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Building the sub-assemblies for my first DIY TH400 trans: just completed the Sonnax Smart-Tech Drum module, (lots of photos).

BillyGman

Active Member
For those of you who might be interested. Just thought I'd post some photos of the various parts of these TH400 drag racing internals that I've started on. This Sonnax Smart Tech drum is intended by the manufacture for drag race builds in the 500HP to 3,500 HP range, which do NOT use the intermediate band for engine braking. This "Smart-Tech" drum replaces the conventional forward drum, and direct drum in the TH400 trans. It employs 6 clutch frictions in the forward drum section, and 7 clutch frictions in the direct drum section. It's supposed to offer a performance gain through increased efficiency of the TH400 internal operation, but what drew my attention to this product is more the claimed increase in safety since it is supposed to prevent the rare occurrence of a drum explosion due to better efficiency inherent in it's design. That in itself appeals to me since I didn't want the hassle of using a trans shield nor blanket, ( I would've had to cut the floor tunnel in my car to do that anyway, which I didn't care to do).IMG_5591.JPGIMG_5593.JPGIMG_5594.JPGIMG_5596.JPGIMG_5599.JPGIMG_5600.JPGIMG_5609.JPGIMG_5612.JPGIMG_5614.JPGIMG_5618.JPG
 
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In that last post above^^^ it shows the cheap Amazon transmission clutch press I bought, which wasn't really up to the task of pressing the heavier/stiffer clutch springs that drag racing applications typically use. In fact the whole press structure was flexing, and it wouldn't press the assembly straight. It was lop sided. So I took the advice of the Sonnaz installation video and found a bearing race to use with the press, which enabled me to get a straight and even press force on the assembly. I used a Dana 60 pinion bearing race that I had for the forward drum clutch release springs, and a Dana 60 carrier bearing race for the direct clutch springs, which turned out to be the perfect diameters for the job.....

IMG_5673.JPGIMG_5676.JPGIMG_5680.JPGIMG_5685.JPGIMG_5690.JPGIMG_5694.JPGIMG_5696.JPGIMG_5697.JPGIMG_5701.JPGIMG_5704.JPGIMG_5709.JPG
 
Thanx for taking us along, I'm always impressed with the crazy intricacy of a well built hydro. Tore a clutch-flite down a few years back and decided right then and there it'd be left to someone else if I was to ever need a hipo auto.

Timely too, after all it is trans awareness month, or so I hear.
 
I’d love to try rebuilding a trans but don’t want to invest in tools I’d use once and I’m afraid I’d screw it up. I guess that makes me transphobic.

Thanks for sharing your project
John, I really didn't spend a whole lot of $$ on specialty tools. The cheap transmission clutch press I bought was only $38. The big dollars I spent was for the go-fast hi-perf transmission parts, as well as for the new race approved transmission case. But that's a matter of choice and application. I'm certainly not an expert, and at this point, I cannot say if this new project of mine will be successful, ( only time will tell). But it reminds me of the time when I had a performance upgrade itch with the brand new 2003 Mercury Marauder I bought right off the dealer showroom floor back then. As soon as the car had a few hundred miles on it, I began taking it to the drag strip to race it. It was also my daily driver. But after racing it in pure factory stock form a few times, I wanted to go faster, and one of the several things I did to it was to perform a ring & pinion gear swap. I had never done differential rear end work before that, but I ended up successfully swapping out the factory 3.55:1 ratio gears with 4.10:1 gears, with merely 1,500 miles on the odometer. My brother who is also a car guy, thought I was nuts!!! Hahahah....

After that, I wasn't satisfied, so several months later I performed another ring & pinion gear swap switching to a 4.56:1 gear ratio, and again it was successful. For me, the ring & pinion gear swaps were big jobs, but I painstakingly did my homework combing the net for pointers, tips, and instructions. So this time around, as a beginner once again, but this time with transmissions, I merely spent the $$ and bought two DVD's on rebuilding the TH400. One is for factory stock builds, and the other is for race builds using a trans brake. I'm also doing this the hard way, because I'm building it from scratch rather than starting off with an old TH400 like most guys do with their first few builds. So I won't have the luxury of disassembling an old TH400 to see how everything comes apart. Which is just another reason I bought the two DVD's.

