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- Thread starter kmakar
- Start date
Chevelle_Nut
Shop Foreman
You are making progress, how is the airflow thru the vents?
kmakar
Janitor
I haven't got that far yet, I took the rest of yesterday off for sort of a down afternoon to relax before I have to deal with the impending shit show with my "problem" client. They want to extend the contract and I'm going to flat out refuse. I wish I'd never signed the original contract in the first place, but friendship won out and I decided it was the right thing to do, so now this is just the fallout, but the limit has been set (by my executing the termination clause), and the last day is June 30th, and they are acutely aware that they are not getting things done in a timely fashion and are trying to push off the date because they already recognize their impending failure to meet the date.
That aside, I have to pull the furnace out, but before that, I have to pull the fridge so I can get clear access to support the air handler from the shelf that supports the fridge, then tie in the ductwork. Having a hell of a time locating all the parts (which I finally got) to do the job.
Pending how much I have to deal with this client this week, I'm hoping to have the system up and running by Wednesday or Thursday, then run some actual tests, but based on my calculations, the unit should be perfectly sized.
After that, it'll be time to strip the roof of A/C's, antennas (satellite, and OTA), fridge vent, the shower bubble, and roof vents and repair those holes. Then onto fitting the solar panels to the roof, remove the panels themselves (leaving the mounting brackets) and seal the roof with 100% silicone roofing sealer (3 coats of Henry's Tropi-cool), then remount the panels and move onto building the solar setup.
Lisa already purchased all new LED lighting for inside BABs and is picking out the color of the paint to refinish the cabinets and woodwork (updating to our taste).
I would think a Pioneer 9000 btu model would be fine ?
kmakar
Janitor
I bought a 12,000 BTU unit given it's a motorhome and not insulated like a house. The base rule of thumb is 40 BTU per square foot for an RV.
That makes the 12,000 BTU just a hair oversized, but given there will be 3 people inside (Lisa, my autistic son, and myself) each generating 1,500 BTU of heat, it should be perfectly sized for even in hot and humid climates like Florida.
Sounds like an awesome setup
kmakar
Janitor
Sounds like an awesome setup
Since you're retired now, and we plan on a nationwide trip, if you're up to it, we can stop by and say hello (when we finally hit the road), and you can see BABs for yourself.
Chevelle_Nut
Shop Foreman
How are you going to enclose the old refrigerator vent?
kmakar
Janitor
Having a custom insulated exterior hatch made for it by recpro.com because I'll need access to the back to tie in the 12v for the compressor. The holes where the furnace went outside will be filled and then either fiberglassed or mudded then finished.
Chevelle_Nut
Shop Foreman
Awesome! Manufacturers learned that an access hatch is needed for servicing.
That would be great
kmakar
Janitor
Bad part is there is a 10 to 12 week lead time, so, not sure if I'll still be here then, so I may have to have it shipped to my brother's place.
kmakar
Janitor
The A/C is up and running and doing well with a few caviots. I was hoping to have more static pressure coming from the ducted air handler, but alas it's pushing its heart out but can't overcome pushing the air enough to cool the air at ceiling height. So, I have a new plan that involves removing all the floor ducts and install new flex to exit at the ceiling level. Requires a bit more work, but in the long run it'll be worth it. On a high note, the new ducted mini split is only drawing between 375 to 400 watts in full cool mode which is phenomenal. That'll make it easy to run our A/C when boondocking. Also the new twin stage 5CFM vacuum pump I bought works great. Here are some pics. I'll update more when I redo the flex.
Way to go Kevin! What you are doing would make my brother-in-law proud! He passed in May 2015, but he was very similar in things he could build. He loved solar, was an owner/partner in a mobile home & modular home business most of his life. He could do just about everything...no college education, just an excellent hands-on grip of things...it came natural to him. He could operate any kind of equipment...he always became "one with the machine" regardless of what it was! He helped me with my garage and helped me rebuild our house after our house fire in 2008. I can't do almost everything you are doing but I watched him do such things....just amazing work, and best of luck to you and Lisa with everything!
John
John
I wonder if a 2 ton mini-split would pull a lot less current than my 2.5 ton central heat pump ?
My heat pump is only 14 seer. I have a current measuring device (forgot what it's called)
My heat pump is only 14 seer. I have a current measuring device (forgot what it's called)
kmakar
Janitor
It would. Here's a quick way to calculate what it would pull for power (ballpark). BTU size divided by SEER rating.
Example of my system I just installed: 12,000 / 21.5 = 558.139 which basically means it'll pull at max load 558 watts per hour running, but efficiency can be conservative like in my new system that only pulled a max of 400 watts.
Same calculation for your current system would be 30,000 BTU / 14 = 2,142.85 watts per hour to run.