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What’d you work on today?

Last Sat I did a repair call for a Dr from Brownsville Tx that owns property in Gulfport, been working for him over 5-6 yrs, this was a 1988 air handler and 2014 ac unit, heater kit had been “Reworked” lol and shorted out melting wires, I gave him what I thought was a High price because I really didn’t want to repair it and be liable, $1,500+ OR put a new system in, he said he might sell it so I said No worries about knocking a price down for a new system (Usually starts at $5 for disco) I had to put it up 1 block high for flood zone, this is at a mental health counseling place in Gulfport Fl, I’m a little concerned about what the inspector might say about the Bootlegged outdoor shower4292F28A-DE5A-47BA-BDDD-53A7293D8807.jpeg
 

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Last Sat I did a repair call for a Dr from Brownsville Tx that owns property in Gulfport, been working for him over 5-6 yrs, this was a 1988 air handler and 2014 ac unit, heater kit had been “Reworked” lol and shorted out melting wires, I gave him what I thought was a High price because I really didn’t want to repair it and be liable, $1,500+ OR put a new system in, he said he might sell it so I said No worries about knocking a price down for a new system (Usually starts at $5 for disco) I had to put it up 1 block high for flood zone, this is at a mental health counseling place in Gulfport Fl, I’m a little concerned about what the inspector might say about the Bootlegged outdoor showerView attachment 17927
It fried its nuts on Hollywood Blvd.
 
Went back to yesterdays job and put a P trap on drain and changed a Square D dbl pole 30 amp breaker to 20 amp, $42+ 😳
 

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Look at this mess, it’s the backside of the breaker panel I changed a breaker in today, made me a little worried while I was working on it, “Please don’t fall off till I’m done Please Please 🤞🤞😆
 

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How is the fuse panel the backside of the meter box? I don't know codes, but that's just not common sense smart. Each should be their own contained unit, the outside meter box being weather tight and mounted so it can remain that way. Then the feed is passed between them.
 
How is the fuse panel the backside of the meter box? I don't know codes, but that's just not common sense smart. Each should be their own contained unit, the outside meter box being weather tight and mounted so it can remain that way. Then the feed is passed between them.
The way it was built would be code approved if it was attached to studs in the wall, I think whoever installed this service only screwed it into the wood siding, that’s my guess anyway and will have no bearing on my ac inspection, I’m more worried about the inspector, Which is a really nice and smart guy that’s never had a problem with my work, asking me about the Bootlegged shower 😳 then I’ll get the Sgt Shultz thing….I know Nothing!!😳 lol 🤣 I also told the owner to pad lock that door
 

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The transmission shop called me today. I had it towed to a guy they use for R&R, then he took the transmission to them. They were trying to say that it was a converter mis-stab, as the pump gear was destroyed, and it cracked the case. I told him that I always make sure that it is all the way into the pump before I install the transmission (I definitely had to pull it out to make contact with the flex plate, so it was in all the way to begin with). They used a different case, and got it all put back together. The R&R guy should have received it earlier this afternoon, so with a little luck, I will have it back tomorrow (they are going to have it towed back to my house, as I have no way to go pick it up - 37 miles one way).

I truly hope that it does not have to come out again for a very long time. As long as the R&R guy does his job correctly, and makes sure that the cooler are properly flushed, things should be good. Now I just have to install the new slap shifter detent.
 
The transmission shop called me today. I had it towed to a guy they use for R&R, then he took the transmission to them. They were trying to say that it was a converter mis-stab, as the pump gear was destroyed, and it cracked the case. I told him that I always make sure that it is all the way into the pump before I install the transmission (I definitely had to pull it out to make contact with the flex plate, so it was in all the way to begin with). They used a different case, and got it all put back together. The R&R guy should have received it earlier this afternoon, so with a little luck, I will have it back tomorrow (they are going to have it towed back to my house, as I have no way to go pick it up - 37 miles one way).

I truly hope that it does not have to come out again for a very long time. As long as the R&R guy does his job correctly, and makes sure that the cooler are properly flushed, things should be good. Now I just have to install the new slap shifter detent.

Is the R&R guys going to test the trans, or they don't have the driveshaft?
 
More red Lotus work.
Prepared both trailing arms for the electrolysis bath to remove any inside rust.
They are actually very good but I will remove all rust spots before repainting inside and out.
I cut a couple of pieces of steel rod, then cut squares of plastic to go around them so that the steel will not contact the arms.
An electrolysis bath works best with a direct path from the piece being de-rusted to the anode.
With the prep done tonight I will get them cooking in the morning.
Battery charger for the power source.
 
Is the R&R guys going to test the trans, or they don't have the driveshaft?

He has everything, as I had the car towed to him complete. I am sure he will do a short test drive. Once I get it back, I will take it out nicely for a mile or two, then jump on it.
 
He has everything, as I had the car towed to him complete. I am sure he will do a short test drive. Once I get it back, I will take it out nicely for a mile or two, then jump on it.

After your test drive, check the trans fluid to make sure it isn't burnt (smell the dipstick).
 
More red Lotus work.
Prepared both trailing arms for the electrolysis bath to remove any inside rust.
They are actually very good but I will remove all rust spots before repainting inside and out.
I cut a couple of pieces of steel rod, then cut squares of plastic to go around them so that the steel will not contact the arms.
An electrolysis bath works best with a direct path from the piece being de-rusted to the anode.
With the prep done tonight I will get them cooking in the morning.
Battery charger for the power source.
I’d love to hear more about this. I’ve been thinking of doing this to my C10’s gas tank. It’s still sound but a bit scaly looking inside when I swapped the fuel gauge sending unit.
I was going to put 2-3 lengths of rebar through the top opening with rubber caps on the tip and some other plastic to insulate the rebar where it goes through the opening.

I no longer have an old style battery charger but I converted an old PC power supply. I think it puts out 5v.
 
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