68 Malibu Eyebrow Molding

[Shaner]

I'm reading that polishing aluminum gives the brightest finish and anodizing gives less sheen.
So I would polish and clear it. Or polish and hand buff it every now and then.
Why pay $$ to anodize for a worse appearance ?

Because the anodizing lasts and shines better than the aluminum.

I have a few pieces of trim that I removed the anodizing from. After awhile they get dingy and need to be re-polished they are easier to wear. For a manufacturer you would want a finish that lasts and is more durable.

 

[Shovelrick]

Because the anodizing lasts and shines better than the aluminum.

I have a few pieces of trim that I removed the anodizing from. After awhile they get dingy and need to be re-polished they are easier to wear. For a manufacturer you would want a finish that lasts and is more durable.

Do you think 0000 steel wool would remove the anodize? I was thinking about getting a bag and trying it but don’t want to remove anodize

 

[Shaner]

Do you think 0000 steel wool would remove the anodize? I was thinking about getting a bag and trying it but don’t want to remove anodize

I buffed mine off. While it does seem to shine better when polished, it needs the same treatment as aluminum wheels.

Also, once you remove the anodize it doesn't match the rest of the moulding.

Try the 0000 steel wool on your old piece. I use 0000 on my glass...might work for the trim.

 

[cheveslakr]

I've tried steel wool, no luck, then went to a test piece and sanded away with up to 220 grit....lots of work and getting in the tight crotches just isn't possible. The answer is acid.

 

[Nashville Cat]

What about WD-40 with the 0000 steel wool ? Then Mother's Polish.

 

[cheveslakr]

You can't polish an anodized finish. You have to remove it.

 

[Nashville Cat]

You can't polish an anodized finish. You have to remove it.

I think that's exactly what the kid in the video did.

 

[cheveslakr]

That bike frame was not anodized. The test is to rub it a bit with some polish, if it the rag turns a bit greyish it has not been anodized.

 

[Nashville Cat]

How to Clean and Polish Anodized Aluminum​

A lot of trim pieces on older cars were made of aluminum that was anodized. Anodizing is an effective way to create a hard, weather resistant surface that will
last a number of years without tarnishing. Eventually, however, the metal surface becomes stained and scratched and looking generally dull, so much so that it
either needs to be replaced or cleaned.

Unfortunately, anodized surfaces don't clean well. In fact, if you scrub or polish such a surface all you will get is a shiny drab-looking finished product. In order
to properly clean and polish aluminum you have to de-anodize it.

Sounds difficult, doesn't it? After all, the anodizing process requires acid baths, cleaning steps and electric current, not to mention timing equipment and dyes
(for those colored surfaces like brackets, etc.) One would think, therefore, that de-anodizing would require the same materials, only in reverse order.

That would be nice and effective, but it turns out that aluminum is one of those metals that can be chemically de-anodized. All you need is the right chemical, and
you can find it in your grocery store. The "magic" chemical is sodium hydroxide, and it is the active ingredient in drain cleaners (Drano). It comes in liquid and crystal
form and we find the dry crystals are the most effective (and least expensive.)

All you need to de-anodize your piece of aluminum is a shallow pan large enough in which to lay it. You'll need warm water, rubber gloves, eye protection and, of
course the drain cleaner. Fill the pan with enough warm water to cover the piece and then add enough drain cleaner to do the job — we find that 1 tablespoon of
cleaner to one gallon of water will de-anodize a couple pieces like headlight bezels.

Mix the cleaner thoroughly in the water and place the aluminum piece in it. Make sure there's air movement over the pan, since the vapors can be a bit caustic.
Watch the bubbles form on the aluminum and lift it out every minute or so to remove the accumulated "smut." Smut is the chemical residue that forms during
the de-anodizing process and you want to remove it periodically to expose the surface to the chemical. If the process is going too slowly you can add more cleaner.

After a few minutes you will see that the piece is a uniform, flat color. Stains and blemishes should have disappeared, leaving only scratches. Take the piece out and
rinse thoroughly with fresh water. Dry it off and inspect for any residual anodized spots, which show up as darker surface finish. If there are any, immerse the piece
in the chemical for a little longer and rub them out. Rinse and dry again.

