I felt it "seat" when I pushed the filter tube all the way in but didn't hear anything like a snap clip, when I removed the old one I didn't hear anything either and it didn't take much force to remove it, just pull the plastic tube out
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- Thread starter Shovelrick
- Start date
Sounds like you're good.
Very Pretty, I want to hang it on a wall lol
Hum I supplied the slip yokeAttachments
kmakar
Janitor
Very Pretty, I want to hang it on a wall lol
That'll leave a mark.
I like how they terminated the weld. Looks very good. 
I think the front or rear Ujoint or yoke will break before this DS but I’m sure it’ll get ruined when 1 of those parts fail, I do have a 3” X pipe exhaust and a loop I need to add so that might save it?I like how they terminated the weld. Looks very good.
I broke a 1330 joint off the line at 6k rpm, it makes a hell of a racket rattling around the loop. I knew it wouldn't hold, but I had no choice....lol. Your shaft does look good.....hope that's allowed on this site.
I'm adding a loop. Pole vaulting our cars is not good for mental health (or physical)
I already have 1 but need to figure out where to install it since my X Exh is where it should go, guess I’ll put it a little behind the X
Bob at PST said I should have the rear yoke upgraded but I’m not doing that right now, when I had a pro rod/fab shop build the 12 bolt I told them it was going behind a 550hp BB (was planning another 467 like I had in the 80’s) and they said No Problem, think they’d of recd a better front yoke on the rear end when they had it all apart putting the new axles etc in
Rick, I built my 9 inch with all the goodies, everything but a back brace knowing I was going to drop a clutch at 7k in a 600hp 427 and get into 10s with any luck. Pulled the muncie after a few trys at that and installed a faceplated jerico and ceramic clutch. That clutch wasn't up to it, so I pulled it all out and went sintered iron with no marcel......wicked! The driveshaft I had built with 1350 front and back, but when I went jerico, I had to changed the front yoke and shorten the shaft 1 inch. They didn't have the yoke in stock, so they talked me into a 1330, which I sat there and let them convince me it'd hold......they guaranteed it. I knew better and the 3rd time I ran it, it snapped. I was even babying it, not launching at 7k, but 6. I was pissed, but only blamed myself for not holding out for the good stuff.
Another expensive lesson. Hotrodding is expensive and aggravating, but I love it.
Another expensive lesson. Hotrodding is expensive and aggravating, but I love it.
I need to have a driveshaft built like Rick's. My Strange S60 rear (true-trac posi) has a 1350 yoke and I bought a 1350 yoke for my TKX 5 speed (same as a C6 Ford automatic).
The trans will be the weak link for me. It's rated for 600 ft/lbs so it's fairly strong.
People racing manual trans cars (especially LS1 Camaros) say to only use bias ply slicks so they don't "grab" too hard.
Supposedly drag radials will grab and kill a manual, while an automatic will survive.
The trans will be the weak link for me. It's rated for 600 ft/lbs so it's fairly strong.
People racing manual trans cars (especially LS1 Camaros) say to only use bias ply slicks so they don't "grab" too hard.
Supposedly drag radials will grab and kill a manual, while an automatic will survive.
I remember researched all that before I picked out my slicks, which I still have. They're MT bias plys, 11 inch. I remember trying to spin 1/4 turn, but felt safer spinning 1/2....and my car was NOT competitive. I was just having fun, and getting very good at throwing money away.
Work got screwed up by no new part for the 2 month old ac unit I recently installed on the roof of Sunshine Optics (they have 3 more) so changed the oil in my van then put the DS in and poured 6 QTs of B&M Trick Shift in it by then the garage was turning into an oven so wrapped it up and went home Oh trans funnel don’t fit in a Lokar trans dip stick tube so made a funnel lol
