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Avoiding mini-starer mounting woes:

BillyGman

Active Member
If you choose to use a mini starter, don't just assume that any starter bolts that are listed for your car will be ok to use, even if they're the proper length(s). Remember this is an aftermarket part you're dealing with, and I can tell you that the hole size diameter in the aluminum mounting blocks of these starters are going to vary as much as .020" or even up to .040" from one starter to the next. Remember that besides being made overseas, most of them or all, are machined with metric tooling. And the shank diameters of the aftermarket mounting bolts also vary. So "Why does that matter?" you ask? It matters if you buy and use starter bolts which just happen to have an outside diameter on the shank that's considerably smaller than the inside diameter measurement of the holes on the mounting block of your starter are. If that is the case, guess what. Your mini-starter over time will begin to move around from side to side every time you turn the ignition key to fire up your V8 engine. And it can begin to grind, and/or beat up the teeth.

On my mini-starter, I ended up buying four different brands of starter bolts, and using my cheapo $20 dial calipers to take measurements of each set of bolts as well as the mounting block holes of the starter. Gues what I found. All four sets of the starter bolts I bought had different diameters on their knurled shanks, which varied as much as .040" despite all four sets being listed and sold for a 1970 Chevelle. Go figure. I'm certain that the aluminum mounting block holes on these aftermarket mini-starters will also vary in size. In my case, I ended up choosing the set of starter bolts which have shanks that have an O.D. measurement of merely .005" smaller than the I.D. measurement of the mounting block holes on the starter have. I would highly suggest that you don't overlook this.
 
I was shimming, un-shimming, back & forth chasing a now & then grind and found changing the Allen head bolts that came with a Power Master mini starter to GM type knurled bolts and that cured my hit & miss grind issue
 
I was shimming, un-shimming, back & forth chasing a now & then grind and found changing the Allen head bolts that came with a Power Master mini starter to GM type knurled bolts and that cured my hit & miss grind issue
Well just keep in mind that it likely has nothing to do with what brand the starter bolts are, nor even OEM vs. aftermarket bolts. It's having the correct diameter that's important. You need to have bolts which fit as snug as possible into the aluminum mounting block of the starter itself, without them being misaligned in the threaded hole in the engine block. I say that because with my Powermaster starter, it wasn't the Powermaster brand bolts that fit the best. It was another brand of bolt that did.
 
When I put the new engine in my 70 I had the same issue. I had just bought a Powermaster starter and planned to use a set of bolts I already had but as you stated, there was lots of slop. On top of that, I didn't have a shim kit so nothing would line up correctly. So I ordered the below kit from the same manufacturer. Everything fit perfectly. So I would agree, many starter bolts are NOT created equal.

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I bought a set of IIRC Dorman GM starter bolts hanging on a turnable rack at a local parts store
 
I seem to remember the powermaster coming with bolts, and reading their instructions, actually did, and it stated clearly to use them and don't reuse the factory bolts.
Since I have a few of these, on my '66 cranking it over after a while of setting, it busted the housing in several places......maybe because on that car I didn't read the instructions????
 
I seem to remember the powermaster coming with bolts, and reading their instructions, actually did, and it stated clearly to use them and don't reuse the factory bolts.
Since I have a few of these, on my '66 cranking it over after a while of setting, it busted the housing in several places......maybe because on that car I didn't read the instructions????
Were you using the supplied PM bolts or stock bolts when the starter housing/alum block broke?
 
Not sure, that's before I got the replacement starter, a powermaster, and it came with bolts. So, I may have used oem on the broken one but can't be sure.
 
I cut the outside part of the mounting block on my PM starter to give more header clearance, the header cleared it but barely then I started thinking about heat soak so I chopped about 3/4” maybe more off
 
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