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Allis Chalmers D10

Hydraulic controls and lines completely removed. Left rear wheel going back together, fender will go on soon. Found the left brake spring is missing, will add it to my order list.

Trying to get all of the milky crap out of the system the best I can. My biggest challenge is I need to carefully remove the valves in the controller and replace the o-rings, they are leaking pressure past. I also need to disassemble the drag and clean it.

Going to drop off the lines and hoses next week for replacement. Fortunately all of metal hoses came loose, a couple needed a little propane torch heat.
 
I spun the D10 around in the garage last night and ordered new brakes, seal, shitter boot and spring, ready to tear apart the right side.. I need to pick up the hydraulic cylinders from the repair shop.
 
About at a stopping point. I need the hydraulic controller back and tomorrow I am going to see about new hydraulic lines. The 3 point is going back together, brakes are done, I need to get with a guy to get a new steering gear. I could work on the front bearings next and the seat. The seat cant go back in till hydraulics are done. I also have to repair and paint the grill and hood so I do have stuff to do while I wait.

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I have had a garage buddy this week, my daughter is doing a wood project. I dislike wood projects, sawdust gets everywhere! But she is staying busy and being creative.
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Back on the D10. I replaced the seals on the Pin valve, replaced all of the hydraulic lines and reassembled. She started right up, built pressure but I still have a leak at the back of the pin valve controller, the correct o ring is no longer available. Fortunately I can take the pin valve cover off while it is still on the tractor.
 
Drove the D10 yesterday, she still has crap in the tank and was running poorly. Took off the sediment bowl and cleaned it out and the feed from the tank. Runs much better, going to order a fuel tank screen:

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Adjusted the clutch all the way out, brakes are still needing more adjustment but the rods are almost at max. added another gallon of tractor fluid, hydraulics sucked it up. Still trying to figure out the control valve leak.

One step at time.
 
Worked on the D10 a bunch this weekend, rained all day on Saturday and was cooler.

First thing was the alternator, as stated in another thread I was fighting with a sold as 1 wire but was a 3 wire alternator. I bought another Jungle Website 1 wire and returned the 3 wire. Alternator is now charging at 14.3.

Replaced the PTO seal.

Removed the gas tank to clean wiring up. While it was out I drained it, pulled off the sediment filter and added a pre filter in the tank. I has to drill out the top of the sediment filter unit to make it fit. It sits in the tank so any debris gets trapped before pulugging up the sediment filter orifice.
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Installed a fuel gauge in the tank. Reinstalled the tank and added 5 gallons of non-ethanol.

Lifted up the radiator and installed new radiator pads.

Finally worked on the nose. I removed the lights and took the nose outside for sanding. Once sanded it was bondo time, sanded, re-Bondod and sanded then primed and painted. Repainted the grill too. Went to Advance Auto, found bulbs and a push pull switch. Wired lights and installed header assembly.
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Next I am working on the rear lights, their paint is dry but will require some electrical wire repairs. I will then revisit the brakes, then the pesky hydraulic issue. One step at a time.
 
When I did the rewire on the rear of the Farmall, I added a toggle switch for a trailer plug and a switch for a rear work light pointing down at the hitch. The trailer plug is mainly to power our 20' hay trailer rear flashers and Christmas lights for hayrides or parades. The work light is a flood that points down and towards the rear to see the hitch and front of trailers.

Just a thought for fun items.

Its looking amazing !
 
Been working on the D10 today. I found a front hub worn to the point the race would not stay in. Part on order.

I am adding tie rod boots, got 1 done, had to order a pickle fork for the other one to budge. Also ordered a die to rethread the right tie rod. Yes, the castle nut was on when I was trying to break it free but the castle nut split. :oops:

Worked on hydraulic leak, Corrosion was the key enemy to the pin valve assembly, I "farmered" it together to stop the leak.
 
"farmered".....how descriptive is that? A real farmer can't have implements down, so welders, spare parts, forge, lathe and a wonderful and willing wife gets it done.
 
cheveslakr said:
"farmered".....how descriptive is that? A real farmer can't have implements down, so welders, spare parts, forge, lathe and a wonderful and willing wife gets it done.
Click to expand...
This whole tractor was "farmered" together, it was made to work and that was about it. The crap I have seen with this thing amazes me, the wheel bearings take the cake.

So the left front wheel was wobbling. I took it apart to find the seal and inner bearing falling out of it. The spindle nut was wrong. Got further in, the outer bearing was bad. Inside the hub was grease from the 1970's with rollers from a bad bearing, long gone, embedded in it. The race was bad and was wallowed out. I was going to try to reuse but the race would not press in, would just fall out and the seal was loose. Did it work? Yes, but it was tearing itself apart doing so.

Oh, one last thing I will do on this thing is replace the steering gear, it has a bad bearing in it but somebody also welded the steering wheel nut to the shaft so the busted wheel can't be replaced.

Farmered
 
I can't win. Second hub came in for the tractor, still wrong. Agco purchased Allis Chalmers years ago and all of the parts are online https://parts.agcocorp.com/us/en . The parts I received should be correct for the serial number but they are not. I think I have located a hub for it that is correct, one and only one that I can find. There were only 2, 5 lug hubs made. Crossing my fingers it is the one!
 
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