68 Convertible front suspension too high

[edbreyer]

I want to lower the front of my 68 malibu convertible by about 1.5" to 2". The previous owner told me that about 6 years ago he installed new coil springs (front #6330 Standard 1969 & back #5409 HD for 327V8) and shocks (Carquest Sensa-Trac) that raised the car 3” in front & 1-1/2" in back.

The front is definitley too high (big gap between top of front tires and wheelwell edge/rim). I'm going to use a shop for this work because I am not equiped for spring work. The shop wants to try cutting the front springs first - followed by installing new springs if cutting doesn't get the height right. However, I'm concerned that cutting the springs might stiffen the the car ride - which I don't want.

I'm willing to order new/correct springs but the problem is determining which are the "correct" springs for a 68 small block (non-original crate 350) convertable - that has a Vintage-Aire A/C system (which I beleive is lighter than factory A/C).

So far it seems the Eaton website (https://eatondetroitspring.com/db/es-partsinquiry2.php) may offer a decent match (Eaton MC3040) - but it is for a 68 with a 327 and no factory A/C.

You guys have tons of experience so I'd love to get your thoughts/suggestions.

 

[edbreyer]

 

[kmakar]

Don't even consider cutting the springs as it'll result in a stiffer ride with minimal travel.

If it has after market A/C, it weighs about half of what a stock A/C system weighs, so depending on if you want a stiffer or softer ride will be the difference between with factory A/C or without.

 

[Shovelrick]

I have a 68 coupe with an alum headed big block & VA and when I first started putting the car together put Eaton from NPD (I like NPD) Extra HD rear springs, AC iron headed big block springs in the front and now the car rides like a new 1/2 pick up, very similar to my Ram 1500 that I bought new, IMHO Do Not waste shop labor hours cutting springs, UMI has very nice spring sets for different driving styles, once I get a few other projects wrapped up (trans swap and final my VA install) I'm swapping to UMI springs front & rear, I'm using Monroe gas shocks that seem pretty good but might change after spring swap?

 

[edbreyer]

Don't even consider cutting the springs as it'll result in a stiffer ride with minimal travel.

If it has after market A/C, it weighs about half of what a stock A/C system weighs, so depending on if you want a stiffer or softer ride will be the difference between with factory A/C or without.

Great info about A/C weight and spring cutting! This is a summer weekend family cruser car - not a hot rod - so want a softer ride. So, sounds like I need the "No A/C" springs.

 

[kmakar]

Great info about A/C weight and spring cutting! This is a summer weekend family cruser car - not a hot rod - so want a softer ride. So, sounds like I need the "No A/C" springs.

That'd be the direction I'd go. I don't do hot rods anymore, just cruisers.

 

[edbreyer]

I have a 68 coupe with an alum headed big block & VA and when I first started putting the car together put Eaton from NPD (I like NPD) Extra HD rear springs, AC iron headed big block springs in the front and now the car rides like a new 1/2 pick up, very similar to my Ram 1500 that I bought new, IMHO Do Not waste shop labor hours cutting springs, UMI has very nice spring sets for different driving styles, once I get a few other projects wrapped up (trans swap and final my VA install) I'm swapping to UMI springs front & rear, I'm using Monroe gas shocks that seem pretty good but might change after spring swap?

Appreciate your insights! Based on the feedback I'm going to try to avoid the spring cutting option - but I just can't afford trying multiple spring sets that don't give me the right height (I'm assuming springs can't be returned once installed). Are you saying you don't like Eaton springs - or that the ones you choose were designed for a very firm ride? I'll also look into UMI.

 

[edbreyer]

Here are a few pics. Unfortunately, none are straight-on side shots at front wheel height (to better show the excessive height) because I've always tried to conceal it a bit when taking photos. But if it happened to be parked facing up a bit of an incline it really looks like it's about to launch.
I had a 68 Malibu hardtop as a teen and it had a standard stance - which is what I'm striving for. After looking at other non SS 68s, I think if the center of the hub cap was about at the same height as the door bottom edge (i.e. extend an imagiary line from the door bottom) - it would be about right for me. Does that sound right?

 

[kmakar]

That is a bit high and you can tell right off. I'd say it needs to come down about 2.5" to 3".

 

[kmakar]

Also, bear in mind you'll need an alignment after you swap the springs, and be prepared as the car will handle a little differently.

