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Bummed that it has been ten years and my 68 is not finished.

I need to buy a set to work with.
Figuring they will attach to the metal framework I have to construct.
I have also considered aluminum wheel tubs instead.
Unfortunate the Elky is not job one right now with no space to work on it.
 
Whatever Summit are selling are not getting good reviews.
But looking at the pics reminded me how they mount.
Time to learn to weld Aluminum since I am leaning toward fabricating my own.
I have to put something under there or I will get rock chips in my fiberglass from the tires.
 
I may be the only Elky project on this board?
In any case my recent trip to San Diego really helped solidify my plans.
EC will be my GT Touring car, with the price of motel$ now, being able to stretch out in back will be luxury.
Never want to drive a big truck a long ways again, ever.
Intending to modify the tail-gate to hold some tools and spares, it is basically hollow and does not carry glass like a wagon.
Planning to make the inner panel quick detach for access.
Need to get my two-post lift fixed ASAP so that I may get back to the EC this winter.
I actually considered just putting the EC back together without doing the trick Jag rear suspension, to get it done faster.
But then I would probably never get around to it and having only half the car I originally intended would eat at me.
 
Our Furry kids Dr and friend of mine built ( he restores and builds restomods for a hobby and Excellent at it) a 72 Camaro from a 2011 or 13? Camaro, firewall, a/c, drive train, completely modded in the dash, console & Int But he said it wasn't possible to put the IRS in, or Impractical so IMHO I'd leave it a Live axle, put the big trucks engine in it and DD it till you finish building the 327 & whatever trans you're thinking about using then in 1 weekend swap them over
 
Maybe 10 or 15 years ago I'd have done it all in 1 long day (and I have done it), but I don't rush and kill myself anymore. When I swap engines/drivetrain I give myself 2 days so nothing gets missed.
Yeah my days of engine/trans swaps in 1 day by myself are over, heck with 2-3 guys helping the last time took 3 days with a 2 post lift lol PS I think the 3 Stooges would've been proud of us :ROFLMAO:
 
Jag IRS is simpler than might be expected since I have an actual frame to work with.
Body is already mostly removed so now I have to finish the job as some of the old fasteners failed.
No matter what engine I use the Muncie goes in, I got rid of the TH400 years ago.
Quick detach 'Glass front clip would make an engine swap a LOT easier.
 
I must be getting old?
Actually considering putting the AC system back in the El Camino. :(
I know AC is a parasite that eats power and mileage.

The big obstacles to completing the El Camino are the engine and assembling the Jag IRS.
Jag center section is ready so I need to do the axles and uprights.
Just ordered the shaft rockers for the engine.
So hopefully dollars spent equals progress. :unsure:
 
Maybe it's been a bit since you've experienced the benefits of vent windows, they really help. Couple that with light colored cloth instead of vinyl seats, big bonus. Were those Canfields an early to mid 80s head? I've got a pair of 1st design AFRs for sbc, they really work on my 406. Their 190cc.
 
Brownfield are the same as early AFR.
Truck I just sold had vent windows, I guess they went away when AC became standard in everything.
Yep, cloth interior is a plan.
I bought a commercial sewing machine I will practice on this winter.
 
Dug up my notes.

1968 El Camino fast road car.
Build specifications.
Target weight of 3,200 pounds or less.
7K RPM 333" SBC at 10.75-1 with 4X44 IDF Weber intake, Muncie M20 with GV overdrive, 3.92 rear gears, all wheel disc brakes.
Exterior to retain a nearly stock early seventies mild hot-rod look.

Engine: 333 Cu. In., "327", Target HP 365-400, 7K max sustained RPM.
Bore 4.040
Stroke 3.25"
Cylinder head volume 64cc
Net piston volume 3.0cc
Deck clearance -0.010"
Compressed gasket thickness .028"
8 cylinders.
Compression 11.52-1 ? Target was 10.75-1
Displacement 333.29" - 5463.77cc
Pistons, Custom JE forged pistons #368882
Heads, Brownfield Aluminum (Same as early AFR) refurbished at "Heads By Rick" in LV.
Flow at .550", Int. 295 CFM - Ex. 191 CFM.
Crankshaft, Eagle 327 3.25" stroke, large journal.
Eagle 5.7" rods.