When I first began watching the DVD's I was overwhelmed with all the internal parts they displayed and the procedures involved. But here's what I learned so far: As a beginner, there's no way you're going to be able to take it all in at once, nor mentally digest it during the first couple days you're viewing it, ( at least not if you're starting from scratch and without tearing apart an old transmission for yourself). Because I'm motivated to learn this, ( just as I was to learn the ring & pinion swap procedure) I began to view the two DVD's I bought, as well as several youtube rebuilding videos too, but I had to view the content about ten minutes at a time for my brain to begin to absorb it all and without being mentally overwhelmed like I was at first.

Because I am a novice at internal transmission parts, it took me at least three if not four weeks of viewing the video content, 10- 20 minutes at a time, to be able to get myself to the point where I was actually able to absorb it and learn. And I couldn't even watch the DVD content every day. I had to give myself a couple days in between viewings to become mentally hungry for more. The mind plays tricks, and you just have to give it time to get hungry again for more before you proceed. What also helped me was the addition of the ATSG Th400 manual because it has exploded views of both the internal and external parts, with every single one of the several hundred parts both numbered and listed by name. Getting to know where each part goes as well as the proper terminology and part names helped me out when I was watching the videos which show the mechanic and narrators making mention of the part names as they work on them and install them. I also had to know the part names merely to be able to purchase all the parts I needed too!!

Sorry for this crazy long post. My point is that when anyone who is a complete novice attempts to tackle something like this, he/she has to give their mind a chance to catch up and merely be able to begin to digest everything involved. But with time, you begin to adapt and gradually start to learn at least enough where you can feel comfortable and at least somewhat confident to begin such a big project, ( big to me anyway). You cannot expect to look at everything that's involved, and be ready to go for it the next day. Not if you're a complete novice, and not if you want to do it right. But that doesn't mean that you cannot do it. There's a learning process, and it takes time. If you want it bad enough, you'll become a student and learn. It isn't simple, but it also isn't impossible. Here below are some resources I found and have been using....

https://globaltransmissionparts.com...MIl42BxLLKggMVRNbICh2Orw2AEAQYBCABEgLDH_D_BwE

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jpt-92077-t4d

https://www.2040-parts.com/gm-th400-transmission-rebuilding-th400-dvd--i423010/
 
Thanks for your interest guys. This is one of many learning experiences I've had with my Chevelle. I'm sure that at least many of you can relate in one way or another. So far I'm liking this. What I plan to do when I'm done building this TH400 trans is to take it to a local trans shop which has a transmission dyno. For a couple hundred bucks, they put the trans on the dyno, fill it with fluid, take it up to RPM while shifting it through the gears several times, and they measure the fluid pressures to make sure it's operating correctly, and that there aren't any internal leaks occurring. That was recommended to me by a pro trans builder on the internet, so I'm going to take his advice on that. On the dyno is where I'd want to find a problem if one is to be found. Not on the street nor at the drag strip.
 
The BBC I have should end up making approximately 875 HP@6,200 rpm naturally aspirated on 93 octane pump gas. It's a very heavy Chevelle, so I expect to run in the high 9's with it at the drag strip, launching off the trans brake with 29" tall bias-ply slicks, 373:1 rear gears and a spool.
3.73:1 gears? Why not in the 4 series? Edit guess 800+hp won’t matter what gears
 
Now that you've done a T400, have you thought about a 4L80e ?
From what I've seen, a 4L80e in rebuildable shape is not expensive, but most shops want $2000+ to rebuild one.
:)
 
3.73:1 gears? Why not in the 4 series? Edit guess 800+hp won’t matter what gears
Now that you've done a T400, have you thought about a 4L80e ?
From what I've seen, a 4L80e in rebuildable shape is not expensive, but most shops want $2000+ to rebuild one.
:)
Rick, I decided on 3.73 rear gears for a couple reasons: 1st, when I had the first set of heads on the motor which I don't believe are quite as good as the heads I have now, it made 802 ft/lbs of torque@4,200rpm with 715 ft/lbs in by 3,000rpm. With a 4.75" stroke and a 4.6" bore, I really don't think I need 4.10 gears with a 2.48 first gear in the trans. I believe the engine has plenty of torque to get the car off the line with 3.73 gears. If I had a powerglide trans with the higher first gear like many other drag racers at this power level use, that would likely call for 4.10 gears with this combination. And BTW those dyno numbers were also with a smaller camshaft. I now have a camshaft that will be increasing the lift at the valves by .125" more than the camshaft I had in the engine when it was run on the dyno. But at the same time, the new cam has a dur@.050 that's very close to the duration of the old cam, ( with only a 6 degree increase). That dur@.050 is only 274 degrees which is a fairly short dur@.050 for a 632cid engine.

