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Bummed that it has been ten years and my 68 is not finished.

Well hell, looks like a decent set of headers for a 68 with Muncie and angle plug heads are going to very hard to find.
May have to make my own.
Not a terrible job, if my eyes were still any good.
Any suggestions?
 
Summit coated headers, or if you think you’ll be doing a lot of dents & dings get bare steel painted black do the dings then coating, I bought Patriot coated headers and for the small dings I cut off a broom handle, put it where I needing a ding and hit the broom handle with a BFH
 
I've got angle plug 492s on my CJ with fenderwall headers, and I've thought about underbody headers and pipes. My answer would be hack off the flange, add chuncks of pipe and rotate the lower header back into original position. I did something very similar with my '55 chevy fenderwall headers as they were crowding the back of the front tire.
 
Looks like I finally have the answer for my distributor-less ignition.
My old (Cheap!) MS2 V3.0 will handle the timing in conjunction with a 60-2 "Missing teeth" wheel and a pair of four terminal wasted spark coils.
Apparently I do not even need an EDIS-8 or Quadspark units.
Naturally I will be testing all this before it gets near the engine.
I do need to find a good starting point ignition curve to program in.
 
Hmmm, looks like I am probably selling my Morris Minor Pickup to fund buying a VMC.
Seems I need a VMC/Income more than three trucks. :unsure:
But that leaves me with no economy truck to drive.
So now thinking of getting an economy minded engine for daily driving.
Another 327, 350, 305, TBI type FI?
I would still have the Muncie with GV overdrive.
With my 'Glass front clip doing an engine swap before play days would not be THAT hard, right?
 
Making plans to have some fun this summer and decided I need a "Long legged" car as in Nevada nothing is nearby.
Found that my Lotus will be great in the hills, but cruising speed on the freeway is only 80MPH, if I want the engine to last a reasonable time. 6K redline.

So I found my El Camino numbers and began playing with a final drive calculator.
27" rear tires, 3.92 gears, 0.778 GV OD, 100 MPH at 3800 RPM.
That would have to be night flying, so 80 MPH at 3000 RPM will be more common.
And just because, 65 MPH at 2500 RPM, and a theoretical 184 MPH at 7000 RPM.
158 MPH at 6000 RPM may just get to happen, at least once.
As I recall this engine will be "On the cam" at 3200-6800 RPM.
Yah, I may have overbuilt this one just a wee bit.

Seems I may have to get the Alfa Romeo going for distance with reasonable economy.
 
Bent the needle?
Why I have an SW speedo that goes to 200 MPH.
Oh, and my cam is 3000-6900 RPM.
So just on the cam at 80 MPH in OD.
 
After long thought the El Camino has moved up in build priority.
I was undecided about doing it or the Alfa Romeo first.
I need a long legged car for distance, they both have overdrive.
Alfa should be less work as no fabrication is needed, but has sat twenty years.
El Camino DOES need significant fabrication, but the entire drivetrain is NEW!
New wins.
 
Step forward, step back, repeat until fixed.
Put my oil pan on today. Then had to take it off.
Somewhere the crank was hitting something when I turned it over.
that did not make sense, new Kevco Road Race pan and only a 3.25" stroke.
After trying a few things I think it is a counterweight just barely hitting the forward mounting stud for the sump baffle.
I remember being disappointed that Eagle did not reduce the counterweight diameter to accompany the reduced stroke.

Next bit of "Joy", I have no valve covers that will clear the shaft mount roller rockers.
I had a really trick Larson set but sold them as I did not want to modify them to clear my pushrods.
Not sure what I will end up with, I may have to make my own faux Larson style.
I would not mind too much if that were simpler to do.
I do not like the look of the standard sheet-metal fabricated covers but may resort to them.
 
Can you find decent used alum SBC VC’s and mod as needed to get the engine finished then change later?
 
Those moroso tall valve covers will clear, and they look all right imo. I'm with you, I can't stand the al. fabricated covers, the stamped al. are a bit better. The old M/Ts would likely clear also.
 
I'm not understanding, but a pic would make it clear I'm sure. I bought a set of Harland Sharpe alum. rockers for my bbc, and number 8 intake and number 1 intake both had to be clearanced for the M/T covers. All of them rubbed on the base of the stud, which I also clearanced for that. Nothing in the aftermarket should be taken for granted as to plug and play.
As for the oil pan, I used a 350 pan on a 400sbc, and spun it.......no way, no how, had to go aftermarket. Had to clearance the baffle and oil pump support supplied by milodon on my current 427. They likely have sold thousands of these and here I am hacking their stuff to make it fit. Clay is your friend when assembling any engine.
 

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cheveslakr said:
I'm not understanding, but a pic would make it clear I'm sure. I bought a set of Harland Sharpe alum. rockers for my bbc, and number 8 intake and number 1 intake both had to be clearanced for the M/T covers. All of them rubbed on the base of the stud, which I also clearanced for that. Nothing in the aftermarket should be taken for granted as to plug and play.
As for the oil pan, I used a 350 pan on a 400sbc, and spun it.......no way, no how, had to go aftermarket. Had to clearance the baffle and oil pump support supplied by milodon on my current 427. They likely have sold thousands of these and here I am hacking their stuff to make it fit. Clay is your friend when assembling any engine.
Click to expand...
I had to make numerous clearance mods on the Summit/Moroso oil pan on my 489, counter weights hit scraper, windage screen and having 4 bolt main studs had to cut them shorter and put a cpl holes in the screen for the studs
 
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