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Allis Chalmers D10

cage2592 said:
Yes that's the Draft Control for the top link.

Better than I can describe: 'The draft control on a tractor senses the extra strain of hard patches of ground and allows the plow to rise enough that the patch won’t be an issue, and the wheels of the tractor won’t spin. Once the tractor has passed the hard patch, the plow returns to its original depth. The location of the knob or lever for draft control differs from tractor to tractor, but the process in which you can find the right setting is always the same."

On our smaller tractors I never really use it since they are small in HP and not used for heavy tillage. Now our 200hp, I use the mess out of it. It also depends on the tractor's setup of rear tire weights, Fluid filled rears, dual rears, front plate weights.... then to type of grounds. How deep do you want the implement to go... .

The other picture: Are your Hydraulic control valves. There are spring(s) and pistons (bypass or relief valve) in there that control the flow of fluid when opened or closed with the levers on the opposite side are moved. If they are spraying oil, then the pressure is overriding one of them. Probably should be pulled apart and cleaned anyway. Might be a good time to pull the hyd pump and rebuild it as well. Especially if you hear a bad whine in the pump. you don't want to run the risk of it burning up.
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How difficult is it to overhaul the pump? I have heard it needs new o-rings.
 
I never tried, I sent them out to be rebuilt, but it was expensive. Had the pump rebuilt in my bobcat 825 and it was something like $700.
 
I'm not seeing much for AC D10 HYD parts. Though they are pretty easy to rebuild yourself. I'd take it apart clean everything and inspect the parts. The good news is many of those HYD parts back in the day were used across many tractors. I'd think someone would have a substitute part. Have you bought a build manual yet to have the part numbers?
 
cage2592 said:
I'm not seeing much for AC D10 HYD parts. Though they are pretty easy to rebuild yourself. I'd take it apart clean everything and inspect the parts. The good news is many of those HYD parts back in the day were used across many tractors. I'd think someone would have a substitute part. Have you bought a build manual yet to have the part numbers?
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No, I need to. Most everything has been straight foreword. I am going to take the lift cylinders to a local shop for rebuild and get new lines made. I have the valve blocked ports blocked off right now so I can move the beast around but I know I need to tackle the valve.

I just ordered a pump hose and filter, oil is milky so it will be changed. I will probably replace all lines even though the traction boost rod looks to be broken but it may be fixable.

Just to get to drive it was a thrill, now I know there is hope. My wife had her doubts when she first saw it yanked on the trailer after being cut out of the trees.
 
I really enjoy working on the older tractors these days. Super simple and see the returns of working on them pretty quick. For me, it makes using them very much more enjoyable. The kids and grandkids love when springs here as we have an 18ft hay bale trailer I pull behind the Farmall. They love the hayrides through the county down to the lake and back (5mi round trip).
 
They are so basic, points plugs, carb and timing. I am getting into more foreign territory with hydraulics and brakes, they are quite different from a car's.
 
D10 update.

Resealed the steering box, letting the RTV set up. Shortened the choke cable. Installing the air filter system that uses oil, some adjustments needed. Still working on Alternator/electrical system. New oil pressure gauge on order.

Next I need to get the left rear wheel off and remove the spinout brackets and free them up. Will probably take to my welding class, they have a torch and I can weld a nut on the end of a spinout bracket where one is missing. Once the wheel is off I am going to tackle the left brake, probably a broken spring as it does not engage. Once the left brake is done, I will work on the right side and then work on the hydraulics.
 
Chevelle_Nut said:
Nope, sucker is going to have to work. No sissy parade tractor for me.
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While I openly admit that I appreciate a fine restoration job, I'm more utilitarian in nature and see the worth in a well functioning piece of equipment regardless of the overall finish.
 
Into it deep now, heading for the brakes.

I need the engine crane to lift off the housing, it is next to the Gold Chevelle. Pouring rain and I don't want to move it out. Tomorrow.

Had to go to Hobo Freight for a 1 1/8th inch impact socket.

Rear axle 2.jpg
 
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