I squeezed a 4L80e into my 68 Camaro without cutting the tunnel. 
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- Thread starter JohnC
- Start date
You have an original factory detent cable I’m guessing
I was able to get original cables from my local Chevrolet dealer up until about 10 years ago. Now I purchase reproduction ones from a seller on eBay and they seem
to work fine - just not as durable as an original.
Mine looks fairly well made and durable but was about 1/4” too short, I could either get full Park or full 4th but after trying every combo of adjustments couldn’t get both till I got the SW cable
Bought a crappy old oven to do some powder coating. At least two top burners don’t work and it was pretty greasy on the sides but it cleaned up well and the oven works which is all I care about. I only have a 30 amp breaker in my garage that run my welder or compressor. So I put a dryer plug on the stove. It’s supposed to be on a 40 amp breaker but wall ovens are typically 30
Amp and if I don’t use the top burners at the same time I think I’ll be fine.
Amp and if I don’t use the top burners at the same time I think I’ll be fine.
Disconnect the burners on the top so you don't get tempted or make a mistake.
I used an oven like that and built a shelf with a tray to catch the powder.
Keep plenty of gadgets around, wire, picks, pliers etc, to hang or move items before and after coating.
The make high heat tape, use it for taping off sections you don't want powder on.
I used gasket remover to clean off parts that got the wrong color or overspray. Makes quick work.
I did a few things, I did my weiand intake in cast gray and it turned out nice.
I have an oven in the shop & I think it's only on 20 amps & it works fine. Had to use it a couple time to cook turkey day stuffing.
kmakar
Janitor
The element in a oven (bake or broil) is typically under 3,000 watts at 220v which is easily run by a double pole 20 amp, so you'll be fine John.
I do however echo Shane's recommendation though. Lifting the glass top and disconnecting / cutting power going to the surface burners on top for safety would be a wise move.
I’d be interest to know what mods people do to their ovens. It seems like I see people just put stuff in there on the rack. I assume you don’t want powder falling onto the lower element. Maybe it’ll burn or get caked on? Maybe throw a cookie sheet under the parts to be cooked?
I was thinking for hanging some hooks from the roof of the oven. Perhaps short self tapping screws to hold the hooks.
Derek69SS
Veteran Member
On that same day I scored those headers, I had a really good day on Facebook Marketplace... I also picked up this set of 69 Chevelle bumper guards for $25 and scooped up these vintage Appliance SBC Tri-5 headers for free.
Guards have been sold, and the headers I gave to Cale for his '55.
Guards have been sold, and the headers I gave to Cale for his '55.
Attachments
Nice scores. Those '69 guards sell for a pretty good premium anymore. I've seen them go for $500 in good shape. One year only and not repopped and completely transform the look of a street '69.
Derek69SS
Veteran Member
Yup, bought for $25 and sold 2 days later for $500
Personally, I don't like the look, but I knew they had some value.
Ok, powder oven.
Take an oven tray, mount it to the top below the top element, and then you have another tray to lower as far as you can above the lower element. Keep the center as big as possible so you can get large things inside. On the top tray permanently mount some homemade hooks to hang items, push them to the rear so they are available when you need them. Keeping them to the front is bad because it can scrape your powder.
Think about lighting. Think about the front glass. Keep it clean and maybe you could add more than just the one light.
I disconnected the top elements so they couldn't be used.
You have a timer on the stove so you can use that but I had a second as a backup in case I left the room.
I built a shelf the size of the oven for the top of the stove. I could hang the item there with a hook, coat it, and then either use the shelf to put it inside the oven or use pliers to move the item and the hook to the top shelf inside the oven.
Make multiple hooks and keep them in a cup so you always have access to them.
Tray on the stove surface to collect your powder if you reyse. Keep tray clean.
I mounted a tube to the side of my oven to put my gun in. I mounted the power box also to the side.
I kept a bowl for my silicone plugs, again to have quick access.
Also find a coat rack or some sort of clothes hanger so you can hang your parts on to cool. Wire from a rafter can work as well.
