1970 SS 396 4 spd

[40 Chains]

Hello all!
New to the site and excited to get some much needed advice.
Here is the situation. My brother and I are restoring our dad's 70 Chevelle SS 396 L34. It is a one owner but not totally numbers matching, as the block was replaced with 10k miles by the Chevy dealer for a factory defect (my dad's words). We are hiring most of this done as we do not have the time or the know how to do this job as well as a professional could. That being said, we need some advice on some things.
Since the car is not numbers matching, how original do we keep it?
Who has restored a similar car and what did you do for upgrades? Things we have discussed for upgrades include all disc brakes, upgraded exhaust, electronic ignition, upgraded suspension, etc. We are also debating on adding things that we're not original to the car but we're original to the year, such as a full cowl hood, posi rear end, air conditioning, ss stripes, hood pins, etc.
So, how original do we leave the car and if we decide to modify, what are the best upgrades for this scenario. Please let us know your thoughts. We appreciate them.
We are just kind of diving in on this and going to go for it. I wish we had more time on our hands to educate ourselves better or to do some of the work, but unfortunately it's not in the cards for us. We really want to restore this so our dad can enjoy it for a while. He is only 73 and in generally good health, but I don't want to regret waiting if something was to happen. Please pass this post on to anyone that has experience with something similar. I know this is a very broad post but hoping to split off into other more specific posts later.
Thanks for the help!

 

[cheveslakr]

Only you can answer those questions....the first question is are you building the car for yourself or do you want to enjoy it for a bit then recoup the greatest compensation? If I can assume, based on your concern, you want the latter. If so, original is probably the most cost effective, the modified stuff usually brings nothing unless you really get serious and create a purpose built modded chevelle, but that takes a serious investment too. I wouldn't overthink it myself, just keep the outside looking factory and add the upgraded brakes, and whatever bolt on stuff you value, then enjoy it. If you focus on the end sale results you'll lose so much on the way.

 

[Nashville Cat]

Agree with above.
I am not a fan of 396's in these heavy cars. The 427/454/489 are actually cheaper to build (once you have a good block).
You can make it handle with 1-1/4 front and 1" rear sway bars, new monotube shocks and stiffer 1" lowering springs.
You can do all of that for $600.
Modern steering box (from 92-98 Grand Cherokee) is about $200.
Vintage Air is about $2000.
A good 2.5" exhaust with Dynomax super turbos (they are quiet) is about $600.
Otherwise just restore everything and enjoy.
And take pics and share here

 

[Shovelrick]

Save any hard parts that are removed for resale originality value, dealer installed replacement block is the next best thing to numbers matching IMO, I'd get the engine running, do a front disc conversion but just replace rear shoes with quality parts IMHO you wont notice any difference with regular street driving, I recently added Vintage Air to my non ac 68 Malibu and Love it UMI Suspension sells nice USA made kits in different Stages as to how you want to set the car up and takes a lot of confusion out of doing that part of the project, I didn't see any mention of interior but those type of kits might not be a good way to go, I pieced a new interior "kit" together from different vendors, TMI and Legendary have pretty nice stuff, I like PerTronix ignition but nothing wrong with GMPP and parts are local everywhere, I also like Pypes exhaust products but that's just me, Summit Racing brand parts are very nice IMO I Think their headers are made by Hedman, about the engine I wouldn't pull a running engine out unless you plan on a fast rebuild or have a 454/489/496/500+ ready to go right back in, I also got tied up with 1.5 yrs Body & Paint with 3 different shops since I don't know how to do that stuff

 

[Derek69SS]

A non-matching L34 is not a super-valuable car, so I would not hesitate to improve it tastefully.

 

[cage2592]

First, WELCOME to the forum. Where do you live? Someone might be close to you.

We're here to help you through this delema and help spend as much of your money as you're willing to part with !

Id post pictures of what you are working with. Does it currently drive? Is this a drive and restore or teardown for a season? BIG question BUDGET

A non-matching L34 is not a super-valuable car, so I would not hesitate to improve it tastefully.