 

[edbreyer]

I've considered coilovers (and am still open to them) - but read that to do it right I'd need to replace additional suspension components because the kits that supposedly swap in put too much stress on certain components and are therefore prone to premature wear. Here's a discussion about that concern - skip down to POST #10:
Which spring rate for front QA1 Coil over on '68

Any thoughts/suggestions on that option?

 

[kmakar]

I've considered coilovers (and am still open to them) - but read that to do it right I'd need to replace additional suspension components because the kits that supposedly swap in put too much stress on certain components and are therefore prone to premature wear. Here's a discussion about that concern - skip down to POST #10:
Which spring rate for front QA1 Coil over on '68

Any thoughts/suggestions on that option?

I haven't done coil overs, but Derek @Derek69SS has and he'd be the one to ask.

 

[Shovelrick]

Appreciate your insights! Based on the feedback I'm going to try to avoid the spring cutting option - but I just can't afford trying multiple spring sets that don't give me the right height (I'm assuming springs can't be returned once installed). Are you saying you don't like Eaton springs - or that the ones you choose were designed for a very firm ride? I'll also look into UMI.

I went into 1976 mentality like I would’ve done when I was 16, HD everything lol, but I do have tubular front upper and lower control arms that came with a 1/4” plate that went under the lower poly spring cushion and after removing it that dropped my front end 1/2” so IMO it’s just right as far as ride height goes, I seen yours on OCS and it looks way too high, I don’t remember my spring part numbers since it was about 10 yrs ago when I put them in but my rear springs look to have twice as many coils as most springs I’ve seen under 68-72 Chevelle’s, in fact I can’t remember seeing another with that many coils, I’ll try to post a pic this weekend, again I like my ride height just too stiff

 

[Derek69SS]

Cutting coils isn't that bad of an idea other than being just as labor intensive as swapping them, and it's easy to screw up. Don't worry so much about the spring rate change, as ride quality is more determined by shocks than spring rarates. Any lowering spring is going to be higher rate. Stock springs are in the 350# range, and most lowering springs are 450# or more.

Coilovers are great for dialing ride height in exactly how you want it, but I wouldn't use them with stock stamped lower arms.

I ran cut original springs for years when my car was first done. I was a young kid on a tight budget, so labor/time was easier to come by than money.

One thing to look at if you have rubber bushings is to make sure they're not preloaded. Loosen all of the bolts, bounce the suspension a few times, and tighten them back up with the suspension compressed to ride height. This is only an issue with rubber bushings, they should not be tightened with the suspension hanging.

 

[Nashville Cat]

BMR sells a set of 1" lowering springs that give the perfect ride height in most cars.
But they are calibrated for big blocks so the front may end up at the stock height instead of slightly lowered.
But they are downright cheap and I would try them before paying the sky-hi price for eatons

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmr-sp013r/make/chevrolet/model/chevelle/year/1968

 

[Chevelle_Nut]

When you installed the suspension did you leave everything loose until it was on the ground with all of the weight was on the suspension?

 

[cheveslakr]

I'd be interested in first hand testimonies to aftermarket ride height claims vs. real life results. I've heard both sides on that and getting your 4 corner weights accurate before choosing a spring is critical.....alum. engine parts, radiator, other mods come into play.
Personally, I've had great success cutting coils in the front springs and I'm always trying to duplicate the ride and stance of my first chevelle build, a 350 powered malibu which I picked bb springs then cut a full coil.

 

[edbreyer]

UPDATE: After reading all the great input - I told the shop I was heistent to cut the springs versus just replaing them with a different set. Unfortunately, after a lot of internet searching and talking to several spring suppliers it became obvious I'd be rolling the dice hoping to buy the correct replacement springs. So I agreed to let the shop try to cut one loop off the existing springs - and it fortunately brought the height down about 1.75" - which is what I was looking for! Also I haven't noticed any ride degredation. In fact, since they found one of the shocks had a dead spot (so I replaced both) the ride probably feels a bit better than before. Thanks again for all the input!
PS: I first had them lift the car and loosen the control arms then set it back down - to ensure their was no binding holding up the height - which there wasn't.

 

[cheveslakr]

Great Success! That's typically my rule of thumb, half coil for 1 inch drop, full equals 2". It'll likely settle a bit more. Did they torque the bushing bolts after weighting the car?

 

[edbreyer]

Not 100% sure I have the answer - but they did know to not tighten up the control arms while on the lift.