The original cam having a 268/271 dur@.050 had the power peak@5,900 rpm so I believe 4.10 rear gears would be a little bit of a mismatch for the cam I'll be using. If I were to use a 284 dur@.050" I think that would call for 4.10 gears. But time will tell. If I'm wrong about that, then I can always do a ring& pinion gear swap if need be. But my thinking is this: How many well matched street/strip cars have you seen, owned, or been in with 4.10 rear gears which had a power peak@ merely 6,000 or 6,200 rpm? I believe most well sorted out cars with 4.10 gears have engines with power peaks of at least 6,800-7,000 rpm.

Second, in addition to that, I also didn't want the engine to be reving@3,800rpm at 70 mph on the highway which it would be with 4.10 gears and a TH400 trans. The 3.73's should keep it@3,200 rpm at a 70 mph cruise speed. I can live with that, because I have before for 6 years with the old Vette I used to have. But again, time will tell. Thanks for the question.

Beth, I'm not yet done with this TH400 build. Those photos are just the beginning stages. I still have to assemble the rear gear train, modify the pump, ( although a minor modification) and install everything into the new case which also includes the intermediate clutches, and the center support. So I'm not done with this project just yet. These are really baby steps cuz I'm still a novice at this trans building thang. ;) Anyway, as you likely already know, it's often said that a 4L80 is like a TH400 with an O\D gear added. I'm not sure, but I think the 4L80 case is slightly bigger than that of the TH400, ( which BTW might very well be due to the O\D gear). I already have a TH400 in the car now, ( which is only rated for about 125 HP less than what I expect the engine to make) and it was such a tight fit for me to install that TH400 into the car, that I had to literally take a 20 lb sledge hammer to "massage" the floor tunnel to get the trans to fit while the car was on my brother's lift, ( another reason why I went with a Reid SFI approved case, since I won't need a trans shield, and there's no way I can fit a trans shield in the car).

So my guess is that I'd have to cut the entire floor tunnel out of the car, and get a buddy of mine who does body work, to fab up a whole new, bigger floor tunnel for me in order to fit a 4L80 housing case. That's something I'm not willing to do merely to have an O\D gear. Another thing is that I've had two transmissions in the past in other cars with less power, ( 475HP and 530 HP) with overdrive gears, and I blew the O\D gears in both those transmissions from merely street driving, (the last one I blew the O\D in on the highway late at night at 140 mph). So I'm not a huge fan of O\D gears. I guess I'm just too rough on my cars and on transmissions to have one.

Anyway I don't expect this Chevelle of mine to be a smooth riding car by any means. With a solid roller cam having .817" lift at the valve, with one of the most aggressive cam lobe profiles that the late great Harold Brookshire had designed, ( AKA "UDHarold") 810 lbs of open valve spring pressure, 2 1/8" primary tube headers with a 3.5" diameter exhaust, and straight through mufflers without any baffles, and an engine that's chained to the frame of the car to prevent a motor mount failure from allowing the air cleaner to be pushed through the hood, as well as a spool in the rear end, I don't expect it to be the type of car that I'll be very concerned about having an overdrive transmission in. The car will probably rattle your teeth after a half hour drive. In fact, my buddy and fellow drag racer thinks I'm nuts for even having power steering in the car, ( IDK, maybe he's right). IDK how cheap or expensive it might be to rebuild a 4L80 as compared to a TH400, but at a power level of close to 900 HP and in a real heavy car like mine is, I don't think that any factory stock TH400 nor 4L80 nor even a factory 4L85 trans will hold up very long. So I know that I'd still have to modify any one of those transmission models. Thank you also for your question. I appreciate your interest.
 
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