Sure. Im at work now but I’ll measure this evening
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- Thread starter JohnC
- Start date
That console you pictured has a custom alum. plate over the entire top. Could be a 4 speed or automatic console. I gotta say, if I was using that storage facility and had other tenants abusing the rules so often I'd move. Pretty liberal enforcement of the policies imo......unless all that is in the rulebook.
It’s kinda funny she has Trump and very conservative things written on her car like “You can thank your Mom for choosing Life” I’ve sent her pics via text and she said she was trying to figure out where he could park the trailer, I parked my van in a vacant spot today to keep it away from black over spray and the spots been vacant for months so I don’t know, 2 yrs ago a nice shop was supposed to be available after a client husband passed away but the client decided to sell the property and never mentioned it being for sale, I asked her about renting it well after he had passed because I didn’t want to be pushy and she said she still needed to get his things out of there, I asked again about 2 months later and she said she sold it (great ac shop location) I said I would’ve been interested why didn’t you call me, she said I thought you just wanted to rent,
This place I’ve been at since 2016 and 2-12’ wide 24’ deep for $390 a month is a steal around here, this Fd up city won’t let me put up a metal prefab but will Help (LOL) me put in a 2 car garage with a 2-3 bedroom apt above it, I did get the shifter cable & speedo cable changed just a little tight not being able to open doors all the way, the orig speedo cable got against the headers on the 454 and this Shiftworks shift cable adjusts at both ends and seems Very nice 
looking at the pics I see a TC inspec cover bolt I need to tighten 
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Richard150MPH
Veteran Member
Gathered up all the parts for the Locost I sold. It will be picked up and the balance paid in a couple of weeks.
Funds are already committed to parts and bills.
Began clearing excess appliances and varied dish-ware from the kitchen to go into storage.
Should probably just donate it as once in storage it will never be used, but Mom wants to keep it all.
Funds are already committed to parts and bills.
Began clearing excess appliances and varied dish-ware from the kitchen to go into storage.
Should probably just donate it as once in storage it will never be used, but Mom wants to keep it all.
The gentleman with the B&am shifter I posted earlier sent a message saying he made a piece of alum for a top plate and detailed how he did it and used a Megashifter, I like it but going to look up specs since I need a reverse pattern and want ratcheting, slap shift is Great but would like to change it up now and thenIt’s kinda funny she has Trump and very conservative things written on her car like “You can thank your Mom for choosing Life” I’ve sent her pics via text and she said she was trying to figure out where he could park the trailer, I parked my van in a vacant spot today to keep it away from black over spray and the spots been vacant for months so I don’t know, 2 yrs ago a nice shop was supposed to be available after a client husband passed away but the client decided to sell the property and never mentioned it being for sale, I asked her about renting it well after he had passed because I didn’t want to be pushy and she said she still needed to get his things out of there, I asked again about 2 months later and she said she sold it (great ac shop location) I said I would’ve been interested why didn’t you call me, she said I thought you just wanted to rent,
Epoxy primed and painted (satin SS) the underside of the hood. It wasn’t clear to me if the black is supposed to go all the way to the edges or if the 1/4 inch lip around the edge (where the outer skin folds over the inner panel) is supposed to be body color.
Knowing how things were done at the time, I assumed the black went to the edge because it was easier.
Knowing how things were done at the time, I assumed the black went to the edge because it was easier.
By the chrome base, do you mean the top bezel? Here’s the shifter housing. It needs to be washed. Very dusty. Looks like it’s 9 inches front to back and about 3 7/8 wide
That’s what I needed, I won’t need the black plastic, if it’ll work out how much do you want? I forgot to ask is it ratcheting and will it work on a 4 spd ?
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I like that the chrome plate would sit flat or flush on the console looking more factory instead of the taller chrome of the Quick Silver but guess cant have everything lol, havent been able to test drive with the new Shiftworks cable yet but pretty sure the problems cured now
Im still wanting to give the QS a try just for the heck of it, if I like it to Ill switch back and forth every now and then
Putting the convertor wiring kit for the Lock Up function and now notice after looking at pics I should have ran the 12+ wire behind a hose but it was a real PITA getting the wire in through the firewall behind the evap unit so itll stay, cant get the car out cause of the Fn trailer to work under the dash since I cant open the doors all the way inside the garage but guess I could pull out far enough but itll block thru traffic, 2 Assholes dont make a Right lol, going to unplug from trans and flip wire over hose then recon
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To Kevin or anyone else who paints:
I painted the underside of my hood late Sunday night and want to flip it over and put some epoxy on the other side to fill in sanding scratches.
