What's new
Old Chevelles

Welcome to OldChevelles.com, built by Auto Enthusiasts for Auto Enthusiasts. Cars are not our only interests so please feel free to post about any subject the community might enjoy or you just feel you need to air.

We respect free speech and constructive dialogue however we don't allow threatening talk against members, nudity, or pornography. Threads are monitored and trolls are not tolerated.

This site is completely free and there are no costs. Please enjoy and provide feedback.
  • We've enabled the website app for anyone who wants to use it on a mobile or desktop device.

  • We've changed the header logo to display our Member's Cars.

    If you'd like your car to show up there, go to the forum Site Bugs & Feature Requests and post your image in the "Member's Car Pictures for the Header Logo" and we'll add your car into the lineup.

489 BBC Build Thread

Hey, stop copying me, LOL
View attachment 14249
Hey Beth I wasn’t sure where to post this and you might already know but wanted to let you know before I forgot, they make a manual valve body kit for the E series of transmissions so no need for electronic shift controllers but does take away the Auto trans part, as much as I drive mine I’m OK with that 🙂
 
Hey Beth I wasn’t sure where to post this and you might already know but wanted to let you know before I forgot, they make a manual valve body kit for the E series of transmissions so no need for electronic shift controllers but does take away the Auto trans part, as much as I drive mine I’m OK with that 🙂
I have a controller for the 4L80e in my Camaro. The Chevelle's a 5 speed TKX - .68 OD with 3:73's. (y)
My block has now been waiting 6 weeks in the machine shop for the torque-plate hone :mad:
 
It's been 2 months since I dropped the engine block off at the shop. Called them today to check on it.

He said that they had just pulled the paperwork on it and it would be done this week. :p

Finally !
 
So you'll have it by Thanksgiving.
After 10 weeks in the machine shop, the beast is home ! 🥳 Picked it up today and it only took 3 hours
to get it out of the car and on the engine stand ! LOL
Piston clearance is supposed to be 3.5 to 4.5 ; it's right at .0045". I checked it with a piston and .004" feeler gauge.
I bet this will have some piston slap when it starts up, but only for a few seconds.

1697754464389.png

1697754505049.png
 
After 10 weeks in the machine shop, the beast is home ! 🥳 Picked it up today and it only took 3 hours
to get it out of the car and on the engine stand ! LOL
Piston clearance is supposed to be 3.5 to 4.5 ; it's right at .0045". I checked it with a piston and .004" feeler gauge.
I bet this will have some piston slap when it starts up, but only for a few seconds.

View attachment 15537

View attachment 15538
It wont have any slap because thats pretty much the same as mine, IIRC 3.5 at the top and 4 or 4.5 at the skirt
 
I got called away on Furry Kid Duty for a few minutes but I have different pistons but still from Mike, I dont remember if theyre Autotec or Racetec but 1 is better for street use and uses a different forged alum, IIRC I have Autotec but the stickers (😆) that came in the box that are on my toolbox say Racetec so might want to check what alum your forged pistons are made of, If I remember right it was just on Cold start that youd hear any rattle
 
I got called away on Furry Kid Duty for a few minutes but I have different pistons but still from Mike, I dont remember if theyre Autotec or Racetec but 1 is better for street use and uses a different forged alum, IIRC I have Autotec but the stickers (😆) that came in the box that are on my toolbox say Racetec so might want to check what alum your forged pistons are made of, If I remember right it was just on Cold start that youd hear any rattle
I investigated and found that ours are 4032 aluminum which is better for street/strip use. 2618 is a little stronger and used for continuous racing


These are my SRP pistons
 
I remember a few HiPo engines having some rattle on cold start back in the 70’s and was told it was Forged pistons, guess then there was only 1 type alum to to use? nice we have options now 🙂👍
 
Started to assemble the rods and pistons and install the rings yesterday.
Got everying organized and put the first ring in a cylinder, squared it up and there was no gap !
The ring was almost locked in the cylinder !
So I noticed the Total Seal part # stamped on it (TS 4.285). The bore is 4.280
When I went to Summit looking for ring part numbers, the sizes listed 4.280 and 4.285.
The light bulb in my brain finally registered, they sent the wrong size rings !
So I ordered new ones last night. I could make these work, but would have to file over .020" off every damn one of them. No thanks !
This rotating assembly was bought almost 10 years ago from Mike Lewis so I don't think I'll be returning them ! LOL
It wasn't Mike's fault; he just placed the order for me.
 
Started to assemble the rods and pistons and install the rings yesterday.
Got everying organized and put the first ring in a cylinder, squared it up and there was no gap !
The ring was almost locked in the cylinder !
So I noticed the Total Seal part # stamped on it (TS 4.285). The bore is 4.280
When I went to Summit looking for ring part numbers, the sizes listed 4.280 and 4.285.
The light bulb in my brain finally registered, they sent the wrong size rings !
So I ordered new ones last night. I could make these work, but would have to file over .020" off every damn one of them. No thanks !
This rotating assembly was bought almost 10 years ago from Mike Lewis so I don't think I'll be returning them ! LOL
It wasn't Mike's fault; he just placed the order for me.
I use to file fit rings but only 2 cylinders per engine for MC’s, a really long time ago I did a cpl V8’s filing each ring by hand but wouldn’t want to do that again unless you have a ring filer
 
Top Bottom