. You'll need to do this while warm, if the lifter is bleeding down it'll show low lift.
 
If you have a set of old valve covers to cut out the tops, I like to adjust them while running.
Use Mr Gasket clips to keep the oil from squirting allover the place.


I'd also replace all of the rocker arm nuts. They lose their self-locking over the years.
68 cents ea at Rock Auto.
I remember this trick : pour penetrating oil down the pushrod of the noisy lifter to help loosen the varnish.


 
If I had it, I'd get it hot then pull plugs and do the EOIC method adding 1/2 turn preload. Let it cool, then listen. If it still persists, replace the lifter, but that requires pulling the intake and going through a break in process. If you have any suspicion of lifter wear, pull the valve covers, clean the pushrods so you can put a clear mark on the pushrods all facing center of motor, then run it and verify the rods are spinning. If not, check again. If still not moving, break out the dial indicator and check lift at the pushrod cup of the rocker, compare to another lifter and verify wear. You'll need to do this while warm, if the lifter is bleeding down it'll show low lift.

Ok, I get that but I was hoping to go a simpler route initially. I'm a novice I suppose when it comes to hydraulic lifters as all I've ever messed with is a solid-lifter cam! Simple! Hydraulic Lifters are more difficult I am learning. Ugh! I may need to go this route, but I just can't get into too much effort (physically) or I'll let a professional do it for me.
 
Thanks for the help so far.....I think I prefer the adjusting while running method, but I need to find an old set of valve covers. All I have is a new set of repro chrome covers and an original used set of valve covers, both with drippers for my L78 build. Gotta love those original hi-perf/L78 valve covers!

Below is a pic of my engine......I finally got the car into my garage out back so I can put it on the lift and inspect the undercarriage in person (it looked great in the photos)....my next major effort other than the noisy lifter. I've just done some minor refurbishment/painting efforts so far & things are looking pretty good overall.
 

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Thanks for the help so far.....I think I prefer the adjusting while running method, but I need to find an old set of valve covers. All I have is a new set of repro chrome covers and an original used set of valve covers, both with drippers for my L78 build. Gotta love those original hi-perf/L78 valve covers!

Below is a pic of my engine......I finally got the car into my garage out back so I can put it on the lift and inspect the undercarriage in person (it looked great in the photos)....my next major effort other than the noisy lifter. I've just done some minor refurbishment/painting efforts so far & things are looking pretty good overall.
Nice looking engine !
I need an old set of valve covers too. Maybe swing by a junkyard or two.
Hydraulics are much easier to set. Just slowly loosen the nut while it's running and it will click loudly.
Then tighten until it stops and go another 1/2 to 3/4 turn. Easy peasy.
Solids are a real PITA to me; using feeler gauges.
 
Can you just hunt down a local chevy craigslist lister? My luck never yields success when tracking down "junk" parts, everyone wants gold once they think someone's interested. If you're willing to dump $45 on these shipped, it may be an option. I'd give you a set if you were close enough.


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Thanks y'all! That's a good idea. If I'd gone to Carlisle this year I could've found a ratty pair of valve covers easy (most likely). But the idea of just buying a simple cheap pair of new covers is a good idea for sure! I also have a Corvette business guy down the road from me (good guy...Vietnam Vet), so I may stop in to see if he has anything I could buy or even borrow.
 
On running the engine while adjusting the valves be very careful, I had a 355 put in my 84 T/A 5 spd and mech decided to adjust hyd lifters with the VC off and oil got on the Exh and caught on fire, if you do it this way either use the splash clips 👍👍 or cut the top of an old VC and tighten till click/clack stops, if you have a cruddy lifter to much preload might make things worse
 
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