Agreed.

How fast or slow do you want to go? Buy parts to match. Current car comforts, highway, street, cornering, HP, AC, region of living, etc? Costs and parts will fall in-line. Most that reply have tons of experience with everything your asking and we all have our preferences.

When I was considering my current 70, I knew the route I was going (restomod if I had to pick a subject) and knew I wasn't looking for numbers matching or 'all there' SS car. I was looking for a good frame and body. After that, all aftermarket. So looks like you answered your question. This is the route you want, go for it. As I eluded to above, Its up to your money on how expensive you want. Your questions will be answered on what is your budget and what do you want it to do.

If it was me... 'a true' 70 Chevelle SS 396 L34 complete but needing a restore AND was my Dads, Id keep it all original. Keep the block as original as possible and get it re-stamped as numbers matching. IMPORTANT... ensure the car is NOT misrepresented and just be honest about the re-stamp if you ever sell it. Many 'Original numbers matching' cars fit in this category.

As stated by many. Completely up to you, and what you want it to do.

 

[Derek69SS]

If it was me... 'a true' 70 Chevelle SS 396 L34 complete but needing a restore AND was my Dads, Id keep it all original. Keep the block as original as possible and get it re-stamped as numbers matching. IMPORTANT... ensure the car is NOT misrepresented and just be honest about the re-stamp if you ever sell it. Many 'Original numbers matching' cars fit in this category.

I disagree with this... I wouldn't restamp, it just casts doubt on the legitimacy of everything else IMHO.

 

[cheveslakr]

I'd also leave the stamp as is. The L34 was the base SS in '70 so as long as the evidence is there as being an SS, which is fairly easy in '70, you're good.

 

[cage2592]

I would agree with all that. What I was getting at is its in all how you represent it and I wouldn't do it to falsely pass off.

 

[40 Chains]

Thanks for all the replies! You guys are great. A few answers to some of the questions I have seen so far, which are awesome questions:
This car is being built for ourselves for us to enjoy, and hopefully pass on in the family, with as much staying the same as it was when my dad bought it as possible. Planning to with the cortez silver with no SS stripes at this point.
We live in NE Iowa, the car currently does not drive (see pics), as it is being pulled apart as we talk at a very reputable resto garage. We are mostly looking for "been there done that" advice I think, which is exactly what we are seeing, THANKS!!
Our thoughts are to keep as original as possible, but add some HP and creature comforts to make it enjoyable to drive with a little more power, hopefully all without changing too much. I have a shitload of pictures of this car, and like I said, it is currently at the garage, with some metal work getting started.
Definite wants:

disc brakes
upgraded exhaust
electronic ignition
upgraded suspension
AC
More HP, currently stock 396 (350 HP) with hurst shifter, 4 spd original trans, original rear end. This car is basically all original except for new block and shifter. What is the best bet for more HP without wrecking anything in the process, and keeping it "mostly" original? Up size cam, turbo charge, super charge?

Potential add ons:
fuel injection? is it worth it, should we do it?
full cowl hood? better performance or all for looks?
upgrade to posi rear end (this is almost a definite want), but want to get advice for this.

You guys are awesome for sharing your knowlege, advice, etc. We are pretty green when it comes to most of this, but don't want to completely screw this car up, so want to ask questions.
Thanks again!

 

[40 Chains]

Some more pics. Budget is like most, we want to do this car justice, but don't want to go broke.. LOL
Thanks!

 

[Nashville Cat]

I think you're looking at 25k for bodywork and paint. Does that change anything ?
"What is the best bet for more HP without wrecking anything in the process, and keeping it "mostly" original? Up size cam, turbo charge, super charge?"

The easiest way is more cubic inches. Find a 454 block and buy a stroker rotating assembly. That will give you 489 cu in. Rebuilding a 396 costs about the same.
That's what I have with a small roller cam. Easy to take care of and minimal headaches.

