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Bummed that it has been ten years and my 68 is not finished.

Richard150MPH said:
A little more progress on the EC engine today.
I installed checking springs into #1.
I put some balls of clay on the top of the piston in several spots.
Assembled the shaft rockers and set the adjusters 1.5 turns down from all the way up.
Found my best valve stem pattern with just the intermediate thickness shims.
Also determined pushrod length with adjusters 1.5 turns down and .020 lash.
Intake 7.921", Exhaust 7.891" end to end.
.030" difference is not a real surprise as these are splayed heads.
Except for quench my balls of clay remained untouched so I have plenty of clearance.
I may repeat this one more time with thicker clay to get a more exact measurement.
My valve lift is not extreme so I was always confident they would clear.
I could almost put the heads on for real now.

One concern does come up.
Every stud is a "Wet" hole.
ARP wants me to use their lube on the threads but I doubt that it is a super sealant.
What are you guys using?
Click to expand...
When I was talking to Mike Lewis aka Wolfplace I asked him what was best to seal bolts going into water or Int/Exh ports, he rec’d a sealer that IIRC is called Hylar? or Permatex High Perf thread sealer which is what I used since I couldn’t find the Hylar?
 
Yes that's what Mike was talking about

This is cheaper and can be ordered through Walmart
www.jbtools.com

Loctite 37397 PST 592 - Thread Sealant

Buy Loctite 37397 PST 592 - Thread Sealant with an everyday low price and fast shipping! JB Tools
www.jbtools.com www.jbtools.com

This is carried by Amazon, Permatex hi-temp sealant. I'm getting this one because free shipping (I can use it on head bolts and O2 sensors)
 
Last edited:
Going to try to finish modifying my heads for pushrod clearance today.
With that done I can finally bolt them on.
Question becomes, install the ARP studs first so that I may see how well they seal at the block, or after so the head goes on easier?
 
Follow ARP install instructions, IIRC don’t tighten the studs but I can’t swear to that, I used Permatex Premium or Prof thread sealer on all studs but really only need if they go into water
 
Anxious to FINALLY put the heads on my engine.
But I need to stamp the block first since decking it removed the old numbers.
Since it is blank and this build is partially aimed at having fun with the ignorant I intend to make the engine build date the matching partial VIN, build date my birthday, and the highest HP 1968 suffix code available.
I was going to us HT for a Corvette L76 engine but those may not have been available in 1968?
With solid lifters this engine really is closer to an L76 than anything else Chevy ever made.
If L76/HT does not work what would, L79 ES or EP?
327" solid lifters and 4-Speed.

EDIT: Fremont built so Z and last of the vin.
Engine T0502??
?? is HT, ES or EP.
 
Either will work, but it probably won't fool anyone. You may get an occasional interest, but chances are if they know where to look and know the code they also know what the broaching should look like.
 
Not really looking to fool anyone, a simple look at the casting numbers will show it is a 4-bolt 350 block.
Just looking for what might have been if I had ordered it new.
And to mess with the kids heads. ;)
 
Richard150MPH said:
Not really looking to fool anyone, a simple look at the casting numbers will show it is a 4-bolt 350 block.
Just looking for what might have been if I had ordered it new.
And to mess with the kids heads. ;)
Click to expand...
I’d probably put my 3 initials, year you built it and 365HP WTH
 
I am expecting a bit more than 365 HP. ;)
Goal has always been at least 400 HP.
According to various HP calculators I should exceed that fairly well.
 
Okay, now I'm unsure if I should go with ARP's suggested torque of 80 PSI on these vintage aluminum heads?
Some folk suggest a 10% reduction for aluminum heads.
Other have had valve leakage issues at 80 PSI that did not come up at 65 PSI.
Not sure if I should go to the full 80 PSI or chicken out at 70 PSI?
Gaskets are multilayer 14096405.
 
After stripping threads in a 400 block, I'm ultra skiddish going to full torque. Bolt stretch is what it is, I can't see head composition as determining, but a call to ARP would be my next move.
 
I wouldn't torque that much and typically fall just short of factory spec, but I did have bolt stretch in my ford 6.0 diesel and it got new ARP studs torqued to ARP specs.
 
Digging around the web is seems AFR says 65-70 PSI when you can find anything other than "Contact the bolt manufacturer".
I think I am going with 70 PSI.
Aluminum will grow a bit more than iron when hot.
 
70 PSI it is, and they are on at last.
Great to use up hardware and no longer have to keep track of it.
Still have to get my pushrods ordered and notch the edge of the valve covers.
Angle plug heads so headers are going to be an expensive PITA.
 
Since I am trapped it was a good day to do some inventory on the 327 to remember where I stand with it.
I need to shorten the ignition pointer, hopefully on the lathe.
Confirmed there is no way my old headers will work with these heads. (n)
Anyone have an opinion on PRW Competition+ water pumps?
They are one of the few offering US Made (?) polished aluminum.
Need to set up a dummy system to configure my distributor-less ignition.
Have to figure out what I am doing about crank-case venting since the Webers have no vacuum porting.
Also need to figure out how I will be sealing the Larsen valve covers to the heads.
Come on warmer weather!
 
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