I also kept a toaster oven next to my oven for small parts like emblems and such. No need to start a huge oven for some bolts or carb linkage, bracket. You can take a car emblem and fill the void with powder and then bake it to kind of restore the emblem back to the way it once was. Think of the SS emblems on the side of the fender. Not original but it will pass at a car show.
You can also use lighting to heat your parts like big frames etc and make the powder flow.
I used to use a $100 kit I bought from ebay, and it was very successful. I bought a 50 pound box of garbage powder for training purposes and starting coating everything just to learn the process. Once I was content I started coating my parts. I will upload a picture of my intake which I still have. I coated it about 10 years ago and besides dust it still looks like day one.
I have since moved onto the $700 kit from eastwood but I need a gun...and also am looking for a new house...so no powdercoating or other fun until I find something.
Take an oven tray, mount it to the top below the top element, and then you have another tray to lower as far as you can above the lower element. Keep the center as big as possible so you can get large things inside. On the top tray permanently mount some homemade hooks to hang items, push them to the rear so they are available when you need them. Keeping them to the front is bad because it can scrape your powder.
Think about lighting. Think about the front glass. Keep it clean and maybe you could add more than just the one light.
I disconnected the top elements so they couldn't be used.
You have a timer on the stove so you can use that but I had a second as a backup in case I left the room.
I built a shelf the size of the oven for the top of the stove. I could hang the item there with a hook, coat it, and then either use the shelf to put it inside the oven or use pliers to move the item and the hook to the top shelf inside the oven.
Make multiple hooks and keep them in a cup so you always have access to them.
Tray on the stove surface to collect your powder if you reyse. Keep tray clean.
I mounted a tube to the side of my oven to put my gun in. I mounted the power box also to the side.
I kept a bowl for my silicone plugs, again to have quick access.
Also find a coat rack or some sort of clothes hanger so you can hang your parts on to cool. Wire from a rafter can work as well.
I also kept a toaster oven next to my oven for small parts like emblems and such. No need to start a huge oven for some bolts or carb linkage, bracket. You can take a car emblem and fill the void with powder and then bake it to kind of restore the emblem back to the way it once was. Think of the SS emblems on the side of the fender. Not original but it will pass at a car show.
You can also use lighting to heat your parts like big frames etc and make the powder flow.
I used to use a $100 kit I bought from ebay, and it was very successful. I bought a 50 pound box of garbage powder for training purposes and starting coating everything just to learn the process. Once I was content I started coating my parts. I will upload a picture of my intake which I still have. I coated it about 10 years ago and besides dust it still looks like day one.
I have since moved onto the $700 kit from eastwood but I need a gun...and also am looking for a new house...so no powdercoating or other fun until I find something.
What did you get for the bumper guards?Yup, bought for $25 and sold 2 days later for $500
Personally, I don't like the look, but I knew they had some value.
Derek69SS
Veteran Member
$500 (+shipping)
Man, I love that tunnel ram. It's frickin cool.
From a friend of a friend today, a mint '70 Chevelle console, new shift plate and seals and a new console harness, complete front disc brake setup with upper and lower control arms, big block coil springs and swaybar, and complete forward lamp harness, engine harness, sweep dash harness and rear harness for a '70... $150 for the lot!
I donated the upper and lower arms to another friend of a friend, two other guys are donating bushings, ball joints and labor to get them on his '70 Olds 442, his dad was the original owner, and the front end is shot. He pulled it apart for two cracked lower control arms, then had a stroke and a heart attack (and no insurance!) They are trying to get him on the road for spring, and I didn't need the arms, they were just part of the disc brake deal.
They friend I got the sstuff from had a lot of other good items at low prices, but I only bought what I needed and left the rest for the next guy.
I donated the upper and lower arms to another friend of a friend, two other guys are donating bushings, ball joints and labor to get them on his '70 Olds 442, his dad was the original owner, and the front end is shot. He pulled it apart for two cracked lower control arms, then had a stroke and a heart attack (and no insurance!) They are trying to get him on the road for spring, and I didn't need the arms, they were just part of the disc brake deal.
They friend I got the sstuff from had a lot of other good items at low prices, but I only bought what I needed and left the rest for the next guy.