This arrived today:
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- Thread starter JohnC
- Start date
Who’s the Mfg’er? Looks very nice, Billet?
I bought a yoke from Summit that the owner of Precision Shaft Tech. wasn’t too impressed with but said for my power he “thinks” it’ll be ok, said I should definitely change my stock rear end yoke, waiting till it breaks because I want to change the carrier too
That's pretty sexy.
Moser. Not billet. Billet is not a good material to use for yokes - only use forged. This one is 4140 forged chrome moly.
Don't wait for it to break. The resulting carnage will cost you a lot more money then changing it out now. The original slip yoke on my car shattered on the 1-2 shift. It took out the tail housing, output shaft, and dented my exhaust pretty good.
What I Should’ve bought I’m thinking, that’s a 1 and Done yoke you’ll never have to worry about
If it did that to yours with a 500ish HP SBC I guess I better change it soon
That was with my 377 that was making around 450 HP. You have to remember that it was the original slip yoke that had over 200,000 miles on it of hard 1-2 & 2-3 shifts.
I mean at the 12 bolt end, carrier yoke I think it’s called? When I had new Motive axles and bearings, posi rebuilt I told them I had a 550hp BB so they built according to what I told them (before I had this engine) and they said the stock 68 SS rear yoke was fine ( I found a 12 bolt from a 68 SS396 Chevelle) but the owner at PST DS said I should change it and after what Brian said happened to him pretty much confirms that, I’ll start a thread when I change it, also want the 2 series carrier and spacer changed to a 3 series at the same time
Just be sure to go with a 1350 size yoke
I shattered the slip yoke on the transmission end. That being said, I thought that some of the 12 bolt rearends used the 1330 u-joints, which should be stronger than the 1310s.
I believe that was for the '70-'72 454 cars, and from my experience the 1330 is a marginal upgrade compared to 1330 to 1350. I'm not a fan of conversion u-joints as they still have a weak link. I've got a spicer 1350 tranny yoke here and it's beefy.
The Truck Spicer Yoke is tough as nails and when I worked at the stealerships I always swiped them off old driveshafts to use on my stuff. Never broke one. Matter of fact, I've never broke too much driveline stuff with an auto transmission compared to a stick car.
I made a conv U joint out of 2 new joints I had, I have 1350 front slip yoke but what would be stock 68 SS396 rear joint 1330 or 1310?
Denny's says a 1330 forged non-greasable is good to 700 hp.
Maybe these are used at the transmission for better clearance ? the 1350 is larger and may hit the floorboard ?
1310 Series Spicer MAINTENANCE FREE Universal Joint
DANA SPICER 5-1310X
Use this u-joint when you want the most strength out of a 1310 series universal joint. Stronger than a greaseable u-joint. Great for the street rod or muscle car owner who needs reliability and performance.
This size u-joint has been used on American Production cars and light trucks since the mid 50's. General Motors, Ford, American Motors, Studebaker, Mercury, Checker, Jeep, International and even some Dodge and Plymouths have used this size universal joint.
This size u-joint has been used on American Production cars and light trucks since the mid 50's. General Motors, Ford, American Motors, Studebaker, Mercury, Checker, Jeep, International and even some Dodge and Plymouths have used this size universal joint.
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The PST 3.5” alum DS has a forged non greasable rear U joint that’s 1350 on DS side but I don’t know what the rear end U joint size is, it all fits good and DS is rated for 1,200hp but guy said the rear yoke should be changed without actually seeing it, he said the Summit yoke I bought would work for my engine but wouldn’t have been what he’d rec’d, thinking back 700hp for the rear joint is what the owner at PST said but thinks the bolt in yoke would break
My S60 rear is 1350 yoke. I bet a 12 bolt is 1330.
I may want to use a forged 1330 at the trans for floorboard clearance. 700 hp rating is plenty for me.
Safety ratings always have a large "safety factor"; usually 50 to 100%.
Here is a PSA:
When you are installing your driveshaft back into the vehicle, it is best to make sure that the rear u-joint straps are actually lined up on both holes before torquing them down. If this step is skipped, you will have a bad vibration that starts at about 20 MPH.
When you are installing your driveshaft back into the vehicle, it is best to make sure that the rear u-joint straps are actually lined up on both holes before torquing them down. If this step is skipped, you will have a bad vibration that starts at about 20 MPH.