 

[40 Chains]

I think you're looking at 25k for bodywork and paint. Does that change anything ?
"What is the best bet for more HP without wrecking anything in the process, and keeping it "mostly" original? Up size cam, turbo charge, super charge?"

The easiest way is more cubic inches. Find a 454 block and buy a stroker rotating assembly. That will give you 489 cu in. Rebuilding a 396 costs about the same.
That's what I have with a small roller cam. Easy to take care of and minimal headaches.

Thanks Nashville Cat, I think you are pretty close based on what we know so far after the body has been pulled. We have recieved the following quoted price from the guy doing body work:
interior parts total $5200
body parts total $5500
Suspension/brakes $2535
Paint around $10000
SO we are looking at around that $22-24k for those things. Beyond that, we are trying to get an idea of some costs from some of you guys that have been there, and some good ideas on what is most cost effective to make this machine look good and perform well. The bottom line is that it is a family owned car that my dad kept for years, in hopes my brother and I would eventually do something with it. That time is now. Thanks again

 

[Derek69SS]

You already have disc brakes and F41 suspension, so for upgrades I'd consider a 12.7:1 steering box and leave the rest pretty much stock unless you want to get crazy with it. Good shocks like Bilstein will improve both ride and handling. If you're never driving beyond the traction limit of the tires, you really don't need to do more than that.

Posi is easy to add to your rear end. I'd stick an Eaton Trutrac in it with whatever gearset you decide you want. 3.31 is a good ratio if you keep the 4spd. If you want more highway driver, I'd consider a TKX 5-speed for the overdrive.

Cowl hood is cool, but I wouldn't expect much HP gain from it. Not enough to feel a difference.

For performance, you can build a 496 pretty cheaply using a 454 block and a stroker kit with some 781 heads and a good cam to get close to 600hp without getting too radical or ruining its street manners. If you're running regular street tires (not drag radials) you can't really use any more power than that anyway, so supercharger or turbo doesn't seem necessary... and you can paint and dress up everything to look very close to stock if you want to.

 

[cage2592]

With what you provided above and if my opinion mattered, the route id go with keeping it timely with new upgrades:
1. Body, Paint $XXXXX
2. Frame blast and paint / powder $XXXXX
3. Frame while out, UMI suspension front and rear. Pick your kit at around $3000 starting.
5. Rear: rebuild the 12 bolt with desired rear gear ratio, locker and brakes for cost savings or purchase a Quick Performance 9" (what I have) $3800, or a Strange S60 with the options $XXXX
6. Trans: Id keep the stick, rebuild what you have ($1500). OR go with a TKX 5spd $3000. Plus you need a new clutch anyway.
7. Engine, Vortecpro 467 BBC (570+ hp) $8500
8. Aftermarket retro stock looking SS wheels and tires. $2000 (est).
9. Vintage Air AC, $2000

I'm up to S25K just for that and no paint with no real extra $ for the the little stuff.

Though you'd be updated with a nice running car that will last and drive great.

 

[cage2592]

Agree with Derek.

My costs above to you Chains because the work as you stated was " We are hiring most of this done as we do not have the time or the know how to do this job as well as a professional could." I'm assuming that was with the entire build.

Then tag in your costs for what you provided above quoted of about $20K. Throw in another guess of 8-10K for extras and labor to install...

 

[Shovelrick]

Just my opinion but watch how you go about HP and A/C, a big HP Big Block Chevy is Great but will it run ac without having issues? when I was figuring out plans for my 489 I spoke with a builder and said I’d like 600hp but still be able to have ac and I’m running an auto trans, don’t want overheat issues but still wanted a muscle car and had an idea of a hydraulic roller cam, long story short after about 5 pulls on an engine dyno it was 590hp 600tq and when I flip the ac on the engine doesn’t know the ac is on, No rpm drop no idle change , could’ve got over 700hp from the engine with a different cam and port work to the heads but maybe No ac? I’m very happy with it