Do you think the paint (2 coats of epoxy and 3 coats of single stage black) had cured well enough that I can put it on a stand without leaving marks/impressions in the paint?
Also should I let the paint off gas longer before gluing in the under hood insulation?
Thanks
I painted the underside of my hood late Sunday night and want to flip it over and put some epoxy on the other side to fill in sanding scratches.
Do you think the paint (2 coats of epoxy and 3 coats of single stage black) had cured well enough that I can put it on a stand without leaving marks/impressions in the paint?
Also should I let the paint off gas longer before gluing in the under hood insulation?
Thanks
kmakar
Janitor
If there was hardener in the epoxy and paint, you're good. If not make sure you have foam bumpers and minimize contact points as much as possible.
If you used a fast reducer you can put the insulation in now, if not, wait a couple more days.
I sprayed some SPI epoxy last night. It was the remnants of a gallon that was about 2 years old. I had also bought a quart of new stuff that I opened thinking I’d need to use some but I didn’t. After stirring them both up thoroughly, the old stuff was WAY thinner than the new can. Also the activator seems to have darkened to the color of dark ice tea. So instead of being white, the color of the sprayable epoxy was cream color or antique white. Not a problem. I’m just using it to cover some bare metal and as a high build. SPI is good that way in that it sands nicely unlike other epoxies so it’s advertised as being an acceptable high build.
Despite the fan boys claiming it’s the best thing since sliced bread I’ve seen on message boards that SPI epoxy has a reputation of being prone to fish eyeing I think due to putting it on too heavy for the first coat. Unfortunately I got some of that I think and the primer has more texture than I wanted so I’ll have to wear our my arm sanding it flat. But this should be the last before I spray sealer and color.
Sprayed the hood, cowl vent and what I think is called the front valance.
Despite the fan boys claiming it’s the best thing since sliced bread I’ve seen on message boards that SPI epoxy has a reputation of being prone to fish eyeing I think due to putting it on too heavy for the first coat. Unfortunately I got some of that I think and the primer has more texture than I wanted so I’ll have to wear our my arm sanding it flat. But this should be the last before I spray sealer and color.
Sprayed the hood, cowl vent and what I think is called the front valance.
SPI is a high quality epoxy but since it's high viscosity it has it's downside also. On flat or broad panels it's perfect but intricate stuff like that cowl grate, I thin it down so it sprays more like a sealer. Also, your polyester filler needs to be sanded down to 220 to eliminate any chance of "ghost" scratches showing through the finish. A good dry guide coat is perfect to make sure your sand scratches are out. Shooting high solids epoxy over 80 grit crevices can bite you later. Theory is, unless you clean all those scratches out, the pumice that's trapped will let the epoxy or any coating you spray over it "bridge" that scratch. Nice thing about SPI epoxy is it sands as good as anything on the market.
...........also, I use a good brush along with compressed air to clean the filler or any substrate before applying epoxy, or whatever, then a good wipedown with W&G remover.
Thanks for your thoughts. I used 80 grit to cut the prior fillers, primers, but finished with 220 and even a bit of 400. There are definitely some remnant scratches of the 80 grit but I put on 3 coats of the SPI so I think there’s enough material to fill the scratches.
I usually thin my epoxy too but what was left in this can seemed awfully thin so I didn’t want it to be too thin. My experience is the end of the can is usually thicker because of solvent evaporation and because if you didn’t stir well enough there are more solids on the bottom.
Pretty sure I had it good and clean. I almost always wore gloves when touching it. I washed with water after my last sanding and wiped down with glass cleaner before spraying. I also gave it a little rub with scotch brite pad to knock loose and dust in the scratches and used compressed air.
I usually thin my epoxy too but what was left in this can seemed awfully thin so I didn’t want it to be too thin. My experience is the end of the can is usually thicker because of solvent evaporation and because if you didn’t stir well enough there are more solids on the bottom.
Pretty sure I had it good and clean. I almost always wore gloves when touching it. I washed with water after my last sanding and wiped down with glass cleaner before spraying. I also gave it a little rub with scotch brite pad to knock loose and dust in the scratches and used compressed air.
Good technique John. I use water also, then a w&g wipe. It's rare to hear someone using water, and I think it's a stigma but it's cheap and does a near perfect job of cleaning the pumice.