Now you can sand your piece with 800 grit paper to remove scratches and then buff the surface to a bright shine. It will remain a soft surface unless you anodize it again,
but that takes equipment and a little experience. We find that keeping a coat of wax on the piece prevents tarnishing and staining. Also, you can spray the piece with clear
lacquer or enamel to protect it in harsher environments.

Cleaning and Polishing Anodized Aluminum

www.secondchancegarage.com

 

[Nashville Cat]

Here you go : $6 at Walmart. 100% sodium hydroxide for de-anodizing aluminum trim

 

[Shaner]

Any metal can be polished. You just have to have the right stuff. It may not be made to be polished, but I've shined my eyebrow moulding with a stiff pad and red...

Take a hard 3-4 inch buffing pad and put it on a die grinder and go to town. It comes off.

 

[Shovelrick]

It just has some spots that look like water spots on a glass

 

[Nashville Cat]

The process that article says to follow sounds best to me. Strip it, wash it clean and hand polish with a good polish.
Easy peasy

 

[Shovelrick]

The process that article says to follow sounds best to me. Strip it, wash it clean and hand polish with a good polish.
Easy peasy

I'm going to try polishing more to see if the light spots come out if not I'll strip & polish then heavy wax it

 

[Nashville Cat]

I'm going to try polishing more to see if the light spots come out if not I'll strip & polish then heavy wax it

If I do this I think I'll clearcoat the pieces.
Now we need to debate which clear coat

 

[Shovelrick]

Well Mothers wheel polish didn’t do anything, thinking of trying some paint buffing compound I have and if that don’t work it’s getting that WD40 & Steel Wool treatment, buffing wheel on grinder didn't do as good as Elbow Grease with a Micro Fiber clothe did

 

[Nashville Cat]

Well Mothers wheel polish didn’t do anything, thinking of trying some paint buffing compound I have and if that don’t work it’s getting that WD40 & Steel Wool treatment

Jerry (and that article) said you have to remove the anodizing first or it won't polish up.
At least that's how I read it.
Drop it in a bath of water and one tablespoon drano. Wipe it down and reinsert in bath 2 or 3 times and that should remove the old dull anodizing.
Then polish it and either wax or clearcoat it
-----------

All you need to de-anodize your piece of aluminum is a shallow pan large enough in which to lay it. You'll need warm water, rubber gloves, eye protection and, of
course the drain cleaner. Fill the pan with enough warm water to cover the piece and then add enough drain cleaner to do the job — we find that 1 tablespoon of
cleaner to one gallon of water will de-anodize a couple pieces like headlight bezels.
Watch the bubbles form on the aluminum and lift it out every minute or so to remove the accumulated "smut." Smut is the chemical residue that forms during
the de-anodizing process and you want to remove it periodically to expose the surface to the chemical.
After a few minutes you will see that the piece is a uniform, flat color. Stains and blemishes should have disappeared, leaving only scratches. Take the piece out and
rinse thoroughly with fresh water. Dry it off and inspect for any residual anodized spots, which show up as darker surface finish. If there are any, immerse the piece
in the chemical for a little longer and rub them out. Rinse and dry again.

 

[Shovelrick]

Jerry (and that article) said you have to remove the anodizing first or it won't polish up.
At least that's how I read it.
Drop it in a bath of water and one tablespoon drano. Wipe it down and reinsert in bath 2 or 3 times and that should remove the old dull anodizing.
Then polish it and either wax or clearcoat it
-----------

All you need to de-anodize your piece of aluminum is a shallow pan large enough in which to lay it. You'll need warm water, rubber gloves, eye protection and, of
course the drain cleaner. Fill the pan with enough warm water to cover the piece and then add enough drain cleaner to do the job — we find that 1 tablespoon of
cleaner to one gallon of water will de-anodize a couple pieces like headlight bezels.

I need to do the orig head light bezels too so might as well do it all at the same time, you know back when I was in my teens this stuff was never an issue

 

[Shovelrick]

Tried the WD40 and steel wool WO stripping and wasted 30 min so Sunday I’ll be stripping