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1963 Massey Ferguson 35 Diesel Deluxe

Nashville Cat said:
You have the weather to have a beautiful bermuda grass lawn. This is what they use on football fields down there :

hancockseed.com

Hancock's Highlander Turf Bermuda Grass Seed - Hulled & Coated

Purchase Hancock's Highlander Turf Bermuda at Hancock Seed Company. Hancock's Highlander Turf Bermuda is the best option for a successful bermuda lawn or turf application (golf course, athletic field, etc).
hancockseed.com hancockseed.com
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I grew bermuda at the last house and it was a PITA and it susceptible to all kinds of issues. Drop bahia seeds and water and forget about it. Overseed every couple of years to keep it thick.
 
kmakar said:
I grew bermuda at the last house and it was a PITA and it susceptible to all kinds of issues. Drop bahia seeds and water and forget about it. Overseed every couple of years to keep it thick.
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I have a thick green bermuda yard but maybe the warmer weather gives problems ?
I do spray once a year and fertilize once too
 
Finished welding two spare 1/2" drive metric sockets together so I could make the tool to take the locks off for the spin out rims (oddly enough the square head bolts are the exact same size as a 1/2" ratchet drive), got the rims spun back in flush, and the outer measurement of the tires is 5' 6", so the 5' box blade wasn't going to work, so I returned the 5' box blade and bought a 6' box blade. Not that I wanted to spend the money, but it was only $250 more and in the grand scheme of things I guess that's not too bad. Changing the oil in the engine (with filter), I moved the front wheels in so they are in line with the rear wheels, and now I have to do an alignment as the wheels were towed out (they are supposed to be towed in between 1/8" and a 1/4"), and right now they are towed out 1.5".
 
Front wheel bearings were toast, so I installed new ones. She's done for now and already put her into service. I pitched the box blade to drag some fill over to a low spot. She did a great job.

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kmakar said:
Finished welding two spare 1/2" drive metric sockets together so I could make the tool to take the locks off for the spin out rims (oddly enough the square head bolts are the exact same size as a 1/2" ratchet drive), got the rims spun back in flush, and the outer measurement of the tires is 5' 6", so the 5' box blade wasn't going to work, so I returned the 5' box blade and bought a 6' box blade. Not that I wanted to spend the money, but it was only $250 more and in the grand scheme of things I guess that's not too bad. Changing the oil in the engine (with filter), I moved the front wheels in so they are in line with the rear wheels, and now I have to do an alignment as the wheels were towed out (they are supposed to be towed in between 1/8" and a 1/4"), and right now they are towed out 1.5".
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Spin outs are a pain. Mine were frozen, took a lot of heat to get them freed. I Removed the c clip and beat the pin out, cleaned it and reinstalled. There is a locking hole that makes it east to find the width.
 
Chevelle_Nut said:
Spin outs are a pain. Mine were frozen, took a lot of heat to get them freed. I Removed the c clip and beat the pin out, cleaned it and reinstalled. There is a locking hole that makes it east to find the width.
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I had no problems getting the locks out once I made the tool. Spun the rims all the way in, so that was easy and then set the locks. What makes yours hard is no impact gun. I used my 1/2 impact and it made light work of the whole thing, except having to go out and buy an odd size impact socket (1 5/16 for the rim bolts). I had the rims (both) spun back in in less than 30 minutes. What took longer is fixing the steering as one of the rods was bend and the bearings were toast. Once all that was fixed, I aligned it, greased all the fittings, and then hooked up the box blade.

Lumber was supposed to be delivered today, but I got the call yesterday that they didn't have a truck big enough to haul everything I ordered so I decided to work on the tractor today and get it finished, so they are sending 2 flatbed tractor trailers out tomorrow, so I expect to be the first delivery, so I'll clean the shop in the morning and be waiting. Then I have to hump it all in doors because most of the lumber is too big to fit through the 10' doors. I'll start framing on Saturday.
 
kmakar said:
I had no problems getting the locks out once I made the tool. Spun the rims all the way in, so that was easy and then set the locks. What makes yours hard is no impact gun. I used my 1/2 impact and it made light work of the whole thing, except having to go out and buy an odd size impact socket (1 5/16 for the rim bolts). I had the rims (both) spun back in in less than 30 minutes. What took longer is fixing the steering as one of the rods was bend and the bearings were toast. Once all that was fixed, I aligned it, greased all the fittings, and then hooked up the box blade.

Lumber was supposed to be delivered today, but I got the call yesterday that they didn't have a truck big enough to haul everything I ordered so I decided to work on the tractor today and get it finished, so they are sending 2 flatbed tractor trailers out tomorrow, so I expect to be the first delivery, so I'll clean the shop in the morning and be waiting. Then I have to hump it all in doors because most of the lumber is too big to fit through the 10' doors. I'll start framing on Saturday.
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Mine were extremely rusted and frozen.

What does your final drive system look like? My final drive has oil pans below the gear on both sides that were dry of grease. If you have them you may want to check them.

1685662989856.png
 
Chevelle_Nut said:
Mine were extremely rusted and frozen.

What does your final drive system look like? My final drive has oil pans below the gear on both sides that were dry of grease. If you have them you may want to check them.

View attachment 12207
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Nothing like that. Just brakes. I let the yellow goo drip out all night and filled it this morning. The new oil was thick and took almost 20 minutes to pour a 5 gallon in.
 
Here's dad's old gas MF35.....it has power steering and multi-power, which is a hydraulic clutch pack used for engine braking. Great for hills, lets you maintain speed going down, and allows you to engine brake going up a hill while depressing the clutch to change gears or in that short time it takes you to depress the clutch and apply the brake. Power steering has always given him headaches as it wasn't designed for the additional weight of this loader. I've helped him rebuild the unit twice, it's a bitch.
Great tractor, but a bit light duty for a crop, the 65 was the shit.
 

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cheveslakr said:
Here's dad's old gas MF35.....it has power steering and multi-power, which is a hydraulic clutch pack used for engine braking. Great for hills, lets you maintain speed going down, and allows you to engine brake going up a hill while depressing the clutch to change gears or in that short time it takes you to depress the clutch and apply the brake. Power steering has always given him headaches as it wasn't designed for the additional weight of this loader. I've helped him rebuild the unit twice, it's a bitch.
Great tractor, but a bit light duty for a crop, the 65 was the shit.
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You are lucky to have brakes by the wheel and not by the bull gear.
 
This isn't mine, it's going to go to my brother, since he's the one with acreage and a need. AFAIK, dad's never done brakes on it, but not sure.
 
Got a new attachment 2 days ago.... nice 6' 3 point rake. Not sure how I ever lived without it. Does a great job collecting debris and rocks. Neighbor is going to come over with his bucket and move 2 big piles of dirt and rock. One pile is from when the put in the septic whic is just fill, and the other pile is clean dirt I'll use for grading on the other side of the house.

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Got tired of having to swap out between the box blade and the rake and trying to line them up, and hooking everything up, so I bought a 3 point quick hitch yesterday. Didn't want to fit properly on the box blade with the top hitch being too far in (the rake isn't that way) so I modified it and welded the top hook in place. Harbor Fright is having a closeout sale on them for $140 where most places are running between $200 and $300. Now I back up, lift the 3 point to pick up the attachment and lock the bottom pins, and I'm ready to rumble.

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