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'68 Caprice Running Hot At Low Speeds

SSuperDave

Veteran Member
Senior Member
Thanks to the efforts of the late Dutch Max on the OCS, I thought I had the cooling systen issues resolved. My Caprice has a stock spec 327 engine, and has always run hot at low speeds. I added an aluminum radiator with two 1.25" tube rows, have always had a factory shroud that is sealed all the way around. The original clutch fan was a 15" and inside the shroud, so I added a 17" with a heavy duty Hayden clutch, and its a short shaft clutch to bring the fan back towards the engine so that the blades are half in and half out, and the water pump is recent. Under normal circumstances, it runs about 1/3 on the factory gauge. If I'm in traffic with the a/c on and its hot like it normally is here, the gauge creeps up to 3/4-7/8 and the ac function drops. As soon as I start moving, the temps drop. I'm really not looking to change any of the above items, because here's where it gets weird.

At no time does the fan clutch ever engage, even at its hottest, it won't pull a piece of paper against the condenser. I tried a clutch that I had that put the fan closer to the radiator with no luck, and another brand new Hayden and none of these three ever engage. As hot as its running, it should be roaring like mad. I thoght perhaps the clutch was too far from the radiator to get hot, but then I remembered that Monte Carlos and Grand Prix's have very long shrouds and those clutches engage just fine. I tought it may be unique to aluminum radiators, but lots of vehicles use them with a clutch fan, so I doubt thats it. I also don't think that I got three bad clutches, give that they were acquired at different times form different sources. Any idea as to what's happening here?

My next step woud be to go to a flex fan with the correct sized spacer, but that seems like a crutch to me. I'd rather not, but proper cooling is more important to me that the noise and loss of mpg from a flex fan.
 
I have no issues with my 350s running hot, definitely clutch fan issue. Have you tried a different manufacture, even a cheap big box store one?
 
The firs new one was a new Hayden from O'Reilly's a year ago. The second one was an almost new one of indeterminite origin that I had "in stock", and the third new one was a Hayden from Amazon a few weeks ago.
 
Common problem I've had is block corrosion and sediment. This will restrict waterflow in areas and create hot spots, which will show up at low speeds. If you get a good fan clutch and this persists, pop a block drain plug out and observe the drain rate. I've had them out and the water/sludge is completely clogged, or dripping rather than free flow. Low use and not thorougly flushing your system will let these problems creep up on you.
 
Common problem I've had is block corrosion and sediment. This will restrict waterflow in areas and create hot spots, which will show up at low speeds. If you get a good fan clutch and this persists, pop a block drain plug out and observe the drain rate. I've had them out and the water/sludge is completely clogged, or dripping rather than free flow. Low use and not thorougly flushing your system will let these problems creep up on you.
I use distilled water in a 50/50 mix, it helps with stopping corrosion.

If the clutch fan is not engaging when hot the internal mechanism is faulty. Have you thought about wiring in an electric fan in front of the condenser?
 
I can see the termostat opening by watching the gauge, and flow thu the radiator is good. Part of what Dutch walked me thru last year was taking temp readings at varying points on the cooling system to verify proper flow. The cooling system has been flushed, the engine has 10K miles on a quality build that did include hot tanking, so I don't suspect sediment. But why won't the damn fan clutches engage? I can't conceive of three bad ones.

If I go to a non clutched fan, is a flex blade or rigid blade better? I just want air flow, noise and mpg be damned!
 
You know, I've heard that saying since I was a kid, but at no time when I've been shitting, have I ever giggled... :)
 
How's your timing curve & vac. advance?
BTW my 327 in my 67 runs 180 till I sit & idle but it has no shroud & has a stock 4 blade fan.
 
12 degrees initial, 36 total and runs great on 87 octane. Advance hooked up and working correctly. All 3 of the clutches have a small amount of resistance when turned by hand, hot or cold.
 
What temp is the tstat? Here in Florida I run 160 even though the spec is 180 and it runs between 175 and 185 even when idling.
 
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