Cam, Crower #CRO-00323
Cam Style:Mechanical flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range:3,000-6,900
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:256
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:262
Duration at 050 inch Lift:256 int./262 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration:294
Advertised Exhaust Duration:300
Advertised Duration:294 int./300 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.528 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.545 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.528 int./0.545 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees):114
Grind Number:294SF
Camshaft Manufacturers Description:
Headers, dual exhaust, large cfm carburetor, performance ignition and increased compression of 10.25:1 and above is required. Cylinder head modifications would be beneficial. Use with automatic transmission with high stall torque converter or manual transmission.
Close attention to proper ring and pinion gear set and tire diameter is imperative.
Lifters, Crower "Cool face" #84326X980
Intake, 4x Weber 44 IDF for a total of 1169.2 CFM.
IR Intake works differently than a 4V Holly type as each runner only has to handle a single colum of fuel/air and one cylinder will not "Rob" an adjoining cylinder. The individual cylinders also have less air mass to move so this engine should rev up like a superbike!

Jaguar IRS Rear suspension, 3.92 gears and Power-Loc, rebuilt by Hamilton Automotive.
Transmission, rebuilt Muncie M20 with 2.52 first gear.
Overdrive by Gear Vendors, .78
Brakes, four wheel disc.
Rear tires 27" Dia.
Front body, Stock appearance fiberglass by U.S Body.
One-piece tilt with a forward hinging functional 2" cowl induction hood.
Radiator, Aluminum.
Bed topper, Aluminum.

Lots of custom fabrication to be done, particularly for the JAG IRS, front body/hood mounts, and functional cowl induction.
I will try to document each step of this build.

This El Camino is for my own use as a true GT car that happens to be capable of hauling light loads.
 
I must be getting old?
Actually considering putting the AC system back in the El Camino. :(
I know AC is a parasite that eats power and mileage.

The big obstacles to completing the El Camino are the engine and assembling the Jag IRS.
Jag center section is ready so I need to do the axles and uprights.
Just ordered the shaft rockers for the engine.
So hopefully dollars spent equals progress. :unsure:
I love my A/C
 
X2 on AC, 20+ yrs ago Id take a Buck knife to the belt lol, We’ll I should take that statement back my 76 T/A had working AC back in the 80’s
 
With prices constantly going up I want to get my plastic inner fenders ordered.
I know some despise plastic but I may end up just using them to create molds for fiberglass, or heavily modifying them as I will have a tilt front.
Plastic should be much easier to work with and lighter.
The question then becomes which of the relatively inexpensive plastic fenders are best.
No I will NOT be getting $500 Goodmark parts. :rolleyes:
 
With prices constantly going up I want to get my plastic inner fenders ordered.
I know some despise plastic but I may end up just using them to create molds for fiberglass, or heavily modifying them as I will have a tilt front.
Plastic should be much easier to work with and lighter.
The question then becomes which of the relatively inexpensive plastic fenders are best.
No I will NOT be getting $500 Goodmark parts. :rolleyes:
To keep the front end light I'd leave the plastic inner fenders in they will look a lot more correct and why make more work for yourself, my guess is they're all made in the same V.N. factory, I'd be looking for Cheapest with Good customer service/shipping reviews, JMO
 
I have back issues, and solid lifters.
Since this is one of my keep forever cars the tilt front is to provide easy access to the engine.
Wanting the inner fenders to be simple to remove too, hoping to attach with Dzus fasteners.
 
On Friday I bugged Scorpion again for my rockers.
Seems they loaned a fixture to someone who is being slow to return it.
Hard to believe they loan out critical tooling but I guess they are old school and trusting.
 
On Friday I bugged Scorpion again for my rockers.
Seems they loaned a fixture to someone who is being slow to return it.
Hard to believe they loan out critical tooling but I guess they are old school and trusting.
So No ETA for rockers? I'd check Harland Sharp, they also make Straub tech (I'm using them) & AFR
 
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